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acorneau
May 20, 2010, 3:40 PM
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Just a heads up...
We were up in Arkansas this past weekend climbing at HCR. Got on this previous-trad route, now glue-in sport route.
Be careful of the anchors at the top of this climb. Unlike most of the other anchors that use hex-head Rawl/Powers bolts, these have stud bolts with nuts.
When I arrived at the anchors the right nut was half way off the threads of the bolt! The left nut was also loose but still on the bolt. I tightened them down as best as I could with my fingers since I left my wrench in my pack (yes, I carry a wrench for this kind of thing!).
The Trading Post was closed when we were leaving so I left a small note for them. Hopefully they saw it and have since fixed the issue.
Again, take care and don't blindly trust those bolts!
(This post was edited by acorneau on May 20, 2010, 3:48 PM)
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pendereki
May 25, 2010, 8:16 PM
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Were you on the route left of African Herbman? I also forgot my wrench and hand-tightened tightened those bolts----two weekends ago! I reported them to the staff. The staff membr informed me that he had put up that route and several others the day before. He said he would get up there and tighten them. I guess it did not get done!
I am now packing my wrench again and checking all bolts.
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acorneau
May 25, 2010, 8:49 PM
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Yes, it's the one between African Herbman and Greatest Show on Earth. Starts with a wide ledge about at 6 or 7 feet and a right-facing flake/crack about half way up.
They used glue-in bolts for all the intermediate protection but used stud bolts for the top anchors. My guess is they used stud bolts at the top so they could immediately rap down to drill and set the glue-ins. They should take out the studs and replace them with glue-ins as well, that way they/we won't have to worry about the nuts falling off the stud bolts.
Unfortunately, this is another trad climb that has been retro-bolted. (I also got on Green Goblin and lead it sans-bolts.) Don't know why they're bolting up all the trad climbs out there.
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pendereki
May 29, 2010, 1:13 PM
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Bolting trad climbs is the Local ethic at hcr. I got to climb stii neked fools before the bolts, the pro was tricky, I had fun!
When I climbed it this last time, I could not tell if the bolts were ever torqued down. It looked like the person bolting might have been hanging off the tree and inserted the bolts then rapped down, forgetting to tighten them. Therefore I backed up the anchors with a Biner on the top bolt.
Did you get the biner? I hope so, it is fun to know where gear goes after I walk away. How much was the left bolt sticking out? When I hand tightened it, there was aproxzmatly 1/3 of an inch of threads sticking out from the nut, did it pull out further?
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acorneau
May 29, 2010, 2:52 PM
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pendereki wrote: Did you get the biner?
There was no biner left when I climbed it, so it's floating out there somewhere.
In reply to: How much was the left bolt sticking out?
The bolt itself looked like it was well set, just about 1/4" to 1/3" of threads beyond the nut/hanger and the nut was slightly loose. The right bolt had it's nut almost all the way off because of the way the hanger turns when loaded.
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boadman
Jul 14, 2010, 9:31 PM
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A little lock tight is the best option.
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Bats
Jul 14, 2010, 11:36 PM
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Call or email the Johnsons, the owners. They seem to be very safety conscious people, perhaps thats why all the bolting. Sam's Throne is only 30 minutes away and its mostly trad.
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