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philfell
May 25, 2005, 2:15 AM
Post #76 of 188
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In reply to: my question to you is this ? in which Country USA or EC, UIAA or some no name brand made in china?
What is this supposed to mean???? I've read it many times, I still have no idea.
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 2:18 AM
Post #77 of 188
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Thing are flying on line from Eastern Europe on ebay some killer deal on cams and biners, rope from Russia and list goes on for stuff with low KN or missing TAG, do most climber pay attention to this, I know what kind of tag my junk got on them and what their ratings are, you guys keep looking and talking about the same thing a BROKEN PC.....what caused this PC to fail, this is what I am interesting on so we can educated others to watch for. agree or not ? we do not need to push each other down , you bet your life that i want to know why things fail , it is in my system , sorry lost control for not having that beer.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 2:19 AM
Post #78 of 188
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In reply to: You got any cold Corona ? I have stuff from every where, Europe, USA and so on and every one of them have a different rating, you should say; all BD sewn slings sold today are rated to 22kn where is my corona ?
haven't you had enough already..???
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jcpace
May 25, 2005, 2:20 AM
Post #79 of 188
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I think we're all confused, except for me. Why don't all you guys/gals go piss in the wind; you'll feel much better about all of this. So why don't we go ahead and say what we know is the truth: the QD was cut on purpose in order to get a bunch of money from BD... kinda like that finger in the chili bowl at Wendy's.
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 2:22 AM
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HEY I EAT AT THAT FR*****KING PLACE the day before and I pass by it every day, its JAMMMMMMMED
OK NO MORE POSTING..NO MORE ACCIDENT POSTING FOR ME..you guys need to leave me alone so I could go home and pack my stuff for this trip some 14000 miles away next monday, what do I got my bags !!....2 sets of rope each 43 lbs, just to start...see you all and be safe by the way I will be on 28.8K modem so I will not list anything till I return.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 2:23 AM
Post #81 of 188
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In reply to: ....guys keep looking and talking about the same thing a BROKEN PC.....what caused this PC to fail, this is what I am interesting on so we can educated others to watch for. agree or not ?
Sometimes it is due to a hard drive failure, software incompatibility issues or maybe a virus attack. There's one out now called the "corona worm". It is most infectous tranmitted via email and posts on rc.com.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 2:23 AM
Post #82 of 188
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In reply to: Thing are flying on line from Eastern Europe on ebay some killer deal on cams and biners, rope from Russia and list goes on for stuff with low KN or missing TAG, do most climber pay attention to this, I know what kind of tag my junk got on them and what their ratings are, you guys keep looking and talking about the same thing a BROKEN PC.....what caused this PC to fail, this is what I am interesting on so we can educated others to watch for. agree or not ? we do not need to push each other down , you bet your life that i want to know why things fail , it is in my system , sorry lost control for not having that beer.
you're a dumbshit. this is not some shady piece of equipment we're talking about. It's a Black Diamond Quickdraw, which, if you hadn't noticed already, is about as reliable as they come.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=54619
look at the picture- the certification tag is right there, it says 22kn. (also note where the draw failed- not at the webbing, which is something you said earlier...)
edit- i also clarified my answer to your question, majid, check page 5 for my response.
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treez
May 25, 2005, 2:29 AM
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Do we have to wait till next weekend for the bolt pics? That's gotta be one really sharp edge. I keep wondering if a photo of you with one of those fake guns with the "gotcha" flag sticking out of the end will show up instead of a bolt.
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 2:41 AM
Post #84 of 188
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FYI First thing I saw was BD , HEEELLLOOOOOOOO , there is this killer deal on ebay have you seen it ? 10.2 rope USED only few times , no MAJOR FALL , current price $66
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treez
May 25, 2005, 2:44 AM
Post #85 of 188
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Hand over your keys, Majid.
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 2:53 AM
Post #86 of 188
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Just read the next message
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 2:56 AM
Post #87 of 188
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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In reply to: Hand over your keys, Majid.
will somebody please show Majid where the computer "off" switch is ~ if he downloads anything in this condition - he's SURE to get that Corona Virus on his PC.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 2:57 AM
Post #88 of 188
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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...mod delete dup please -- I have no power here... 8^)
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 3:07 AM
Post #89 of 188
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In reply to: I SEE, 10 sets of rope , $4000 worth of expedition stuff, near $5000 worth of climbing gear , and god knows what else my whole life saving in one room is about to become history after I get married next week, she will sell every thing i got either on ebay which is painful, I have to see you rock rates buy my junk or she would leave it in the front of the house on some sunny sunday $1 garage sale special RIGHT...? WRONG that will never happens , between her and the junk...it is going to be hard but i have to go with JUNKYARD.
if you buy anything off of ebay, its buyer beware. as a general rule, you should never buy anything made of nylon or spectra second hand (especially a rope). buy those new. metal stuff is okay, subject to inspection.
also, considering we're putting our lives on this equipment, it does not bother me in the least to pay good money for brand new equipment. my life is worth more than my rack....
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korntera
May 25, 2005, 3:56 AM
Post #90 of 188
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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Uh Oh... I have the same black diamond QD's.... Glad to hear your were ok.
-Travis
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omerdimsum
May 25, 2005, 4:54 AM
Post #91 of 188
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Hey J,
Glad you're ok.
Second-to-last time we (ice) climbed, you pulled down an ice block and tree root...Now a shredded quick draw? Looks like you've met your accident quota for a long time to come!
When are we heading to Red Rocks or Yosemite? Let me know.
PS -
For the wanker, Peanut Gallery out there -- this climber is a stand-up guy. You should be thankful he is sharing this event with your punk @sses (and the rest of the climbing community).
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blakester
May 25, 2005, 5:50 AM
Post #92 of 188
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Registered: Dec 20, 2004
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Any chance that the carabiner which as inside that loop of webbing on the QD at the time had a nick/cut/burr on it that would tear at the draw from the inside?
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jcpace
May 25, 2005, 7:20 AM
Post #93 of 188
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Registered: Jun 24, 2003
Posts: 155
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We should check the bolt hangar for microfractures and subatomic radiation damage.
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jbell2355
May 25, 2005, 3:42 PM
Post #94 of 188
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Registered: Apr 23, 2004
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In reply to: Any chance that the carabiner which as inside that loop of webbing on the QD at the time had a nick/cut/burr on it that would tear at the draw from the inside?
No. The QD failure was certainly caused by abrading on a sharp edge.
In reply to: Hey J, Glad you're ok. Second-to-last time we (ice) climbed, you pulled down an ice block and tree root...Now a shredded quick draw? Looks like you've met your accident quota for a long time to come! When are we heading to Red Rocks or Yosemite? Let me know. PS - For the wanker, Peanut Gallery out there -- this climber is a stand-up guy. You should be thankful he is sharing this event with your punk @sses (and the rest of the climbing community).
John, nice to hear from you...thanks for setting the record straight on my character! :D
I'm game for Yos or RR anytime!!
In reply to: edited to add: the post below has some good points.....hrm.
tradguy-I won't respond to alpnclmbr1 because he is such a jerk-off and isn't man enough to disclose his true identity. Why waste the time? However, I have no probs with you and will address the points he made that you seem to buy.
When I said I was to the right of the bolt, I did not mean to indicate that I had traversed. My bellybutton was approximately 1 1/2 to 2 feet to the right of the first bolt; by no means a travere. I was far enough to the right of the bolt to cause the draw to be lifted from a into a position that was on the same plane as the rock (the entire draw was touching the rock, the rope end was out to the right of the bolt) and parralel to the ground.
Since when does decking necessarily include falling on your belayer? My belayer was approximately 10 feet back from the base of the wall. My ass hit the ground about 1 foot from the base of the wall. What is the point of this argument?
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jbell2355
May 25, 2005, 3:45 PM
Post #95 of 188
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Oh yeah, one other thing. Is alpnclmbr1 suggesting that in order to deck you must first smash into the rock? I guess I didn't know that was a prerequisite. Next time I deck, I'll make sure to smash into the rock.
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 4:12 PM
Post #96 of 188
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actually, i'm thinking that in order for the rock to slice that draw, you would have had to actually weight the draw and placed it under tension during the fall.
so, my thought is, how come you didnt? in other words, alpnclmbr's thinking- if you fell, you should have had to weight that draw long enough for it to cut through, which should have caused some change in your falling pattern at the least.
i don't doubt the draw snapped, the proof is in the picture, so to speak. my concern is perhaps the draws condition was suspect before the climb or there was some other factor in there somewhere.
anyway, those are my thoughts....
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 5:13 PM
Post #97 of 188
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Biner works as pulley in this case causing a 2-1 mechanical advantage on that webbing, I think sharp edge did not cut the webbing, tension from the rolling biner did it.( Pulley increased the force by 2x and rolling biner is the biner loose in the little gap inside the sling) also webbing is cut from sewn( The weakest part of the sling) most knots reduces the strength of the webbing or rope by 30% .
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jbell2355
May 25, 2005, 5:30 PM
Post #98 of 188
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In reply to: actually, i'm thinking that in order for the rock to slice that draw, you would have had to actually weight the draw and placed it under tension during the fall. so, my thought is, how come you didnt? in other words, alpnclmbr's thinking- if you fell, you should have had to weight that draw long enough for it to cut through, which should have caused some change in your falling pattern at the least. i don't doubt the draw snapped, the proof is in the picture, so to speak. my concern is perhaps the draws condition was suspect before the climb or there was some other factor in there somewhere. anyway, those are my thoughts....
Well, as alpnclmbr1 said, I was about 5 feet above the first bolt which was 10 feet off the deck. When I fell and got to the point that I was 5 feet off the ground, the rope and draw were weighted. During the next 6 inches (or so) of falling, the draw was being dragged across the sharp edge. It was during this portion of the fall that the draw was severed. I previously mentioned that I was 1 1/2 to 2 feet to the right of the first bolt when I fell. It is very likely that the weighting of the draw caused me to swing approximately this distance back to the left, but in the fraction of a second I was falling I didn't happen to notice this effect. I don't see how it is relevant anyway.
Does this explanation help with your understanding at all? If not, what exactly are you saying should have happened that didn't happen? Also, my description of the fall in the original post didn't detail issues such as the amount of swing I experienced. Do you assume that because I didn't mention any deviation from a vertical flight path that I was inferring that I fell straight down? I don't have it on videotape, so I can't be sure of much more than I've already articualted. However, I will engage in a civilized discussion of the accident for the benefit of us all. Keep the questions coming.
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dingus
May 25, 2005, 5:33 PM
Post #99 of 188
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A pic of the edge that severed the draw would be most enlightening.
DMT
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jbell2355
May 25, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Dingus, I was hoping to get out to take photos today, but it looks like it will have to wait until this weekend. Don't worry though, the photos will be posted!
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