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-mountain-goat-
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Feb 7, 2005, 12:15 AM
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Simple question, What is the standard Trad climbing rack for North Carolina.
Sorry guys, I was building my rack and I lost my guidebook.
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charley
Feb 7, 2005, 12:49 AM
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I'll let the een cee climbers answer this. You'll get a least a dozen opinions there. :D
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irockclimbtoo
Feb 7, 2005, 1:16 AM
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ab
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bumblie
Feb 7, 2005, 12:53 PM
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Full set of stoppers
1/2 - 3 Tricams
Full set of SLCDs (up to 3")
#7,#9 & #11 hex
8-12 sewn runners w/ biners
Fergit them sissy draws. We don't cotton to none of that there candy-assed "spurt" climbin'. :wink:
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edge
Feb 7, 2005, 1:56 PM
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edge moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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cjstudent
Feb 13, 2005, 11:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'll let the een cee climbers answer this. You'll get a least a dozen opinions there. :D never been there but when in doubt by 3 of everything and you'll be set
When you thought to type "never been there" thats when you should have thought it would be pointless for you to reply.
Like was already said, forget the sport draws. Get you some slings and make trad draws since there is a low volume of bolts in NC.
I carry:
Pink, Red, and Brown tri-cams.
full set of stoppers with maybe one or two doubles on the bigger sizes
Cams: (this is what i carry 95% of the time...) Metolius from purple up to red. black diamond from .75 (green) up to #3 (blue) with a double in #1 size and usually the #2
Places like Looking glass love tri-cams and TCU's on those eye brows. i've found other places seem to suck up an abundance of gear. go to stone mountain and all u need is a few draws!
-Aaron
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hellohelloagain
Feb 14, 2005, 12:59 AM
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This is from the guide book:
One set of brass, or micro-sized nuts
One set of Wired nuts
Two sets of three-cam units to .5 inch
two sets of four-cam units .5 to 3 inches
full length runners
10-12 quickdraws
extra biners
nut tool
double ropes helpful but not necessary
You really dont need doubles on all the cams, but could be good to have.
Would get some small tri cams.
But, pretty much just what cjstudent said.
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nrvna963
Feb 22, 2005, 7:19 PM
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i know most of this has already been posted but...
i like...
nuts: large selection, very small(brassies) to large
tri cams: filed down pink, pink, red, and brown
tcu's: these tend to do beter than 4 cam units bc they fit in more places but anyway, doubles on the small sizes and med sizes, and you can usually always get by not taking anything bigger than a 2 BD, "the book" will usually note if you need anything bigger, but if your in doubt you can take larger stuff
slings: rope drag can get bad in NC, unless you go to whitesides. If its a trad line i typically dont use anything shorter, unless you know its going to be hard and your trying to minimize your falling distance
rope: i like to use a 70 meter because you can run pitches together, and sometimes even 3 pitches together, carrying 2 ropes one the bigger stuff is a good idea.
misc: cordellette, daisy, nut tool <-(must have), extra biners for those nut placements, tibloc can come in handy, the anchors can get interesting in some cases, so long slings and more extra biners, maybe a hook uncase you get pumped and dont feel like taking that 100 foot whipper and dont forget to throw in a harness, shoes, and clalk, har har
i just know im forgetting something...
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outdoorsie
Feb 22, 2005, 7:26 PM
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Rack? Ha! They don't use pro in NC! Spent my honeymoon climbing in Linville gorge. My husband and I got beta on a climb on Table Rock from one of the Outward Bound guides (whom we later determined was insane).
"Oh, on the second pitch, all you need is one red cam, one yellow cam and a draw for the bolt." Hmph. IMHO, 3 pieces of pro on 120ft of climbing does not a safe route make. That was an... exciting... climb. We didn't listen to the OB people any more after that. ;-)
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cjstudent
Feb 23, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Do u remember what route?
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goober
Feb 24, 2005, 2:57 AM
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Outdoorsie is right, we don't need much pro. When people say this "When in doubt run it out" they actually mean it. :shock:
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glyrocks
Feb 24, 2005, 3:29 AM
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tricams, I think, are more important than cams down here. Cams are great, but I place far more Tricams than cams on most climbs. Maybe that's just me though...
Hah, yea, the Linville Gorge is great.
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outdoorsie
Feb 24, 2005, 2:50 PM
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In reply to: Do u remember what route?
Erm, if that's to me... it was Cave Route. Super easy, yeah, but we'd started trad climbing in the Red, and this was longer and more exposed than just about anything we'd ever done. Definately memerable.
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bumblie
Feb 24, 2005, 4:00 PM
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One side benefit of well placed tricams in the eyebrows of Lookingglass is watching your second bust up his knuckles cleaning the boogers. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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knieveltech
Jun 25, 2007, 6:54 PM
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After dredging the forums I wasn't able to find a good description of what a "general use" trad rack might look like in NC and figured I'd bump this in hopes that some solid beta might be provided. I just started working on my rack and after spending a couple hours this weekend working on gear placements on the ground during which I noticed that most cracks/features tended to be shallow and flaring. That being the case what gear does the typical NC climber carry to cope with this?
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ja1484
Jun 25, 2007, 7:24 PM
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knieveltech wrote: I just started working on my rack and after spending a couple hours this weekend working on gear placements on the ground during which I noticed that most cracks/features tended to be shallow and flaring. That being the case what gear does the typical NC climber carry to cope with this?
Your SACK son, because that's what's gonna get you past those flares to the next protectable section.
Additionally, to the poster above mentioning 3 pieces of pro in 120 feet of climbing, that's actually not that bad. Many NC areas (*cough*Stone Mountain*cough*) consider that well protected.
As for a standard NC climbing rack:
1x set of wired nuts
1x set of cams
1x set of small cams (TCUs recommended)
3x Tricams pink and red
2x Tricams Brown
1x Tricam purple
A selection of medium sized hexes (3 - 5 of
em)
Testicular Fortitude - you'll need this more than the rest of it.
Draw wise, I usually carry 8 - 10 trad draws, and 3 - 6 over the shoulder slings, depending upon the route. 3 or 4 sport-style dogboned draws are fine, as there are sometimes sections (usually near the end of a pitch) where slinging is unnecessary. If not, add an additional 4 or so trad draws.
That'll get you up most stuff. If you really want to go whole hog, add another set of cams, a set of micronuts, and grab a few bigbros for the occasional chimney.
Anyway, come on down, and prepare to get your head right :)
Post Script: Please do not misinterpret the sack comments. There are climbs in NC that are run-out between really good gear/the odd bolt, and there are climbs in NC that are run-out above crap. Bold (sack) is different from stupid (stupid).
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jun 25, 2007, 8:28 PM)
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justroberto
Jun 25, 2007, 7:28 PM
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knieveltech
Jun 25, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Excellent responses by both posters, thanks for the chuckle and the gear beta.
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dynamo_
Jun 25, 2007, 8:25 PM
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A verbatim exchange between myself (belaying) and my partner (leading) on a recent trip to NC. Rhett was out of sight and had bogged down...
Me: "What's taking so long!??
Rhett: silence
Me: "Rhett!!!"
Rhett: "WHAT!!!"
Me: "What's the hold up!?"
Rhett: "I'm 60 feet run out above my last piece!...and I'm freaking out!"
Me to a NC veteran whose party had caught up to us at the P4 belay: "You have any recommendations?"
Dude, taking a drag from his Marlboro red: "Yeah. Get a piece in as soon as possible."
"Sack" is right. Rhett's boldness got us to the next belay...as was said, get ready to get your head right.
(This post was edited by dynamo_ on Jun 25, 2007, 8:27 PM)
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weatherm
Jun 25, 2007, 8:44 PM
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You don't need a rack for NC. Just two balls and some slings for a belay. shed the rack and save some weight because its pointless. I really do not like pitch 4.. dyamo_ ... your lead next time bud.
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dynamo_
Jun 25, 2007, 8:47 PM
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I'm feeling woozy...
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saxfiend
Jun 25, 2007, 9:00 PM
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A standard rack in NC is the same as the standard rack anywhere. Only difference is that a lot of it won't get used.
JL
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justroberto
Jun 25, 2007, 9:06 PM
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dynamo_
Jun 26, 2007, 1:51 PM
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Roberto: (insert the theme from 'Jaws')...that'd be the one. Headed back as soon as it colls a little.
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ja1484
Jun 26, 2007, 2:14 PM
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weatherm wrote: You don't need a rack for NC. Just two balls and some slings for a belay.
Stolen for signature.
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