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zwillia1
Apr 24, 2009, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2007
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Hey everyone,
headed down to the gunks tomorrow, going to check out the nears for the first time. I was wondering if anyone could give me a suggestion for a route to TR between .7 and .10- i want to make sure we don't throw a rope down on a really popular lead. we're kind of splitting the day between bouldering and TR because we have about 6 people and only one rope, so really anything in that grade range will work.
thanks,
zach
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desertwanderer81
Apr 24, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Make sure you don't violate the closed off areas.
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budman
Apr 24, 2009, 7:24 PM
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As I remember it only a small section of the Nears as you enter would lend itself to a top rope. Most of the cliff would require 2 ropes or more. Better off TRing in the Trapps.
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BradP
Apr 24, 2009, 7:35 PM
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The area you are looking for is hard to miss - walk along the Nears' base on any weekend...Once you get to the point where TR lines hang off the cliff like vines in a jungle, you've found your spot.
I'll offer a suggestion you weren't asking for also: Since Williams' new Nears book came out, EVERYBODY has been climbing at the Nears. You may want to consider the Trapps also; just a thought.
What about Peterskill? Good bouldering and certainly a more TR friendly area.
See you out there
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wormly81
Apr 24, 2009, 8:10 PM
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Unless you can lead to an intermediate anchor I dont believe there is anything like what you are looking for at the Nears. The Nears is comprised big open books capped with roofs all significantly longer than a half rope length.
If you lead Birdland you can downclimb/traverse right to the Transcon anchors. Few people lead Transcon but still lead climbers have the right of way. I would doubt many would ask to pull your rope there though.
Also, Birdland will have a party on it at 8am and there will be people camped there all day. dont toprope the first pitch of Birdland as many people climb the second pitch which is just as good as the first.
(This post was edited by wormly81 on Apr 24, 2009, 8:11 PM)
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desertwanderer81
Apr 24, 2009, 9:11 PM
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Anything less than 200' long is a single pitch climb and TR'able.
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sween345
Apr 24, 2009, 10:09 PM
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Registered: May 13, 2006
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zach,
At the far end of the Nears is an area called the Williams Wall where people have been known to commonly toprope. But be forewarned, a family climbing group I belong to has said they are going down there tomorrow. Several of them are locals and will probably be there earlier than you guys get there.
Your best chance to meet your stated objective is to follow the earlier suggestion of going to Peterskill.
Also, you guys send a lot of people from Cornell, hah? I met some last week that I ended up talking to and swapping lines with. (They let my daughter get on their line on Ken's Crack) It seemed that only one guy had trad gear though and the whole gang was only able to toprope.
Jim
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marc801
Apr 24, 2009, 10:36 PM
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zwillia1 wrote: I was wondering if anyone could give me a suggestion for a route to TR between .7 and .10-
What are you willing to lead? "All the top ropes", as someone suggested, will have been set up by leading anything from a 6 to a 10b.
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coolcat83
Apr 24, 2009, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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have you considered petterskill? same rock as the gunks and all the tr you could want with convenient setup (easy walkup), some bolted anchors some gear anchors.
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