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sidepull
Mar 12, 2009, 8:56 PM
Post #51 of 61
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Sublimerr wrote: Question: If I do a 10-minute hang board exercise 3-4 times a week when not climbing would that be beneficial? The workouts are just the ones posted on the metolius website- a combination of pull ups, dead hangs, etc. I'm trying to get over the v4 hump. Thanks for the help
It's not a good idea.
First, I don't think metolius offers particularly good training protocols.
Second, sneaking in additional hangboarding sessions is a recipe for over training/overuse injuries. Which leads us to ...
Third, you really need to think about sequencing your workouts if you're going to add hangboarding.
I don't have enough energy to answer all the new questions that my current answer raises. Please read Self Coached Climber (at least) to start. Or, coax JTO to share some of his wisdom on the matter.
Good luck!
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roddyheat
Mar 13, 2009, 3:33 AM
Post #52 of 61
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Personally i like to do a large volume of climbing simply because its stress release from work and i just love the tactile feel of climbing - so it is not 'training' as such.
At the moment i climb 5 -6 days a week at an indoor gym down the road from work on my way home and get out on the weekends if possible.
To prevent hurting myself i split my climbing days how i used to split my training when i did powerlifting, powerlifters do a lot of volume but they don't go in and smash the heaviest thing they can lift 6 days a week. they do a max lift day, speed day, technique day ect.
I roughly climb like that, i only crank as hard as i can two days a week. The other sessions i work on things like technique, balance, ARCing, endurance ect - nothing too crazy. (not serious endurance just what i need at the lvl i climb which tends to be shorter routes)
that's fun for me :) 99% of the people on this site climb harder than me though I'm only pushing 23s (Australian) so you can take that rambling advice for what its worth.
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Grizvok
Mar 13, 2009, 4:08 AM
Post #53 of 61
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You don't need hard hangboarding workouts in to make it over the V4 hump, you need better footwork.
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Grizvok
Mar 13, 2009, 4:11 AM
Post #54 of 61
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roddyheat wrote: Personally i like to do a large volume of climbing simply because its stress release from work and i just love the tactile feel of climbing - so it is not 'training' as such. At the moment i climb 5 -6 days a week at an indoor gym down the road from work on my way home and get out on the weekends if possible. To prevent hurting myself i split my climbing days how i used to split my training when i did powerlifting, powerlifters do a lot of volume but they don't go in and smash the heaviest thing they can lift 6 days a week. they do a max lift day, speed day, technique day ect. I roughly climb like that, i only crank as hard as i can two days a week. The other sessions i work on things like technique, balance, ARCing, endurance ect - nothing too crazy. (not serious endurance just what i need at the lvl i climb which tends to be shorter routes) that's fun for me :) 99% of the people on this site climb harder than me though I'm only pushing 23s (Australian) so you can take that rambling advice for what its worth.
What grades do you climb or what rating problems can you boulder?
Seems like a pretty good strategy though.
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Armonster
Mar 13, 2009, 4:33 AM
Post #55 of 61
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Different people warm up differently. Try 2-5 minutes of jumping jacks, running, or a similar exercise to get your blood pumping. For me, getting the blood flowing is more important than sleeping a certain amount, eating certain things, stretching certain muscles, etc. Try different things and see what works for you.
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sidepull
Mar 13, 2009, 2:28 PM
Post #56 of 61
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roddyheat wrote: Personally i like to do a large volume of climbing simply because its stress release from work and i just love the tactile feel of climbing - so it is not 'training' as such. At the moment i climb 5 -6 days a week at an indoor gym down the road from work on my way home and get out on the weekends if possible. To prevent hurting myself i split my climbing days how i used to split my training when i did powerlifting, powerlifters do a lot of volume but they don't go in and smash the heaviest thing they can lift 6 days a week. they do a max lift day, speed day, technique day ect. I roughly climb like that, i only crank as hard as i can two days a week. The other sessions i work on things like technique, balance, ARCing, endurance ect - nothing too crazy. (not serious endurance just what i need at the lvl i climb which tends to be shorter routes) that's fun for me :) 99% of the people on this site climb harder than me though I'm only pushing 23s (Australian) so you can take that rambling advice for what its worth.
This is a good strategy if you're going to try to climb "every day." That said, if day 1 and day 4 are power days and day 2 and 3 are speed and technique days, then day 4 is likely compromised.
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roddyheat
Mar 14, 2009, 5:13 AM
Post #57 of 61
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Like i said i'm not climbing super hard stuff. Australian 23 is roughly 5.11b to 5.11d in the American system. I think that equates to V2 in bouldering, but i boulder up to V4 depending on the route and the day.
Also this is mostly indoor grades though i get very close to that outdoors too. I always seem to crank harder indoor just feels safer.
As to day 4 being compromised, it probably is sometimes its not meant to be an ideal training thing, just what i do cause i need the stress relief from work of being on the wall. Most of the time i put power on monday and Sat the other days are filled in fooling around with the other stuff. (if i plan an outdoor trip on the sat i just move it around) Technique days are very low impact. They are more the 'mental' sessions. Work on low routes and try to use my feet and body perfectly with great breathing.
having more rest days is more sensible. that's just what i do, and probably off topic to the original post. I have a hangboard but never use it after seeing so many people i know pop something on one.
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chopperjohn
Mar 14, 2009, 7:22 PM
Post #58 of 61
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wow you all really work out hardcore. I just hang on my hang board till it hurts then I go about 3 minutes past that for my anearobic workout. then shuffle around my neighborhood 3 miles for cardio. Followed up by a session on my ghetto boulder cave and after all that I climb at the mountain in my backyard (crowders). none of this in any order or consistancy.seems to work for me, But im not that motivated.
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chopperjohn
Mar 14, 2009, 11:49 PM
Post #59 of 61
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chopperjohn wrote: wow you all really work out hardcore. I just hang on my hang board till it hurts then I go about 3 minutes past that for my anearobic workout. then shuffle around my neighborhood 3 miles for cardio. Followed up by a session on my ghetto boulder cave and after all that I climb at the mountain in my backyard (crowders). none of this in any order or consistancy.seems to work for me, But im not that motivated.
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roddyheat
Mar 15, 2009, 12:57 AM
Post #60 of 61
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Registered: Dec 13, 2007
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You should make a rock climbing PDF and sell it online.
"The Secret to Super Strong Forearms for Rock Climbing"
then they buy it and it has one page.
Play Wii golf.
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chalkhamster
Mar 17, 2009, 5:49 PM
Post #61 of 61
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Wow, I haven't been on here in a bit and I had no idea that this thread had gotten so much bigger.
Update: I've been spending more time roped climbing (about 2 days per week) and am still managing to boulder 1-2 days per week. The added climbing seems to be helping out a good deal. I also took 12 days off, which once I climbed again a time or two, seemed to offer some long term benefits.
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