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zwillia1
May 2, 2008, 2:50 PM
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Hey,
So, I'm headed down to the NRG for the Rendezvous (so fucking pumped). I'm starting my sport career down there, and I wondering what people look at as their favorite climbs down there. I boulder around v5, and figure I can lead some 10's hopefully, so anything in that range and under. Remember, I'm not asking the the "best" route, but simply your FAVORITE, for whatever reason that may be.
Thanks,
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jrathfon
May 2, 2008, 3:22 PM
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that long wall 11a on the cover of the older thin guidebook. i think it's discombobulated. not even close to a ten, its a friggin' hard 11a, but it's so nice..... 105ft with like 8 or 9 bolts, hard face climbing, so nice...
just look for a 105ft 11a smack dab in the center of the long wall, cliff right of the ladders on an arete, 3, 5, max stars.
rico suave is fun and easy at the grade, junkyard wall.
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justroberto
May 3, 2008, 11:48 PM
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I haven't been on that many sport routes at the gorge, but I'd have to say maybe Orange Oswald, 10a, at Summersville. A close second is Fabulous Groupies, 5.9 (and the same wall), with a kind of interesting start and a cool little roof crux. All those nines and tens around there are pretty fantastic, But have fun with that mob scene on rendezvous weekend.
Also, if you're a new leader, the easy stretch of terrain from the last bolt to the anchors of a lot of those lines will be somewhat "exciting." Someone will inevitably offer you his stick clip for the first OA bolt. Don't take him up on it; you won't need it.
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truello
May 5, 2008, 1:47 PM
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Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall area will be your best bet, but during the rendezvous (ESPECIALLY competition day) it is crowded as hell. If you're willing to drive to Summersville (half hour north) then you'll probably be able to still get on moderate routes with not as big of crowds.
Get a guidebook at Waterstone on your way in.
http://www.amazon.com/...debook/dp/0967827043
This is probably the best one at the time.
(This post was edited by truello on May 5, 2008, 1:47 PM)
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debaser655321
May 15, 2008, 6:21 PM
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if you're climbing 5.10 sport you can find climbs in most areas at the New. Discombobulated is a great route. The routes on Orange Oswald are good, but that gets as crowded as the Rico Buttress on a rainy day. The Orange wall (summersville lake) features some easy (below 5.10) sport routes, so expect noobs to be hanging out there. The route listing on this site is pretty week, I highly recommend picking up a guide book. There are hundreds of routes on endless. If you have a trad rack bring it, some of the best routes at the new take gear.
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ja1484
May 15, 2008, 6:41 PM
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My favorite 5.10/.11 sport spots at the New are probably Orange Oswald Wall at Summersville (mostly 10s) and Butcher's Branch at Kaymoor (10s and 11s, some harder).
Rico Suave is a local classic. I *love* Totally Tammy which is just around the corner, but some people don't dig on slab so much. I'd call it my favorite.
Tattoo Wall at Sandstonia is fun, but it's mostly moderate routes under 10 IIRC.
Seconded. The new Cater guide to NRG is fantastic. The aerial photos of approaches are very helpful (especially if you do end up finding your way into Summersville without someone who's been before).
A last note: I notice you said you're "starting" your sport career. Be careful. Leading, even on bolts, isn't bouldering.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on May 15, 2008, 6:50 PM)
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zwillia1
May 15, 2008, 10:06 PM
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yea, i'm going to be super careful. i'm actually taking a clinic on sport climbing while i'm there... and i lead for the first time this past sunday. did a .8 onsight, making sure all my clips were perfect, and then did a .10c slab in a few tries. then, i proceeded to get my ass handed to me by a .11c, and took an iffy fall that banged my knee pretty good. then finished with another .8 OS.
i was really pumped about the whole thing, and loved sport climbing. i can't wait for the new, leaving in a few hours!!!
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dreday3000
May 16, 2008, 3:52 PM
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If you are a 5.10 climber I would recommend Legacy over discombobulated; IMO its a better route and discombobulated has a pretty stiff crux.
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munky
May 16, 2008, 4:43 PM
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You gotta go to Butcher's Branch and do Flight of the Gumby. 5.9 long, proud, exposed arete that just has climb me written all over it. you'll love every minute of it. just keep it together for the very end moves (think balance). There use to be a long runout through section hence the name.
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justroberto
May 16, 2008, 5:35 PM
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Springer, a couple of lines to the left of Flight of the Gumby, is pretty fun as well. You don't really get the great exposure you do on Gumby, but I thought Springer's slabby finish was more interesting than FOTG's
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