Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
CCH Cam Failure
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Next page Last page  View All


ridgeclimber


Aug 28, 2006, 4:58 PM
Post #176 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Whatever dude. Excuse me while I hurl myself off a cliff anchored to one of your super-strong cams. Fuck it man, pro rips all the time, it's a dangerous sport; that's why I do it. But I don't delude myself that my anchor will never blow. And no, I don't expect any pro to hold a 150 ft whipper. The point is people often delude themselves that their pro can hold any fall, no matter how hard. It can't. You'll die.


bobruef


Aug 28, 2006, 5:16 PM
Post #177 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
...it's a dangerous sport; that's why I do it...

:lol: you're like soo toootally X-treeeeem Johny Utah... dhuuude.


jsj42


Aug 28, 2006, 5:23 PM
Post #178 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
f--- it man, pro rips all the time, it's a dangerous sport; that's why I do it.

I think you're missing the point. If the lobes deformed, or the rock broke, or the cam just plain ripped out of the placement, I don't think CCH would have anything to worry about. I also don't think anyone would be making posts about faulty gear either. I've had more than a few pieces rip out in falls over the course of my climbing career and I never felt a need to post about it on the internet.

But that's not what is happening here. What happened is the cam tore in half in a way that simply should not have happened.


ridgeclimber


Aug 28, 2006, 5:27 PM
Post #179 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
you're like soo toootally X-treeeeem Johny Utah... dhuuude.

Spare me, will you. Driving's dangerous. Crossing the fucking street is dangeous. Extreme has nothing to do with it.


Partner wideguy


Aug 28, 2006, 5:31 PM
Post #180 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
The point is people often delude themselves that their pro can hold any fall, no matter how hard. It can't. You'll die.

It is perfectly reasonable to expect said cam, IF PLACED PROPERLY, to hold any fall that I might reasonably otherwise survive.

Good for you for your mentality that any piece might blow, doubling up and all that, but fact is it is not unreasonable to expect a cam to hold to AT LEAST it's rated load.

edited because in haste I used a poor example, as sited by roy below.


jred


Aug 28, 2006, 5:53 PM
Post #181 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
you're like soo toootally X-treeeeem Johny Utah... dhuuude.

Spare me, will you. Driving's dangerous. Crossing the f---ing street is dangeous. Extreme has nothing to do with it.
Why did ridgerunner cross the street?
Hint; extreme had nothing to do with it.

Why are so many people unable to grasp that it is not accetable that a cam just fall apart. I find myself relying on a single piece of gear (often between me and the ground) on a regular basis and I don't think it is too much to ask that the said gear do what it is advertised to do.


roy_hinkley_jr


Aug 28, 2006, 6:06 PM
Post #182 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
The point is that if BD says a .75 C4 can hold 13kN and a doctor tells me that a 12kn fall is the limit of physical tolerance for a human body before internal organd tear loose and you hemmorhage to death, then it is perfectly reasonable to expect said cam, IF PLACED PROPERLY, to hold any fall that I might reasonably otherwise survive.

Wideguy, stick to clipping bolts until you understand what is wrong with your comment...you're a danger to yourself and partners.


bobruef


Aug 28, 2006, 6:08 PM
Post #183 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
you're like soo toootally X-treeeeem Johny Utah... dhuuude.

Crossing the f---ing street is dangeous.

mmm yeah... that's the only reason I make the trek across that path of doom.

I live my life on the edge, brah!... wouldn't have it any other way.

Watch out. I'm dangerous.

I drink my Mtn Dew and I'm revel in my Xtreemness. :wink: :lol:


Partner wideguy


Aug 28, 2006, 6:52 PM
Post #184 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
The point is that if BD says a .75 C4 can hold 13kN and a doctor tells me that a 12kn fall is the limit of physical tolerance for a human body before internal organd tear loose and you hemmorhage to death, then it is perfectly reasonable to expect said cam, IF PLACED PROPERLY, to hold any fall that I might reasonably otherwise survive.

Wideguy, stick to clipping bolts until you understand what is wrong with your comment...you're a danger to yourself and partners.

OK admittedly, I posted faulty math. I was in a hurry to make a point and made it badly. I am familiar with the mechanics and load distribution involved.

The fact remains that if a 13 or 14kN unit is placed properly in solid rock it would be pretty damn hard to create a force that should exceed that load on that piece and cause it to fail. Theoretically it's possible but practical history says it doesn't happen.

To get back to the topic at hand, sounds like the fall in question did not generate a force sufficiant to break the cam and the climber who placed it had every right to expect that his piece would not fail below it's rated limit.


ridgeclimber


Aug 28, 2006, 7:19 PM
Post #185 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:

mmm yeah... that's the only reason I make the trek across that path of doom.

I live my life on the edge, brah!... wouldn't have it any other way.

Watch out. I'm dangerous.

I drink my Mtn Dew and I'm revel in my Xtreemness. :wink: :lol:

My recommendation is to mumble "urr..gnarly...gnarly" in your sleep and rob small schoolchildren of their milk money.


billcoe_


Aug 28, 2006, 7:41 PM
Post #186 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:

mmm yeah... that's the only reason I make the trek across that path of doom.

I live my life on the edge, brah!... wouldn't have it any other way.

Watch out. I'm dangerous.

I drink my Mtn Dew and I'm revel in my Xtreemness. :wink: :lol:

My recommendation is to mumble "urr..gnarly...gnarly" in your sleep and rob small schoolchildren of their milk money.

Ridgeclimber you rock! That link to the AMGA rope/gear tests is awesome too!

Thanks!

Bill


ridgeclimber


Aug 28, 2006, 9:15 PM
Post #187 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Anytime bro.


murf


Aug 29, 2006, 4:20 PM
Post #188 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tgreene - I was still curious as to your response to the below. It seems you have abandoned this thread...

In reply to:
In reply to:
As many of you are correctly aware, I've had absolutely zero knowledge or interaction with Aliens or CCH before the 1st of this year.

Over the past several months I have developed a solid report and working relationship w/ CCH, thus when comments begin flying, I'll often be the first to step forth and strongly suggest that we keep to the facts surrounding these incidents.

I'd like to point out my bolding above for further attention below.

In reply to:
I have spent a helluva lot of time this past week researching this alleged accident on behalf of CCH, and we've been in constant communication morning, noon & night...

So on Aug. 23, when you posted this:
In reply to:
You must have missed the posts about the very recent Metolius and BD failures.

you were actively an employee or contractor of CCH? And given the bolding above, you have been keeping to the facts regarding the Metolious and BD "failures" ( I have to point out here that a trigger malfunction is not a failure )?

In the interest of full disclosure, it would be interesting to note whose money you are taking while spreading disinformation about other manufacturer's.

In reply to:
Sorry kids, but despite your feelings about the way Dave runs things, we can't possibly afford to lose another manufacturer.

You seem more than willing to bash multiple other manufacturers, but won't hear of it when it concerns CCH. Seems odd, does it not?

Murf


Partner zara


Sep 1, 2006, 10:10 AM
Post #189 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 60

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

so my question now is.. are the aliens that say "tensile tested" on them (like mine do) Are they safe to climb on?


billcoe_


Sep 11, 2006, 3:31 AM
Post #190 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
so my question now is.. are the aliens that say "tensile tested" on them (like mine do) Are they safe to climb on?

I suspect that they would be at least as good if not better than most other gear out there.

Short answer would be "Hell Yes". :lol:
___________________________________________________________

Added:

BTY: I sent everyone which wasn't stamped "tensile tested" back for testing. All of mine are now stamped tested. Every damn on. I sent them in 8-31-2006 and recieved them all back stamp 9-13-2006.

THANK YOU CCH (and Tgreene) for doing this for me. (Please, don't think of this as another opprotunity to dig at the company by saying they should have been doing this all along. They are making progress and I'm damn happy they checked them all for me.)

Just do it.

Regards

Bill


paganmonkeyboy


Sep 11, 2006, 5:24 AM
Post #191 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
So, are we ever going to see a picture of the cam?

yeah.
been wading backwards looking for this too
maybe i missed them...


leavingne


Sep 11, 2006, 6:12 AM
Post #192 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 20

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

See pictures here


ridgeclimber


Sep 19, 2006, 7:32 PM
Post #193 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not meaning to ressurect a dead and buried thread. However, even if my information was incorrect about cams being weaker than other pro, my point is the same. My 150 foot high factor fall was actually unnecessary. Just consider a 4-foot high factor (1.8-9) fall; it generates the same amount of force. If your belayer is tight to the anchors and using a static locking belay device, the forces on the top piece (not the climber) could easily break even the strongest gear. With just a four foot fall. My point in ranting like this and going off topic is not to say that gear sucks and you should never use it; what I want to say is more along the lines of, maybe we should be more careful about giving a dymaic enough belay, and maybe not using a grigri/cinch on trad routes whenever possible. See what I mean?


saxfiend


Sep 20, 2006, 3:00 AM
Post #194 of 194 (30153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208

Re: CCH Cam Failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Not meaning to ressurect a dead and buried thread. However, even if my information was incorrect about cams being weaker than other pro, my point is the same. My 150 foot high factor fall was actually unnecessary. Just consider a 4-foot high factor (1.8-9) fall; it generates the same amount of force. If your belayer is tight to the anchors and using a static locking belay device, the forces on the top piece (not the climber) could easily break even the strongest gear. With just a four foot fall. My point in ranting like this and going off topic is not to say that gear sucks and you should never use it; what I want to say is more along the lines of, maybe we should be more careful about giving a dymaic enough belay, and maybe not using a grigri/cinch on trad routes whenever possible. See what I mean?
I think it's safe to say that pro is not getting routinely broken on four-foot falls (or even longer ones). I think it's also safe to say that no one with any sense is using a grigri or other such device for trad belaying. I don't know where you're coming up with these figures, but even if they were valid, it's beside the point: this thread is about a cam with a manufacturing defect, NOT gear breaking due to forces beyond their tolerances.
:roll:
JL

First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook