|
|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Re: [sungam] More on the Suicide Rock Accident (100-ft fall, total anchor failure) - 8/31/08:
Edit Log
|
|
billl7
Sep 13, 2008, 3:56 AM
Views: 6648
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
|
Anything that introduces rope into the system would raise the fall factor - good point, Sungam. (much later edit: the OP later points out that this does not apply when the non-slack-fall-factor is already greater than 1; in such cases, adding slack reduces the fall factor towards 1; however, this is not the case based on currently available information on this accident)
I've taken around 10 lead falls. On a couple there was more slack in the system than I expected, once because I misguided my belayer on the amount of slack I wanted and once because the rope sagged through some horizontal stretches. Both times I lifted my belayer. Both times the distance from the belayer to the highest piece was 20 feet and greater. Both times I was around 5 feet above my highest piece.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Sep 14, 2008, 4:37 PM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by billl7
() on Sep 13, 2008, 3:57 AM
|
|
Post edited by billl7
() on Sep 14, 2008, 4:35 PM
|
|
Post edited by billl7
() on Sep 14, 2008, 4:37 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
