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adam3
Jan 10, 2007, 1:09 AM
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Me and some buddies are planning a trip down south to the states and Im just looking for some good crags not to far south of the boreder. If anyone knows of good parks or website that could help me out on picking some fairly decent climbs let me know. thanks!
(This post was edited by thomasribiere on Jan 10, 2007, 10:10 PM)
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neuroshock
Jan 10, 2007, 4:58 AM
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that border is pretty wide. which state(s) were you planning on?
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miavzero
Jan 10, 2007, 6:08 AM
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When are you going?
Most places that far north are still pretty cold. Smith Rocks is sometimes doable at this time of year.
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trebork2
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Jan 10, 2007, 7:46 AM
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Go to Mexico!
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adam3
Jan 10, 2007, 9:36 PM
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haha my bad.. yah I live in Ontario and I was thinking late spring early summer to hit the road. I heard that Ohio has good crags.. Let me know : )
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tradrenn
Jan 11, 2007, 1:43 AM
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adam3 wrote: haha my bad.. yah I live in Ontario and I was thinking late spring early summer to hit the road. I heard that Ohio has good crags.. Let me know : )
RRG in Kentucky has sport and trad, 10 hours drive.
Gunks in NY has trad only, 7 hours drive.
Rumney in NH has sport, 12 h. drive.
Are you more into sport, trad or bouldering ?
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jan 11, 2007, 1:43 AM)
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adam3
Jan 11, 2007, 2:25 AM
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Yah soo my bad again.. haha I should also have mentioned im just getting into sport climb. I have climbed all my life and only got into actually rock climbing this past summer. So.. since I dont know what "trad" is Im just gonna say sport and bouldering.
also thanks to people replying so quick. Much appreciated!
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c4c
Jan 11, 2007, 1:42 PM
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there is some good bouldering just across the border near Buffalo called the niagara glenn.
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jmeizis
Jan 11, 2007, 1:48 PM
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There's good climbing in Minnesota if you're in the western part of Ontario. Nice lakeside cliffs, long cracks and a little adventurous.
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tradrenn
Jan 12, 2007, 2:29 AM
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adam3 wrote: Yah soo my bad again.. haha I should also have mentioned im just getting into sport climb. I have climbed all my life and only got into actually rock climbing this past summer. So.. since I dont know what "trad" is Im just gonna say sport and bouldering
Trad is a short form for traditional, that means as you climb ( lead ) the route you have to place your own protection like stoppers, cams, hexes or tricams.
Sport climbing:
For us Ontarians we have 3 major place to clip some bolts:
#1 Lions Head about 2.5 hours north from TO.
#2 Rumney in New Hampshire, about 13 hours drive.
Lots of SC including easier grades, like 5.8 bolted.
#3 RRG ( Red River Gorge ) in Kentucky has both trad and sport, some crags are mostly sport, some are mostly trad, some are both.
I hope you don't find me rude but I have a feeling that you haven't done much sport leading, that's why I have few questions for you.
Do you know how to lead sport climb ?
Do you lead at the gym ?
Have you gone to Glass Cliff and did the 5.7 and 5.8 over there yet ?
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tradrenn
Jan 12, 2007, 2:31 AM
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c4c wrote: there is some good bouldering just across the border near Buffalo called the Niagara Glenn.
FYI this guy is from Ontario.
A very good suggestion, I will second that.
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adam3
Jan 12, 2007, 4:43 PM
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I bascially just got into rock climbing this past summer. I was taught at camp the basics of top roping and basic stuff like knots and techniques and safety. I have gone out climbing on some 5.10s at mounth nemo on the escarpment and havent had a chance to try much hard due to lack of other expeirenced climbers to belay and junk. I just bought some quickdraw slings and Im gonna test em out on a climbing wall at a camp where I work. Its small and only has 4-5 bolts in the wall but something to learn on. I have basically been reading lots and testing on small wall. I dont have anyone whos "trained" to really learn from. (on my to do list) so yah .. I love climbing.. I wanna try new things like leads and multipitch and all that fun sounding stuff. without dying :S
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tradrenn
Jan 13, 2007, 1:15 AM
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Did you lead at Nemo ?
I would like to suggest to you to go to RRG in Kentucky but I need to know if you are leading.
Do you know how to thread the rope through anchors ?
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captainstatic
Jan 13, 2007, 2:17 AM
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Last year I met some Canadian "trad" climbers in Miguel's parking lot in late February who were on "Spring Break". So yeah, any time from beginning of March on should be good to come to the Red. Red River Outdoors will be opening beginning of March so you can get your hot cup of Joe & breakfast before you head to the crag.
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adam3
Jan 13, 2007, 5:50 PM
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nah I havent gotten out yet to try lead climbing.. I have read up on proper placements of draws and directions for putting the rope and stuff.. since I dont have a mentor to teach me I make sure I read allll the fine print on everything I buy ;) haha
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tradrenn
Jan 13, 2007, 8:43 PM
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I think you should get a "Sport Climbing" by John Long. Read that.
Also have a look at new guide "The Red River Gorge"
by Ray Ellington.
You can check both at MEC in TO ( 400 King St W. )
Once it gets warmer in Ontario feel free to PM me and I will show you some staff. ( Sundays are better, I work Saturdays till noon )
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jan 13, 2007, 9:27 PM)
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granite_grrl
Jan 15, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Where you head to really depends on the time of year, current weather and the leading you can do (or your partner can do).
Sport I'm thinking RRG, NRG or Rumney. If you're just beginning my friend was very pleses at the volume of low grade routes at Rumney.
Trad, Gunks, RRG, Seneca, White Horse, and the list goes on. Again, if you're starting to lead you can get on really low grades at the Gunks with good gear (note - the exposure may still scare the crap out of you, even if you're just on a 5.easy).
There are soooooo many places within 7 - 15 hours from Toronto. I would start flipping through guide books and reading up on different places and see which ones get you the most excited.
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