|
|
|
|
*thriller*
Deleted
Jan 30, 2006, 2:55 PM
Post #1 of 2
(2662 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
So I went climbing at Rattlenake Point (Milton, Ontario) this weekend, and we got on a couple of routes but weren't sure what they were. We started at the yellow number 14 painted at the base and went up to a ledge with a 2-bolt belay. Since we were playing with my new double ropes working on belay changeovers and rope management, we stopped here to belay, about 40' up. From here we went right then up and left up a gully one time, then walked off and did the route again, this time going left for a second pitch, clipping a bolt then climbing up a dihedral under a big roof, then traversing left under it on an exposed face and up on big holds to top out. Both variations were pretty easy, but I have no idea what they were, looking at the guidebook.
"The Escarpment, a Climbers Guide" lists nothing starting at No. 14, and and the descriptions didn't really match anything. The first variation might be the 5.0 from the guidebook, though it was definetly harder than that, and the second route I have no idea. they weren't very polished (amazing for rattlesnake), so i don't think they get climbed that often, but the variation under the roof was pretty good, and there was decent pro all the way up. I'd probably rate it 5.5 or 5.6 maybe. You definetly don't have to stop and belay at the anchor on the ledge, but the rope drag will be pretty bad if you don't - extend your slings.
Anybody know what routes these actaully were, or if anyone is planning to write a guidebook for Ontario that's actually useful?
-Ian
|
|
|
|
|
can_climber
Jan 30, 2006, 3:12 PM
Post #2 of 2
(2662 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2005
Posts: 26
|
Hi Ian,
I can think of only a few spots at rattlesnake that have bolted belays part way up the cliff. Like it says in the guidebook, you can be sure that every square inch on rattlesnake has been climbed, so you probably did some variation of...
Sinusitis
Median (but you said it felt harder than this one)
Maverick **(sounds like you may have climbed this)
The only other climb I can think of is Crepidation, but this starts right over the spring flowing out near the really big cedars. Were your climbs east of the spring?
|
|
|
|
|
|
