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Maddhatter
Sep 13, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Say I was going to open a new wall there are 2 unclimbed lines left to be done.
1- A sick over hanging line with good holds it will go but it will be solid 5.12/13. You can do it but you know it might be years before it get's done again.
2- A easy looking line in a sweet corner. Maybe 5.9 at the hardest but you know a lot of climbers will do the line over and over. A true 3 to 5 star line.
You can only do 1 and the other will be done by some other climber.
Let's just leave the whole bolting thing out of this and let's say there both trad lines with great pro. Would you go for the harder line or the better but easier line and why?
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raingod
Sep 13, 2008, 5:54 AM
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Whichever line looks the most fun for the obvious reasons
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vegastradguy
Sep 13, 2008, 6:12 AM
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only have time for 1? what, is this like a gotta open it up by 10am kind of thing?
do 'em both the same day if they're gear lines- if you can climb at the 5.13 level, the 5.9 wont exactly eat up a bunch of time in your day, now will it?
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deane
Sep 13, 2008, 2:16 PM
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I would do the the 5.12/13 and then pat myself on the back and buy myself a beer because apparently I can climb really hard trad.
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granite_grrl
Sep 13, 2008, 3:14 PM
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The classic line, dude...but that would never be one of the lines left to do, who wouldn't gobble up a beautiful 5.9 dihedral as soon as they put eyes on it?
Its far more likely the lines that would be left would be the chossy 5.4 chimney and the project route (and if you're worried, don't forget to red tag that bitch!).
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i_h8_choss
Sep 13, 2008, 3:27 PM
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neither, this thread sux
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hosh
Sep 13, 2008, 3:42 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: Say I was going to open a new wall there are 2 unclimbed lines left to be done. 1- A sick over hanging line with good holds it will go but it will be solid 5.12/13. You can do it but you know it might be years before it get's done again. 2- A easy looking line in a sweet corner. Maybe 5.9 at the hardest but you know a lot of climbers will do the line over and over. A true 3 to 5 star line. You can only do 1 and the other will be done by some other climber. Let's just leave the whole bolting thing out of this and let's say there both trad lines with great pro. Would you go for the harder line or the better but easier line and why?
I would do neither and start a hypothetical thread on RC.com about which I would rather do.
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stymingersfink
Sep 13, 2008, 4:01 PM
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hosh wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Say I was going to open a new wall there are 2 unclimbed lines left to be done. 1- A sick over hanging line with good holds it will go but it will be solid 5.12/13. You can do it but you know it might be years before it get's done again. 2- A easy looking line in a sweet corner. Maybe 5.9 at the hardest but you know a lot of climbers will do the line over and over. A true 3 to 5 star line. You can only do 1 and the other will be done by some other climber. Let's just leave the whole bolting thing out of this and let's say there both trad lines with great pro. Would you go for the harder line or the better but easier line and why? I would do neither and start a hypothetical thread on RC.com about which I would rather do.
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chossmonkey
Sep 13, 2008, 4:05 PM
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I'd rather just PC++ than come up with answers to silly questions.
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Maddhatter
Sep 13, 2008, 4:08 PM
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hosh wrote: Maddhatter wrote: Say I was going to open a new wall there are 2 unclimbed lines left to be done. 1- A sick over hanging line with good holds it will go but it will be solid 5.12/13. You can do it but you know it might be years before it get's done again. 2- A easy looking line in a sweet corner. Maybe 5.9 at the hardest but you know a lot of climbers will do the line over and over. A true 3 to 5 star line. You can only do 1 and the other will be done by some other climber. Let's just leave the whole bolting thing out of this and let's say there both trad lines with great pro. Would you go for the harder line or the better but easier line and why? I would do neither and start a hypothetical thread on RC.com about which I would rather do.
So are you saying you want to be just like me? LOL
It's just something to think about. I in no way mean to say one way or the other is wrong. Just asking.
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stymingersfink
Sep 13, 2008, 4:22 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: I'd rather just PC++ than come up with answers to silly questions.
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sungam
Sep 13, 2008, 5:07 PM
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I'd do the corner.
I'm guessing you mean you're in a group of 4, 2 on each route, you found the place so get first dibs.
and to chossy... tc++
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milesenoell
Sep 13, 2008, 8:22 PM
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Maddhatter wrote: Say I was going to open a new wall there are 2 unclimbed lines left to be done. 1- A sick over hanging line with good holds it will go but it will be solid 5.12/13. You can do it but you know it might be years before it get's done again. 2- A easy looking line in a sweet corner. Maybe 5.9 at the hardest but you know a lot of climbers will do the line over and over. A true 3 to 5 star line. You can only do 1 and the other will be done by some other climber. Let's just leave the whole bolting thing out of this and let's say there both trad lines with great pro. Would you go for the harder line or the better but easier line and why?
You just need to climb the 5.12/13, traverse and downclimb the 5.9 all in one.
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milesenoell
Sep 13, 2008, 8:24 PM
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But that still leaves you needing to clean gear, and you said it was a time crunch, so I guess you need to solo them to make it fast enough, but you should still do the traverse and downclimb unless you're a pussy.
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arrettinator
Sep 13, 2013, 4:20 PM
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5 years ago today:
stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I'd rather just PC++ than come up with answers to silly questions. ding! ding! ding!
PC++ for sty
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hyhuu
Sep 16, 2013, 2:07 PM
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Since I can't climb 5.12/13 trad, I'll do the 5.9 then claim that the 5.12/12 line isn't aesthetically worth climbing.
Conversely, if I can climb 5.12/13 trad, I'll do that line then claim the 5.9 isn't enough of a warm-up to be worth while.
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rocknice2
Sep 16, 2013, 3:58 PM
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I think you missed the purpose of the reply to a 5 year old thread.
RIP stymingersfink
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hyhuu
Sep 17, 2013, 3:49 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: I think you missed the purpose of the reply to a 5 year old thread. RIP stymingersfink
Doh! Hate when that happens.
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milesenoell
Sep 18, 2013, 2:16 AM
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Hard to believe it's been five years. I still vividly remember my shock at hearing that he'd had the heart attack. He was a vibrant member of the community here, and is certainly missed.
RIP sty.
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USnavy
Sep 19, 2013, 8:59 PM
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sungam wrote: I'd do the corner. I'm guessing you mean you're in a group of 4, 2 on each route, you found the place so get first dibs. and to chossy... tc++ 
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