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zozo
May 26, 2005, 3:05 AM
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Big ups to jt512
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jt512
May 26, 2005, 3:14 AM
Post #102 of 115
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In reply to: Big ups to jt512
Insulin, quick!
-Jay
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treez
May 26, 2005, 3:25 AM
Post #103 of 115
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Group hug!!!
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climbsomething
May 26, 2005, 3:35 AM
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In reply to: Big ups to jt512 |
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zozo
May 26, 2005, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: I thought zozo and his cute toilet kitten liked me :cry: :cry: ;)
Big ups to Climbsomething!
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pheenixx
May 26, 2005, 3:42 AM
Post #106 of 115
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In reply to: In reply to: I thought zozo and his cute toilet kitten liked me :cry: :cry: ;) Big ups to Climbsomething!
BIG ups to zozo and the toilet kitten...!!
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carrieruth
May 26, 2005, 3:45 AM
Post #107 of 115
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After ALL of that, you guys want a group hug?? :wink: It's gotta be just caus I'm a nice girl climber... I heard we were kinda rare.
~Carrie
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tisar
May 26, 2005, 11:35 AM
Post #108 of 115
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In reply to: After ALL of that, you guys want a group hug?? :wink: It's gotta be just caus I'm a nice girl climber... I heard we were kinda rare. ~Carrie
And obviously a smart one too... :lol:
- Daniel
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karlbaba
May 26, 2005, 12:38 PM
Post #109 of 115
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Sometimes folks take the (apparently) legitimate opportuntiy to correct someone's mistake and use it to vent a little inner negativity that's build up and can't find channel. Don't take it personally.
Sometimes a hard crank session will release some of the road rage within, sometimes it spills out over the internet.
Peace
karl
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mheyman
May 27, 2005, 2:32 AM
Post #110 of 115
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Only got to this post so far.
You and belayer think nothing was really wrong. Your belayers break hand was holding the rope. Right.
From what you describe here, I wonder if it was not at a locked off position. If the rope were not locked off when you feel, your belayer would not have been able to provide much friction. Likely not enough to catch a lead fall in a short distance.
Result? Exactly what you describe, but nothing seemingly wrong - unless you were watching at the time.
Further down; Looks like others agree.
RockyG: Watching the leader is good, but it was not the problem. I figure you had to let 15ft of rope slip. Youv'e got to do better than that blind folded and out of hearing range. Keeping the rope in a locked off position helps - even while you are feeding it out. Try it.
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strongerthanyesterday
May 27, 2005, 4:16 AM
Post #111 of 115
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In reply to: One thing I do want everyone to realize is that I have never been defensive or argued against what someone has said in trying to help me and my belayer.
good for you. this thread scared the shit out of me. i wish i could say that i was always as graceful as you :wink: ...
climb on, whatever your style... 8^)
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quiteatingmysteak
May 27, 2005, 6:56 AM
Post #113 of 115
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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A fall doesnt really "surprise" a good belayer, IMO. Usually you see short breathing, machine gun legs or a long hang, and any of these ar epretty easy to spot. Learning in the gym is a perfect idea, things are a little under control in comparison to outside (i.e. a 30 foot fall onto a pad may or may not break a bone) and you can get used to the rope. YES, things are different outside, and YES people will disagree that a gym is not safe, but hey, if you get jacked up real bad you can eat jello all day. and jello rocks!
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carrieruth
May 27, 2005, 1:27 PM
Post #114 of 115
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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UPDATE...
I was in the gym yesterday and took a good look at the route I was climbing with a very experienced climber, the manager of the gym. I told him the whole story, and this is what he had to say.
Because of where I was on the route, the distance between my last bolt and my top anchor, etc. he said it would be reasonable that I would fall (at the very most) halfway down the wall.
He said these are the only two things that could have happened to cause me to almost deck:
#1 - my belayer didn't have his brake hand on the rope
#2 - my belayer continued to feed out some rope while I was falling and he was looking down, before he realized I was falling
At any rate, this was, as you all know, an entirely preventable accident. Both of these scenarios are unacceptable and dangerous. I appreciate your concern, advice, recommendations, and "tough love."
Here is what we are going to do:
The manager of the gym (who is also the lead instructor) is going to work with us on belaying before we start leading again. He is going to have us do some practice and mock falls and test us out again. I believe he is very aware of everything you have suggested to us as far as practicing and practicing and practicing some more.
I hope this shows you that I have taken your comments seriously and have taken action to follow your advice.
Carrie
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ikefromla
May 27, 2005, 2:28 PM
Post #115 of 115
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
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he probably read this thread! :lol:
Big Ups to Zozo for using the expression "Big Ups"
word.
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