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david_n_raines
Apr 16, 2013, 10:50 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Jul 3, 2008
Posts: 12
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No question, just fishing for general moral encouragement.
How many people out there get persistent, minor tendonitis that takes them out for several months at a time?
I've been climbing for 9 years now. Last fall, I irritated my elbows overtraining, ignored it and kept training for a month, and since then have been seeing a (good) doc and (good) PT, and been in and out of PT since then. Every time it starts getting better, I seem to do something innane to re-injure it. I'm might wind up going back in to PT in a week or so if it doesn't start feeling better. Its been something like 6 months since I've climbed, and now that Spring is here, I'm really missing it.
Do other people go through this? I've been having to find substitution hobbies (running 5ks, and hiking), which is are fun, but really don't compare. Esp. now that Spring is here, and all my friends are heading out for road trips every weekend.
:(
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shockabuku
Apr 17, 2013, 1:28 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1773 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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david_n_raines wrote: No question, just fishing for general moral encouragement. How many people out there get persistent, minor tendonitis that takes them out for several months at a time? I've been climbing for 9 years now. Last fall, I irritated my elbows overtraining, ignored it and kept training for a month, and since then have been seeing a (good) doc and (good) PT, and been in and out of PT since then. Every time it starts getting better, I seem to do something innane to re-injure it. I'm might wind up going back in to PT in a week or so if it doesn't start feeling better. Its been something like 6 months since I've climbed, and now that Spring is here, I'm really missing it. Do other people go through this? I've been having to find substitution hobbies (running 5ks, and hiking), which is are fun, but really don't compare. Esp. now that Spring is here, and all my friends are heading out for road trips every weekend. :(
I've dealt with elbow tendonitis a number of times. For me, not climbing makes it go away temporarily but it comes back as soon as I start climbing again. The best solution for me has been to continue climbing (2-4 times/week) at a low level of intensity (easy route climbing). Also, avoiding the kinds of holds (particularly pinches, some slopers) and positions (like lock-offs) that aggravate the elbow appears to be a good idea.
I've been plagued by a particularly bad case of it now for about 9 months and it only started getting better recently when I started: 1) eccentric exercises for the part of the forearm that hurts (the top video at this link was helpful: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/videos/), 2) stretches (similar to these: http://www.nicros.com/...ting-climbers-elbow/), 3) warming up prior to climbing with some exercises like the pronation exercise in the Nicros link, and 4) massage of the aggravated area (for which I bought one of these: http://www.armaid.com/), and 5) wearing a compression sleeve while I climb and lift weights (which seems to prevent some of the aggravation).
I can now climb at full intensity though difficult pinches still cause some discomfort for a few days. I anticipate at my current rate of recovery I should be back to normal in about a month. I should note that I didn't start most of this "treatment" until I'd had the tendonitis for at least 4-5 months and kind of grew into it as the problem persisted.
The stretching and frying pan exercises have probably been the most effective parts.
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