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1269topper
Mar 18, 2003, 3:51 PM
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Is there a devils tower local or someone who has climbed there alot who can give me some beta.
I looking for info on routes that are 5.4 to 5.8 grade. Here is my questions:
What guide book do you recommend
What is the climbing like?
How bad is the crowds ?
When a good time to go & not hit tons of crowds.
When is the Indian festival when there is no climbing?
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drkodos
Mar 18, 2003, 4:01 PM
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Very few Routes under 5.8 The Durrance route,, rated at 5.6 is rather stout for its grade, and is not a "beginner" climb. No routes that I know of in the 5.4 or 5.5 range. I could be mistaken.
The best guide books (there are two) are both for sale in the Monument gift shop. "Free Climbs of Devils Tower" by Dingus McGee and the Lone Pioneer Women is all you need, but if you want more info go with "Devil's Tower" by Guilmette, Carter, and Gardiner.
The climbing is awesome, if you like long, sustained crack climbing and dihedrals.
June is Voluntary closure month. Respect the closure and don't climb in June.
The crowds are mostly non-climbers that want to interview you when you come down. Climbing at the Tower is an attraction for the touristas. It's almost a sideshow atmosphere. Be prepared to answer these questions over and over again:
"Did you get to the top?"
"How did you get the rope up there"
etc.
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mungeclimber
Mar 18, 2003, 4:01 PM
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There aren't many routes in that range, and those that are in that range are old school rated. i.e. no single move may be harder than 5.7, but it will be 165 feet of continuous 5.7 moves, and sandbagged at that compared to more modern areas and gyms.
With that said, must do route is the Durrance. Not quite as sustained as some of the others on the East Face with all manner of styles associated with it. Start early as this climb gets crowded. However, if you are stupid like us you can go during the heat of July and avoid any semblance of Crowds. The voluntary closures I believe are in the month of june. If it's too hot jump down to Needles, SD for some sport.
For a comprehensive guide, get the Guilmette book (green cover is the most recent I think).
Generally, though the climbing is inspiring with views for miles and miles. Quality rock with quality crack climbing.
Cheers,
Munge
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neomagi
Mar 18, 2003, 4:10 PM
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is the weather generally too hot to climb it in late july / early august? i was thinking of giving it a go then, but how hot and humid do you think it will be there?
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1269topper
Mar 18, 2003, 4:12 PM
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Sounds good on the beta guys.
This is what i figured it would be like. I was there once on a cross country trip & had no gear :cry: . I can't wait to get there to climb the tower.
I heard that the top is really loose? Is that so?
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drkodos
Mar 18, 2003, 4:13 PM
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It is very hot in July and August, but the nature of the Tower allows one to follow the shade.
Here are some recommended routes 5.8 and under:
Bon Homme (Var) 5.8
Tad 5.7
Mystic and the Mulchers 5.8
El Cracko Diablo 5.8
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crick
Mar 18, 2003, 4:18 PM
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there are very few routes in the 5.4 to 5.8 range. youve got a few choices though.
1. durrance. i think most books still call it 5.6, but in reality it's a stoute 5.7. expect huge crowds. I've been there pre-sunrise and ended up behind 2 parties on more than one occasion. the main reason for this is heat. expect heat. it can get well over 100 F on the sunny exposed south wall. if youre experienced and fast you can avoid both of these issues by not starting till late in the day, but then you would have to be fast and confident. 5 pitches of stoute 5.7, eh. and i don't recomend scouting out the raps in the dark; they are tricky and devious.
2. tad. The easiest route to the top. solid 5.7 with one hanging belay. this is basically 220' of hand/fist jamming with no decent stopping point for the belay. when you run low on gear, stop. gets more shade than durrance.
3. el cracko diablo. enjoy offwidths? this is a classic. easy 5.8 OW for about 240 feet, ro so. bolted anchor. bring that five for sure. youll be walking it a ways on this one. gets more shade than durrance.
now if you can raise the bar to 5.9, you can add about 4+ awesome climbs to this list. the 'good' climbing at the tower really starts at that level.
The tower is never closed. The case went to court and you can climb year round. They simply 'ask' you not to climb during June. I can't think of a single local that honors that request. The rock is my religion as much as theirs.
Local, moved back home.
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mungeclimber
Mar 18, 2003, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: there are very few routes in the 5.4 to 5.8 range. youve got a few choices though. 1. durrance. i think most books still call it 5.6, but in reality it's a stoute 5.7. expect huge crowds. I've been there pre-sunrise and ended up behind 2 parties on more than one occasion. the main reason for this is heat. expect heat. it can get well over 100 F on the sunny exposed south wall. if youre experienced and fast you can avoid both of these issues by not starting till late in the day, but then you would have to be fast and confident. 5 pitches of stoute 5.7, eh. and i don't recomend scouting out the raps in the dark; they are tricky and devious. 2. tad. The easiest route to the top. solid 5.7 with one hanging belay. this is basically 220' of hand/fist jamming with no decent stopping point for the belay. when you run low on gear, stop. gets more shade than durrance. 3. el cracko diablo. enjoy offwidths? this is a classic. easy 5.8 OW for about 240 feet, ro so. bolted anchor. bring that five for sure. youll be walking it a ways on this one. gets more shade than durrance. now if you can raise the bar to 5.9, you can add about 4+ awesome climbs to this list. the 'good' climbing at the tower really starts at that level. The tower is never closed. The case went to court and you can climb year round. They simply 'ask' you not to climb during June. I can't think of a single local that honors that request. The rock is my religion as much as theirs. Local, moved back home.
For #2- word
For #3- disagree, respect the closure. Access is always an issue and this was a decent compromise.
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drkodos
Mar 18, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Crick,
you sound like an Andy Petefish disciple.... 8)
not that there's anything wrong with that.
But actually the Supreme courts struck down Andy's argument and upholds the "Voluntary" closure. Why be antagonistic about it? Why not respect Aboriginal rites and rituals and not make a mockery out of the spirituality issue.
The real issue was that Andy didn't want to loose business during one of the busiest months of the year, and created a brilliant (although perverted) argument that climbing was "his religion" and he should be allowed to practice the way he chooses.
To each his own.
Personally, I honor the closure.
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wanlessrm
Mar 18, 2003, 4:29 PM
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Go ahead get your fu*king rope! "boondock saints"
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jen_c
Mar 18, 2003, 4:33 PM
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Another guide book is: Devils Tower Black Hill: Needles by John Harlin III. Not as comprehensive as the Guilmette, Carrier, Gardiner though. I actually have all three and I like the G,C,G one the best. The guide "Free Climbs of Devil's Tower" has a listing toward the front of routes based on rating. There are 31 rated as 5.8 and under though a lot of these won't necessarily get you to the top. If the summit is your goal, I would recommend the Durrance route but be warned, it is the toughest route you will probably ever climb with a 5.6 (or in some books 5.7) rating.
If you decide you want a guide, give Frank Sanders a call over at http://www.devilstowerlodge.com . He's put up a number of the routes on DT and he's a great guide (I was very pleased) .
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