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brewtoad
Aug 27, 2007, 12:59 AM
Post #26 of 40
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Registered: Dec 18, 2003
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"Bomber pro does not rip."
But a$$holes do!
Stay in the gym with that attitude...there are so many accomplished climbers everywhere who can attest that accidents do happen, mistakes are made, good gear sometimes turns out to be not so good...what ever...look at the role call of climbers no longer with us and then try to convince your mommy that you are more experienced than all of them...
The point is everyone is alive if in pain, everyone will be ok (hopefully)...
Doug (belayer), Good job man! Of course you are going to wish you could take her pain, but it sounds like you did everything right...and if not (because we always are going to second guess ourselves) you did everything in your power to make it right...you helped a friend survive and no doubt have been there since...we can all only hope for that much!
get well both of you...
Cheers,
Nodin
(This post was edited by brewtoad on Aug 27, 2007, 1:01 AM)
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backclipped
Aug 27, 2007, 1:28 AM
Post #27 of 40
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 137
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Not that my experience matters much to this unfortunate accident, but I've actually fallen on this climb before. I took a pendulum-type fall onto a #1 Camalot. I remember not being siked on the placement, and rather suprised that it held (and that I fell). Climbing is calculated, but sometimes the fates decide.
My thoughts are with the fallen. I wish her a full and speedy recovery. Those beautiful granite ramparts on the Atlantic will be there...willing and waiting.
(This post was edited by backclipped on Aug 27, 2007, 1:40 AM)
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Rockskier
Aug 27, 2007, 2:33 AM
Post #28 of 40
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When I first logged onto this site, this was the kind of forum I had hoped to see; a community of sensible people who shared a passion for the lifestyle of rock climbing. To me it is much more than just a sport and the people I have met have generally been a joy to meet. Though I have never met any of the people involved in this serious accident, my heart and prayers goes out to all of you.
To those of you who feel the need to hastily criticize, repeat after me-"there but for the grace of God go I". Instead of trying to prove your superiority, learn from this experience that it can happen to any of us. You aren't necessarily any more skilled, just luckier (so far)
A sincere "thank you" to everyone out there willing to endure the jibes of asses by telling stories like this. You do the entire climbing community a service by continuing to raise awareness of the inherent dangers too easily overlooked by too many. The simple use of a helmet may have saved a life that day and who knows how many afterwards.
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trenchdigger
Aug 27, 2007, 2:46 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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rgold wrote: In reply to: If the pieces ripped then obviously they were not bomber. Bomber is when the gear holds, not if it looks like it's going to hold. In reply to: Someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip. The posters make it sound as if misjudging bomber pro is a newbie mistake, but this is just plain false. When the designer of Metolius cams made a bunch of placements and made judgements, he found that one in twenty of the placements he judged to be good failed. John Dill was recently quoted as saying, "YOSAR has seen several cases of 'solid' cam placements failing, even under body weight." And in a recent accident due to pro failure on the Nose, "this isn't a case of a beginner misjudging his protection...it can and does happen anywhere." Bomber pro is a completely theoretical concept. Our ability to judge it will always be flawed. In view of this, I think second-guessers should bite their tongues; their supposed expertise can evaporate in a fraction of a second with their own first misjudgement. Experienced climbers all have a backlog of mistakes made, errors in judgement that could have been serious but luckily weren't. The result should be some humility when we hear of another climber's misfortune, even if the natural human instinct is to explain to ourselves and anyone else who will listen why this could never happen to us. But it can---climbing cannot be made completely safe. Best wishes to Tres for a speedy and full recovery.
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curt
Aug 27, 2007, 3:23 AM
Post #30 of 40
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kobaz wrote: If the pieces ripped then obviously they were not bomber. Bomber is when the gear holds, not if it looks like it's going to hold.
I agree with that...
rgold wrote: ...Bomber pro is a completely theoretical concept. Our ability to judge it will always be flawed. In view of this, I think second-guessers should bite their tongues; their supposed expertise can evaporate in a fraction of a second with their own first misjudgement. Experienced climbers all have a backlog of mistakes made, errors in judgement that could have been serious but luckily weren't...
Of course, I agree with that too.
Curt
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backclipped
Aug 27, 2007, 5:57 AM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
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The last paragraph in the September issue of Climbing is penned from the mind of fellow New England climber, Matt Synnott: "I have always thought of the climbing community as a brotherhood and wished that we spent more time backing each other up, and less time cutting each other down."
But I suppose there will always be the staggering and starving rogues operating outside the garden of compassion and encouragement...
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losbill
Aug 27, 2007, 10:06 AM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
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I have followed Tres before. She places consistently good and smart gear. Doug's description of Tres' climbing is smack on.
RGold's comments are on the mark as usual so I will not comment further with regard to the incident itself.
What I will tell you that there is no one I know that more enthusiastic about climbing and enjoys it more than Tres. Her enthusiasm and her sunny and outgoing personality brighten up any crag at which she is climbing.
Jim, good job in taking care of your partner and dealing with a tough situation so well.
Knowing Tres the mental pain of not being able to be on the rock for a pretty long period of time is outstripping any physical pain she is experiencing. Tres, the best wishes for a very speedy and complete recovery.
Let's all get some positive energy going in that direction.
Tres looking forward to Thursdays at CH in the spring. xo Bill
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lodi5onu
Aug 28, 2007, 12:18 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
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that was Mark "Scrappy" Synnott
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backclipped
Aug 28, 2007, 3:31 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
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I stand corrected.
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bostonclimbah
Aug 28, 2007, 5:24 PM
Post #35 of 40
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Registered: Jan 10, 2003
Posts: 220
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Man, that sucks. I have many, many great memories of that climb. In fact, I have a a great pic of my wife and I at the anchor on a cloudless day with the Atlantic in the background. People always ask what (tropical) island we were on. This will somehow change the way I look at that now... Best wishes on a speedy recovery.
One thing that came to mind while reading this is that RoP was one of a VERY small number of climbs in which I decided to use an upward pull piece. I'm not speculating here as it likely has nothing to do with your situation. However, it's worth noting that at first glance, there doesn't appear to be anything special about it until you step back and take a broader look at the whole area. I only happened to notice as I was walking back up from taking a leak that it has a very awkward belay stance that almost has a double fall line, creating some weird angles on the rope and gear. The best angle, but least secure or comfortable for the belayer is on top of the rock. The worst angle but most secure is below or to the right. Regardless, the only thing going through my mind was "I DO NOT want to hit this thing - there is no good way to fall on this route".
If I recall correctly, I think I used a #4 or 5 camalot between the face and the big rock and it seemed to aleviate some of the problem but who knows.
Again, no speculation intended here. Just relaying my experience with the climb and that it is not as straight forward as some may think. In fact, I find many of the climbs on the Precipice to be more than meets the eye. Old Town is one that comes to mind. Those "Boys From Bangor" (pun intended) take things a bit more seriously.
Best of luck to you.
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bbirtle
Aug 29, 2007, 1:56 PM
Post #36 of 40
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Registered: Jan 28, 2007
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josephgdawson wrote: For her sake, someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip. Denial is a powerful thing.
Man there are some messed up things going on up there in your head, Joseph.
Very sorry to hear about the accident and best wishes for a recovery, Tresann. Once you start to get over the trauma could PM me or post a few words regarding why you think the pro failed?
As others have posted, even bomber cams can just simply sometimes fail and even complete experts cannot predict the failure beforehand. But the failure is always due to "something" which can be explained in hindsight. Was this a case of the cam not having enough friction against the rock? Did the rock itself break or fail during the fall? Was it a slightly non-vertical pull that twisted the cam (and nut) out?
This is not to judge or criticize you it is simply that knowing more about the cause of the failure could give others something more to watch out for, and prevent a repeat.
So far from this and a few other recent posts I think I will be much more cautious when above even what I consider absolute bomber gear.
(This post was edited by bbirtle on Aug 29, 2007, 1:57 PM)
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zealotnoob
Aug 29, 2007, 2:49 PM
Post #37 of 40
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
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Would we realize such rewards from climbing if serious injury wasn't a possible outcome? Is the risk worth it? I dive headlong into this pastime thinking that it is worthwhile, but the question remains...
It would inspire me to hear that Tresann had risen to climb again. Best wishes and a speedy recovery Tresann. It sounds like you have good people on your side.
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dangerdan
Aug 29, 2007, 7:50 PM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Aug 29, 2007
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The first time I met Tresann I was instructing a high angle ropes class with a large group of firefighters. High Angle rescue training for ff's is redundant & safety X 10. Main lines,safety lines, bombproof anchors and back ups to the back ups. I mentioned to a guy that was climbing with Tresann how impressed I was with her climbing ability. His reply was " she is 100 lbs. of kick a--. I'm only a top ropper and not very good at that but whenever I climbed with Tresann she always made me feel welcome even though I could not come close to her or her groups ability. She is highly skilled, knowledgable, safety concious and confident without being cocky about it. I pray for her speedy recovery and I'll look forward to climbing with her again soon. I know her climbing friends all feel the same way. FYI...Tresann gave me the name danger dan so I will proudly use it on this forum..
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hikerdd
Sep 5, 2007, 2:23 AM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 4
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Hey Doug, Jim, Dan, all of you!
I just got back in town and heard about Tresann's fall, my heart sunk! My best wishes for a full & speedy recovery to her! If anyone can come back from this Tresann can. Please if someone could tell her I am hoping the best for her!
She's the strongest and one of the safest climbers I know. We haven't been in touch over the last year but trust me in my heart goes out to you all. I know how tight of a group of friends that you are and you'll help each other deal with this and Tresann will be back on that rock for sure. Rock climbing is her passion and will be again soon!
It's sad that people feel they have to judge situations before the person can even recover and tell their own story......... In this sport accidents happen to even the strongest of climbers, and to learn from these accidents is great, but lets give the people involved a chance to deal and heal!
Healing & caring thoughts out to Tresann!!
Darlene frm Groton
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stymingersfink
Sep 5, 2007, 4:13 AM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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spot on, richard, spot on... good information for ALL of us to keep in the forefront of our minds, when on the rock or off.
Wishing the unfortunate leader god-speed in healing, climbing and leading(!) again soon. 
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