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ryand1337
Aug 15, 2013, 9:34 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2013
Posts: 3
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I have been climbing for a little over a year, a couple months back I started having pain and swelling in both my middle finger knuckles. I can no longer make a tight fist or stretch them completely without pain or resistance. I am really not sure what to think of this, I have no idea if its a tendon, ligament or a pulley injury. I went to my doctor and he said it was trigger finger but I know that's not it because my fingers never get stuck in one position.
If anyone has any insight on what this injury is that would be amazing!
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onceahardman
Aug 15, 2013, 10:51 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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Pain and swelling are signs of inflammation. Inflammation of a joint, by definition, is arthritis.
You are putting too much force on your joints. Back off, rest until the pain goes away, but keep the fingers moving.
When you return, try climbing actual rock, more than plastic.
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funintheslots
Aug 15, 2013, 2:48 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
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I stretch my fingers almost every day. Get a 30 second timer, set up the stretch and hold. Gentle but firm, it's not a competition.
I especially concentrate on the driving finger (aka middle finger); it gets at least 3 30-second stretches.
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scotchie
Aug 15, 2013, 4:07 PM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2004
Posts: 261
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Daily stretching has been helping me also. 4 stretches - flexor with palm facing down, flexor with palm facing up, extensor palm down, extensor palm up. I think this also helps with tight muscles from typing.
The original poster indicated it was also painful to stretch. In that case, then rest is the only option until it gets a bit better. Don't stretch if it hurts to do so.
I've read that for long term prevention it might be best to adopt a cyclical training program that involves periods of no climbing, in order to give the joints some time to heal. Cycle between climbing and a different sport, or even work in some easy trad or alpine, which wouldn't put as much stress on the finger joints. I'm not a living example of this, though. I like to climb...
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