Well, as alpnclmbr1 said, I was about 5 feet above the first bolt which was 10 feet off the deck. When I fell and got to the point that I was 5 feet off the ground, the rope and draw were weighted. During the next 6 inches (or so) of falling, the draw was being dragged across the sharp edge. It was during this portion of the fall that the draw was severed. I previously mentioned that I was 1 1/2 to 2 feet to the right of the first bolt when I fell. It is very likely that the weighting of the draw caused me to swing approximately this distance back to the left, but in the fraction of a second I was falling I didn't happen to notice this effect. I don't see how it is relevant anyway.

Does this explanation help with your understanding at all? If not, what exactly are you saying should have happened that didn't happen? Also, my description of the fall in the original post didn't detail issues such as the amount of swing I experienced. Do you assume that because I didn't mention any deviation from a vertical flight path that I was inferring that I fell straight down? I don't have it on videotape, so I can't be sure of much more than I've already articualted. However, I will engage in a civilized discussion of the accident for the benefit of us all. Keep the questions coming.

I think sharp edge did not cut the webbing, tension from the rolling biner did it.

Biner works as pulley in this case causing a 2-1 mechanical advantage on that webbing

, I think sharp edge did not cut the webbing, tension from the rolling biner did it.( Pulley increased the force by 2x and rolling biner is the biner loose in the little gap inside the sling)

also webbing is cut from sewn( The weakest part of the sling) most knots reduces the strength of the webbing or rope by 30% .

Didn't your mother teach you the golden rule? If you don't have anything nice to say, shut your f'in' mouth!

Mr .Vegas with all respect, I am not going to argue with you or any one else, the only time I will do that is when I found out that you are either in the same level of skill and knowledge with me or higher.

Biner works as pulley in this case causing a 2-1 mechanical advantage on that webbing, I think sharp edge did not cut the webbing, tension from the rolling biner did it.( Pulley increased the force by 2x and rolling biner is the biner loose in the little gap inside the sling) also webbing is cut from sewn( The weakest part of the sling) most knots reduces the strength of the webbing or rope by 30% .

alpnclmbr1- Does the fact that you haven't heard of this happening mean that it can't happen? What is your problem? Just relax...quit trying to discredit me.

Am I the only person who carries different length draws to make sure the biners don't hit the rock poorly? If it had been a longer or shorter draw it may not have rubbed so poorly under a fall.

I agree. alpnclmbr1, you're an ass.

I lost one of my BD neutrino quickdraws at JTree this past weekend (5/06/05) and am wondering if anyone picked it up. I am not quite sure where and when it was lost, but i was at Headstone, Saddle rock, lenticular dome, and n. astro dome. if you have found it, you can PM me or write me at joshpace@gmail.com. thanks.

I agree. alpnclmbr1, you're an ass.

I lost one of my BD neutrino quickdraws at JTree this past weekend (5/06/05) and am wondering if anyone picked it up. I am not quite sure where and when it was lost, but i was at Headstone, Saddle rock, lenticular dome, and n. astro dome. if you have found it, you can PM me or write me at joshpace@gmail.com. thanks.

I guess everyone missed the fact that when you fall on a single bolt on less then vertical slab, the draw will not even touch the rock in a fall.

The only times that a draw drags on the rock with force is with a bolt on a less then vertical section following an undercut overhanging section. (this is usually how old project draws break)

The other time the draw drags on the rock is when someone takes a greater than 15 foot ride on a sustained slab.

That is better than being an idiot.

I am surprised that no one has mentioned that this has never happened before.
Also, as far as I know, it has never even come close to happening. Ie. I have never seen or even heard of a functional draw damaged in this manner.

Any time you take a soft gear such as webbing, rope, sling etc and you bend a loop, that loop itself becomes the weakest part of that system or webbing etc. Now once you use either a sewn or use a knot to attach the loop, the attachment becomes the weakest part however every thing else contributes to the weakness of the system. Using a biner in between webbing creates a mechanical advantage meaning the force or the weight of the object is divided equally to both sides therefore you can pull the object easier but here we are not pulling the object since our object is a dead bolt in some rock, if your webbing is rated at 2000 lbs with a loop now you have 4000 lbs strength in that system without the sewn or knot, once you have any sewn or knot, the strength reduces by some # near 30% +-.

during leader fall, this tension is slowly transferred from the biner to the sling until the material starts to pull and then you will have a snap (in most cases they brake from the knot or sewn or near it), I have not seen one that brakes from the middle and if you have any info on seen one webbing that snapped from the center without any cut or damages cause by sharp edges let me know.

If there is a full tension on the sling and you bring any sharp objects to this picture, it will snap and we all know that, so let’s turn that sling around and examine the cut. I still think that sling got snapped by tension not from a sharp edge.

Any time you take a soft gear such as webbing, rope, sling etc and you bend a loop, that loop itself becomes the weakest part of that system or webbing etc. Now once you use either a sewn or use a knot to attach the loop, the attachment becomes the weakest part however every thing else contributes to the weakness of the system. Using a biner in between webbing creates a mechanical advantage meaning the force or the weight of the object is divided equally to both sides therefore you can pull the object easier but here we are not pulling the object since our object is a dead bolt in some rock, if your webbing is rated at 2000 lbs with a loop now you have 4000 lbs strength in that system without the sewn or knot, once you have any sewn or knot, the strength reduces by some # near 30% +-.

during leader fall, this tension is slowly transferred from the biner to the sling until the material starts to pull and then you will have a snap (in most cases they brake from the knot or sewn or near it), I have not seen one that brakes from the middle and if you have any info on seen one webbing that snapped from the center without any cut or damages cause by sharp edges let me know.

If there is a full tension on the sling and you bring any sharp objects to this picture, it will snap and we all know that, so let’s turn that sling around and examine the cut. I still think that sling got snapped by tension not from a sharp edge.

Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it,