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crackmeup
May 26, 2013, 10:17 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146
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I've had this issue with my ring finger for a few months:
When I latch onto a jug in a dynamic fashion so that there is sudden pressure on the crease between the ring finger and the palm of my right hand, I experience some degree of pain. I believe that's the A1 pulley. It also hurts when I do deep friction massage lengthwise (from the palm to the finger and back), or if I smack the area against some object.
I have perfect, pain-free range of motion. I can make a fist, play the piano, type, etc. with no pain. I can also climb just fine; I climb everything open-handed, and never have any pain with static movements (even when bouldering at my limit). Of course I don't crimp, that would hurt too. I avoid problems that require crimping (thumb over fingers). If I can send it with an open-hand grip great, if not I skip it.
I became aware of this when trying to do a hangboard training session a few weeks ago, which I stopped short. I hadn't done a hangboard period since December. I haven't stopped climbing, and the problem is not getting better or worse. I tried Dave MacLeod's 30-minute cold water hand soaking, and it doesn't seem to help much.
I got a recommendation for a PT that I will go see, but I'm posting this here just to see what people make of this.
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onceahardman
May 27, 2013, 11:03 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1805 views)
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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Hi, crackmeup,
It's good news that it is not getting worse.
Pulleys heal slowly. Keep it moving, AROM daily. Don't do too much friction massage. Maybe 2 minutes every other day.
Otherwise. it sounds like you are taking pretty good care of it. I'd probably have you back off a little, climb 1-2 times per week, on non-consecutive days.
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