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roy_hinkley_jr
Sep 27, 2005, 6:45 PM
Post #176 of 179
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Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652
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Not sure why everyone is ragging on Majid since his statements on this accident is absolutely correct even if they aren't PC enough for some uber-sensitive types. The news report is indeed relevant considering it also was about as much about a "climbing" accident as the original topic. Neither are less relevant to rock climbing than slackling. If the OP is offended, they shouldn't read the thread. It's more offensive that all of Majid's posts are censored (not visible unless you sign in) for no reason.
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anson
Sep 27, 2005, 7:08 PM
Post #177 of 179
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Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 658
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In reply to: It's more offensive that all of Majid's posts are censored (not visible unless you sign in) for no reason.
You are incorrect; of course there's a reason. When you're not signed in, the crapfilter is on by default, and majid satisfies some of the criteria the crapfilter uses, so his posts don't make the cut when it's on. Thus, his supposed 'censorship'. I remain logged in at all times, so I don't interact with anonymous browsing features much, but I'm pretty sure that an anonymous browser can adjust the crapfilter to see majid's posts if they so desire.
-aB
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billcoe_
Oct 6, 2005, 5:16 AM
Post #178 of 179
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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In reply to: .......................................... bringing this up to the top of the heap once in a while might not be a bad thing if even 1 climber sees it and either retires a figure 8, or carefully checks it for cross loading before pitching off the edge. Wishing you and yours well, and thank you again: Bill
Wow, as if on cue, lots of people still ignorant of the crossloading feature a figure 8 can create. This was posted on RC.COM yesterday!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/98627
billit_proof asked" I use figure 8's to rappel, but i see some of you don't like them, could you be so kind as to entertain me: why?"
Next 6 posts, all from RC.COM members incorrectly explaining why a figure 8 has fallen out of favor-in order are:
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"My personal exp. with 8's is that they tend to twist the rope. I also found that the stopping power is limited in comparison to in-line(friction) belay devices, plus just look at the size and weight of the thing."
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"With an ATC you can belay and rappel..although maybe you can belay with a figure 8, I dunno."
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"They twist the hell out of ropes, and they're heavy. As was said before."
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"maybe you can belay with a figure 8, I dunno."
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"Stick a bight thru the small hole of the figure 8, clip this loop thru a biner on your harness belay loop. You've got yourself a belay device. The figure 8 itself is not actually tied in and can creep if the belay is slack or it can be sticky on initial lowering.
BD style belay device give easier and smoother belays than a figure 8 but there are still some high angle applications for the figure 8 that keep it around. It's good to know how to rig one though I currently do not own one"
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I'm not making this up, click the link, it's surprising that so many have not heard the potential dangers of an 8 yet. I'm OK with somebody using one, I use one sometimes, I know other who regularly climb with them as well, but people should be aware and informed of this life threatening issue.
Bill
edited to make my post a little clearer via use of bold letters.
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papounet
Oct 6, 2005, 11:49 AM
Post #179 of 179
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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The crossloading issue of a fig-8 breaking open a biner has been identified as the root cause in various accidents since 1995. this issue been investigated by the UIAA. search for its magazine edition 2000 3rd quarter.
http://www.uiaa.ch/...20with%20figure8.pdf
climbers interested in safety could do worse than reading all articles at http://www.uiaa.ch/?c=312
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