Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Ring finger injury
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coolhand1


Dec 11, 2012, 5:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2012
Posts: 7

Ring finger injury
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About 6 weeks ago I was pulling hard on a two finger pocket and heard a dreaded pop. I dropped down and feared the worst. I still had full range of motion and the pain was pretty muted. I thought that thankfully I had probably avoided a pulley injury and that my injury was somewhat minor in the grand scheme. I figured I would take 2-3 weeks completely off and go from there.

I had some residual pain mostly in my palm below the ring finger and also in the forearm about 2 inches below the wrist. This pain actually worsened over the next couple of days. Anything that put pressure on the ring finger while it was extended and the other fingers clenched was very painful. Kind of like pulling on a pocket so that made sense.

I did some reading mostly on these forums and read some similar stories as mine. I think my injury is related to the flexor digitorum profundus or the musculotendinous junction.

After about a week the pain went away at rest. After about 2 weeks I stopped noticing the pain in everday life...opening car doors or the refrigerator (I have a habit of doing these types of things as if they were a pocket). I took another week off. At 3.5 weeks I climbed for the first time on all easy stuff just testing it out. I had occasional twinges but thought it went well. The following day I was pretty sore but it felt like a good sore, like a healing sore.

I have continued climbing and gradually ramping up the difficulty. Now present day, my strength is almost back entirely, however, I do still get occasional twinges.

I feel like I have been pretty smart in my recovery but I guess I am wondering about these twinges. Is it safe to continue climbing and when can I expect them to disappear entirely?

I appreciate any feedback and sorry for the long winded post.

 

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