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Stoves
Mar 24, 2011, 3:59 PM
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Man I never been this excited in my life.
Come April 14th I will be at Red Rocks for 7+ days. There's about 10 of us going. (As always I'm the least experienced one)
My question is how can I get the most out of this trip once i'm there and what should I do in terms of preparation?
I'm planning to do some sport climbing so should I just practice lead at the gym?
Is there time for me to take a trad class and maybe do some trad?
Considering how I'm a V2 Boulder/ 10.b Lead climber at the gym and this is my first outdoor trip what routes should go for it? Am I looking at 5.8?
Any suggestions on a specific route?
@blueeyedclimber: Thanks for writing your trip report to RR that was a nice read.
Much appreciated,
Stoves.
(This post was edited by Stoves on Mar 24, 2011, 4:19 PM)
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socalclimber
Mar 24, 2011, 4:32 PM
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Stoves wrote: Man I never been this excited in my life. Come April 14th I will be at Red Rocks for 7+ days. There's about 10 of us going. (As always I'm the least experienced one) My question is how can I get the most out of this trip once i'm there and what should I do in terms of preparation? I'm planning to do some sport climbing so should I just practice lead at the gym? Is there time for me to take a trad class and maybe do some trad? Considering how I'm a V2 Boulder/ 10.b Lead climber at the gym and this is my first outdoor trip what routes should go for it? Am I looking at 5.8? Any suggestions on a specific route? @blueeyedclimber: Thanks for writing your trip report to RR that was a nice read. Much appreciated, Stoves.
First off, I think the reference to blueeyedclimber speaks volumes. He learned a valuable lesson.
Yes, forget what you do in the gym. Keep the ratings low. 5.8 or lower if you are doing trad.
Don't go there with any expectations. Just go. Have fun. I made this mistake more than once years ago and learned my lesson. Just go. Maybe you'll get some multi-pitch in, maybe not. Maybe you'll get some sport climbing in, maybe not. Maybe you will boulder. Maybe you'll do a lot of hiking and get shutdown. The weather may suck, the winds high, and the temps low. You could spend the week in a t-shirt or in multiple layers of clothing.
My point is, don't expect anything. Just go. Prepare for backup plans. Redrocks is a gorgeous area. Grab a guide book, a decent partner and see what happens.
Road trips often lead to disaster and disappointment when expectations are to high and to focused. I can't count the number of times I've been on trips with a single goal in mind only to get shut down and then just mope about like a spoiled child who didn't get their toy of choice for xmas.
Be prepared to say fuck it, let's do something else since this area is full of people lining up for popular routes.
Take that approach, and you will have a fine time.
Have fun!
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marc801
Mar 24, 2011, 4:48 PM
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Stay out of the Black Corridor. Sure, lots of sport routes there, but probably the least pleasant of all the areas within RR. It's even less pleasant than some gyms.
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lena_chita
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Mar 24, 2011, 5:42 PM
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marc801 wrote: Stay out of the Black Corridor. Sure, lots of sport routes there, but probably the least pleasant of all the areas within RR. It's even less pleasant than some gyms.
Wow! I wondered if it gets crowded in better weather.
I guess there was an unexpected benefit in going there on a cold december day. Sure, it was cold b/c the sun barely gets in there in winter. But on the plus side, no one else was there.
To the OP:
How experienced are the "more experienced" people in your group of 10? Ideally, they should be able to answer all your questions.
I agree with VTG. It's your first trip, so no big expectations, no specific goals. Just be safe and enjoy it, whatever comes your way.
It is always a good idea, when going to a new place, to start with climbs that are well below your limit. Even people who climb outside a lot might take a bit to get used to the feel of "new" rock. You have 7 days, you will have time to try harder routes, if you feel solid and confident on the easy ones.
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markc
Mar 24, 2011, 5:53 PM
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This is more general advice, which you may still find useful. If you're doing that long of a trip and you're planning a mix of climbing and touristy stuff, pack in as much climbing on weekdays as possible. That's my goal on longer trips, as there's generally much less competition for routes during the week.
I'd suggest not going crazy in the gym. Now and then someone posts about how much shit they're doing in the gym to prepare, then get injured right before the trip. If you're already leading in the gym, just keep at it and adjust your expectations outside. If things are going well, you can bump up the difficulty. Make sure you're familiar with cleaning before you're at the top of a wall and trying to get directions from someone 80' away. That would be worth going over and rehearsing in advance of the trip.
Don't bother with a trad class yet. If your friends are experienced they can always put you in a team of three without many duties other than climbing. I've done that for people on their first outing. As has been said, be open and enjoy the trip.
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michael1245
Mar 24, 2011, 5:54 PM
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ughh...that picture gives me the creeps. when is low season?
(This post was edited by michael1245 on Mar 24, 2011, 5:55 PM)
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petsfed
Mar 24, 2011, 6:25 PM
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michael1245 wrote: ughh...that picture gives me the creeps. when is low season?
When the daytime temps are around 104.
I did my time in the Black Corridor. Now I never have to go back...
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socalclimber
Mar 24, 2011, 10:08 PM
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petsfed wrote: michael1245 wrote: ughh...that picture gives me the creeps. when is low season? When the daytime temps are around 104. I did my time in the Black Corridor. Now I never have to go back...
My god what a cluster fuck...
That place makes Trash Can Rock, Swan Slab and Manure Pile combined look empty.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Mar 24, 2011, 10:10 PM)
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kappydane
Mar 24, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Be careful about thinking that 10b in the gym is the same as 10b in RR. I would also be a little wary of getting on some 5.8's like Ultra Man until you figure out the slab climbing. The grades vary widely by area and between sport and trad. In my limited experience, the 5.7 to 5.9 sport routes are a lot easier than similarly graded trad. The 5.9 sport routes in the Gallery are chill compared to Straight Shooter, Topless Twins, or Varnishing Point, for example. If you do easy trad, there are a lot of short routes with walk offs that would be a good place to start.
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Bats
Mar 25, 2011, 12:34 AM
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Thanks for the heads up...I am going out there in June. Is there any multi-pitch sport routes? My partner and I are up for trad, but we will have 3-4 sport climbers with us, and trying do something as a group, maybe its a girl thing.
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Stoves
Mar 25, 2011, 12:46 AM
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Lena unfortunately I only know one of them who's bringing me as a guest.
My buddy advice was to keep practicing leading at the gym and work on my endurance.
But of course getting some extra inputs from my rc.com friends wont hurt.
@Marc: Will stay out of the nasty corridor for sure!
Going to the RR for the first time and having no expectation.. not that easy!
thanks for the tips boys and girls.
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jt512
Mar 25, 2011, 2:52 AM
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Stoves wrote: @Marc: Will stay out of the nasty corridor for sure!
No, you'll go. Your friends will insist.
Jay
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marc801
Mar 25, 2011, 3:54 AM
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socalclimber wrote: petsfed wrote: michael1245 wrote: ughh...that picture gives me the creeps. when is low season? When the daytime temps are around 104. I did my time in the Black Corridor. Now I never have to go back... My god what a cluster fuck... That place makes Trash Can Rock, Swan Slab and Manure Pile combined look empty.
When we were at RR in Nov 2009, I took my friends (who had never been) over to the Black Corridor just so they could see what the scene was like (we were climbing elsewhere but nearby). We knew we were close when the smell hit us - a combination of rancid sweat, sunscreen, urine, and patchouli. There were easily 30 people in there.
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enigma
Mar 25, 2011, 5:27 AM
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socalclimber wrote: Stoves wrote: Man I never been this excited in my life. Come April 14th I will be at Red Rocks for 7+ days. There's about 10 of us going. (As always I'm the least experienced one) My question is how can I get the most out of this trip once i'm there and what should I do in terms of preparation? I'm planning to do some sport climbing so should I just practice lead at the gym? Is there time for me to take a trad class and maybe do some trad? Considering how I'm a V2 Boulder/ 10.b Lead climber at the gym and this is my first outdoor trip what routes should go for it? Am I looking at 5.8? Any suggestions on a specific route? @blueeyedclimber: Thanks for writing your trip report to RR that was a nice read. Much appreciated, Stoves. First off, I think the reference to blueeyedclimber speaks volumes. He learned a valuable lesson. Yes, forget what you do in the gym. Keep the ratings low. 5.8 or lower if you are doing trad. Don't go there with any expectations. Just go. Have fun. I made this mistake more than once years ago and learned my lesson. Just go. Maybe you'll get some multi-pitch in, maybe not. Maybe you'll get some sport climbing in, maybe not. Maybe you will boulder. Maybe you'll do a lot of hiking and get shutdown. The weather may suck, the winds high, and the temps low. You could spend the week in a t-shirt or in multiple layers of clothing. My point is, don't expect anything. Just go. Prepare for backup plans. Redrocks is a gorgeous area. Grab a guide book, a decent partner and see what happens. Road trips often lead to disaster and disappointment when expectations are to high and to focused. I can't count the number of times I've been on trips with a single goal in mind only to get shut down and then just mope about like a spoiled child who didn't get their toy of choice for xmas. Be prepared to say fuck it, let's do something else since this area is full of people lining up for popular routes. Take that approach, and you will have a fine time. Have fun!
Yes, good advice !!!! 
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vegastradguy
Mar 25, 2011, 7:09 AM
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Bats wrote: Thanks for the heads up...I am going out there in June. Is there any multi-pitch sport routes? My partner and I are up for trad, but we will have 3-4 sport climbers with us, and trying do something as a group, maybe its a girl thing.
not really- at least not in red rock. Unimpeachable Groping comes close, but you have to run it out 40' on easy terrain (5.6-5.8).
of course, in June, you wont be interested in Red Rock, as it will be scorching hot. Mt. Charleston will be NICE that time of year, and it has quite a few mid-.11 multipitch lines (up to 3-4 pitches), along with lots of shady bolt clipping. its not world class, but its cool and better than dying of heat stroke.
if anyone has any questions about RR or whatever, feel free to pm me for beta.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 25, 2011, 12:14 PM
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jt512 wrote: Stoves wrote: @Marc: Will stay out of the nasty corridor for sure! No, you'll go. Your friends will insist. Jay
I had actually never heard of it until today. There's an off-chance that I've seen a pic of it before (from another trip the WW and BEC took with a mutual friend), but I didn't know what it was until today, and even then I'm not positive it was the same place.
Not saying anything important, except that maybe my guidebook reading skills are either crappy or great, depending on where one stands.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 25, 2011, 1:31 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I had actually never heard of it until today. There's an off-chance that I've seen a pic of it before (from another trip the WW and BEC took with a mutual friend), but I didn't know what it was until today, and even then I'm not positive it was the same place.
Yup, that was the place. When I went it wasnt' that crowded but there were definitely people in there. It's nice on a hot day, except midday when the sun shoots right through it, but I agree, there are MUCH better sport routes elsewhere.
Josh
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socalclimber
Mar 25, 2011, 1:40 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: socalclimber wrote: Road trips often lead to disaster and disappointment when expectations are to high and to focused. I can't count the number of times I've been on trips with a single goal in mind only to get shut down and then just mope about like a spoiled child who didn't get their toy of choice for xmas. I resemble that remark!
Hey, we've all been there! I once did a 10 day road trip where we only ended up doing a total of one 8 pitch route, and two single sport lines. And to be honest, we had a blast!
Sometimes that's how it goes.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 25, 2011, 1:53 PM
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Stoves wrote: Man I never been this excited in my life. 
In reply to: Come April 14th I will be at Red Rocks for 7+ days. There's about 10 of us going. (As always I'm the least experienced one)
10 of you? That's a lot in one group. Are you splitting up into partners or are you planning on setting up ropes and everyone gang top roping all day. If the latter, you might want to rethink it, especially if you will hog popular lines for a significant amount of time. You might annoy some people.
In reply to: My question is how can I get the most out of this trip once i'm there and what should I do in terms of preparation?
If you can, get as much leading in the gym or outside as possible. In addition to that, I don't know what kind of shape you are in, but doing cardio would help. If you go into the canyons, then some of the approaches are very long. For the sport climbing areas, it doesn't matter. Although, doing cardio and maybe working out a little will make you more ripped for when you take off your shirt to impress the ladies at the sport crag
In reply to: I'm planning to do some sport climbing so should I just practice lead at the gym?
If you can get outside before your trip, I would do that. Maybe hit the gym during the week after work.
In reply to: Is there time for me to take a trad class and maybe do some trad?
There's always time. What about your friends? What is their experience level? Taking a class certainly wouldn't hurt.
In reply to: Considering how I'm a V2 Boulder/ 10.b Lead climber at the gym and this is my first outdoor trip what routes should go for it? Am I looking at 5.8?
That's hard for us to gauge, but generally yes, when you go outside you should start below your gym level to get a feel for it. Then you can increase the grades once you feel comfortable. That might be after your first climb, or maybe it may take a few trips. Who knows?
In reply to: Any suggestions on a specific route?
I don't think i have done any routes at your level worth recommending. The best thing to do is get the guidebook and start making a list.
In reply to: @blueeyedclimber: Thanks for writing your trip report to RR that was a nice read.
Thanks for the compliment.
Have fun and take all the advice to heart. As you got from my TR, sometimes things don't work out. It's your first time there, just go and have a good time.
Josh
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Bats
Mar 25, 2011, 6:31 PM
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Thanks for the tip.
I have climbed in 98F with 100% humidity at Erock and 102F at Yosemite Valley before. An early start would be good. Crack is fine, its the slab climbing that gets ridiculously hot. Finishing around 3pm and then swimming the rest of the day or do the tourist thing.
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caughtinside
Mar 25, 2011, 6:36 PM
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So you're rolling 10 deep and you haven't led outside the gym?
Just go with the flow.
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nolifeking
Mar 25, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Wow. I took a trip with some friends there a few weeks ago, first time to red rocks, first outdoor leads. We went to the black corridor for our second day, there were never more than two other parties there, it was very chill. We got really lucky I guess.
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silascl
Mar 26, 2011, 12:16 AM
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caughtinside wrote: So you're rolling 10 deep and you haven't led outside the gym? Just go with the flow.
This sounds good to me.
I've been the noob who had top ropes set up for them. I never requested a route or an area, let someone in your group do what they want and be happy you've basically got a free guide for the day.
I've also been the not quite a noob leading some 9s and 10s for people so they could TR them. The ones who talked all day about wanting to do this route or go to this place, so I could lead a route, so they could TR it, are annoying and I no longer climb with them.
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