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mleogrande
Sep 24, 2009, 2:17 AM
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I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis.
I find it extremely difficult to improve now.
Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever.
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suprasoup
Sep 24, 2009, 4:35 AM
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First. Gym climbs don't count. EVER.
2nd. Gonna need a lot more Info than what you provided. 5.12 what do you climb currently? 12a? 12d? You say you've done a few how many and how hard?
3rd. Each letter grade becomes progressively harder to achieve. Get used to it.
From what I can gather out of the scant info you've provided, my best advice is you need to get outside. Climb on real rock, as many different types of rock, as often as you can.
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jh_angel
Sep 24, 2009, 5:08 AM
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With out any details all I can offer is running 4x4's on V6s should help things out.
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majid_sabet
Sep 24, 2009, 5:18 AM
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doing 5.12 in FL is like doing 5.6 in CA
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USnavy
Sep 24, 2009, 7:06 AM
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They have climbing in Florida? Funny, I must have missed it when I drove the entire length of the Interstate all the way to the ocean.
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bennydh
Sep 24, 2009, 7:21 AM
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I hate to stifle your high on 5.12, but If the grades are that severely misnomered by comparison to Cali, then come out to Cali, and through down some 5.12 in Joshua Tree, Yos, Needles, Taquitz, the meadows etc.
I'll second what Supra said as well. Indoor grades don't count outdoors. Get more outdoor exposure to the 5.12 grade.
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glytch
Sep 24, 2009, 8:47 AM
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mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever.
Most people seem to want to harp on the fact that you cited gym grades, which, as far as I'm concerned, doesn't have any relevance whatsoever to the question you asked. You've plateaued, and even though it's based on gym grading, the fact that you're into the 12's makes me think that at the very least, you're reasonably proficient in one or more styles of climbing. You've also been at that grade for a year, which indicates you may be a reasonable candidate for climbing-specific training (if you were 10 weeks into your climbing career, for instance, that would not be the case. Gotta keep the tendons intact...).
Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14. So, read everything on this forum. Read the books "Training for Climbing" and "The Self Coached Climber." Read rockprodigy's article (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html). Read Ben Moon's training articles. Look up posts by Aerilli, fluxus, and onceahardman on this site for well-informed training and injury advice. There are a lot of opinions on the best way(s) to train - many of which agree, some of which are diametrically in opposition.
Assess yourself carefully and make sure you've got enough experience and enough time strengthening your tendons under your belt that you won't get injured by training. Then, go at it. Get stronger. Don't forget to do footwork drills, and keep improving your technique. Climb harder, even if it's only in the gym. Nothin' wrong with trying to get better and making the best of the situation you're in!
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jt512
Sep 24, 2009, 10:21 AM
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glytch wrote: mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever. Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14.
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 24, 2009, 10:22 AM)
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andersjr
Sep 24, 2009, 11:12 AM
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jt512 wrote: glytch wrote: mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever. Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14.
Those are all >2 years old. What if he did train that hard, and is now sending 10s, 11s, 12s, or even climbing harder than you and sending 13s?
Not everyone runs home from the crag eager to update their rc.com profile to show off to the world how badass they are.
(This post was edited by andersjr on Sep 24, 2009, 11:14 AM)
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csproul
Sep 24, 2009, 11:56 AM
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I was just wondering how many people who don't climb anywhere near 5.13 would offer advice in this thread.
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kyleshea
Sep 24, 2009, 1:04 PM
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find a climb that is rated 5.13. climb it. or work it until you can climb it. rest and repeat.
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Rockjunkie15
Sep 24, 2009, 1:33 PM
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I barely climb 5.13 outdoor, but I noticed a huge improvement in my climbing when I started doing longer endurance sessions on small holds. A fantastic way of doing this is doing 4 x 4's on difficult boulder problems, and self-belaying on gym TR routes; that is if the gym allows this. Another very important thing for me is to give my self rest days between hard sessions, if I don't do this my performance decreases noticeably and discouragement follows.
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IsayAutumn
Sep 24, 2009, 1:45 PM
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kyleshea wrote: find a climb that is rated 5.13. climb it. or work it until you can climb it. rest and repeat.
In my experience, 5.13 and harder climbs consist of increasingly bigger dynos. The size of the crux dyno is in direct correlation with the grade of the route. This supports my theory that to get to the higher, elite grades, you need to do as many dynos as you can, with increasing intensity.
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Skidemon27
Sep 24, 2009, 1:56 PM
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dude u are truly fu*king hilarious. prolly the meanest funniest prick i ive heard.
with out a doubt u area a RC.com bully... and prolly the most humorous...u make the world go around bro
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CrazyPetie
Sep 24, 2009, 2:32 PM
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jt512 wrote: glytch wrote: mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever. Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14.
Incredible. Someone actually provides some genuine information and you STILL find the need to make fun. Not to mention the time it took to make those cute little red circles. It must be really hard to have friends on here but not in real life.
Maybe you should take his advice, MR. I've-been-redpointing-12a-for-the-past-5-years. You're like the deffinition of a plateau. I've been climbing for one year and already can do that.
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shockabuku
Sep 24, 2009, 2:45 PM
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kyleshea wrote: find a climb that is rated 5.13. climb it. or work it until you can climb it. rest and repeat.
I have a friend who was climbing 5.13b. He went to up his redpoint level to 5.13c. Tried the same route 100 times before he gave up.
Me, I'll admit I don't know shit about what it takes to climb 5.13, but I know one method that hasn't proved 100% effective.(hint^^^)
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jaablink
Sep 24, 2009, 2:58 PM
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It takes a lot of quality hard work on established hard climbs to see 13 consistently. You have to, put in the time, be willing to pull the moves, and you will fall… many people can climb 12 and 13+, it is not uncommon these days. Of those who I know that are exceptional at this craft, they would give this advise… get out of the gym (because it is not the same and you do not understand how to use it yet)… climb with partners who are stronger than you, more seasoned, and will give you the proper motivation…on rest days climb easy, for mileage. Go on road trips to areas with classic grading systems and WORK the classic hard lines. Keep in mind , slabs, face, crack, overhangs…. Require different techniques. You may do well on steep face rock , where a vertical crack may kick your ass until you learn the technique.
CLIMB ALL THE TIME...
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crazy_fingers84
Sep 24, 2009, 3:04 PM
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I will give you the same advice my partner gave me about breaking into 5.13 ...
"climb as hard as you can everyday without getting injured"
Now, with that being said... I trust this guys opinion. He has climbed well over a hundred different 13's and over a dozen 14's. He attributes his breakthrough into 13's to a year long climbing trip he took several years ago, during which he climbed "as hard as he could everyday without getting injured".
good luck.
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camhead
Sep 24, 2009, 3:06 PM
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andersjr wrote: jt512 wrote: glytch wrote: mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever. Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14. Those are all >2 years old. What if he did train that hard, and is now sending 10s, 11s, 12s, or even climbing harder than you and sending 13s? Not everyone runs home from the crag eager to update their rc.com profile to show off to the world how badass they are.
ahh, the "I haven't updated my profile in a few years!" defense. That one is always fun. I have a feeling that if any 5.6 climber on rc.knob suddenly jumped to 5.12, his climbing profile would definitely say so.
Also, to the majid_idiots who say that climbing 5.12 indoors does not mean shit; get a fucking clue. If you mean to say that the fact he climbs consistent 5.12 in the gym would not translate to granite slab/trad, then yes, you're right.
However, assuming that he is climbing on well-set routes and is really sending consistent 5.12/v5-6, it is not unlikely that he would be able to transfer these skills over to a lot of sport destinations like Rumney, the Red River Gorge, Smith Rock, etc.
Gym climbing hard is still climbing hard, and physically (not mentally), it trains you pretty well. Shit, look at one Florida gym-alumnus, Matt Segal, for a good example.
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william.alan.swanson
Sep 24, 2009, 3:09 PM
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JT, you're a dick. We're all really impressed that you live in California and can climb 5.12, but there's no need to be a jackass about it.
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andersjr
Sep 24, 2009, 3:18 PM
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camhead wrote: andersjr wrote: jt512 wrote: glytch wrote: mleogrande wrote: I've been climbing 5.12 for about a year now. I live in Florida so I climb indoor. I've climbed only a few 5.12 outdoor but have no problem sending 5.12 indoor on a consistent basis. I find it extremely difficult to improve now. Does anyone have any advice or experience that could be helpful? It seems like moving up one letter grade takes forever. Training for 5.13, I think, is not dramatically different than training for 5.12 or 5.14. Those are all >2 years old. What if he did train that hard, and is now sending 10s, 11s, 12s, or even climbing harder than you and sending 13s? Not everyone runs home from the crag eager to update their rc.com profile to show off to the world how badass they are. ahh, the "I haven't updated my profile in a few years!" defense. That one is always fun. I have a feeling that if any 5.6 climber on rc.knob suddenly jumped to 5.12, his climbing profile would definitely say so. Also, to the majid_idiots who say that climbing 5.12 indoors does not mean shit; get a fucking clue. If you mean to say that the fact he climbs consistent 5.12 in the gym would not translate to granite slab/trad, then yes, you're right. However, assuming that he is climbing on well-set routes and is really sending consistent 5.12/v5-6, it is not unlikely that he would be able to transfer these skills over to a lot of sport destinations like Rumney, the Red River Gorge, Smith Rock, etc. Gym climbing hard is still climbing hard, and physically (not mentally), it trains you pretty well. Shit, look at one Florida gym-alumnus, Matt Segal, for a good example.
. . . i wasn't defending myself. i know i suck.
(This post was edited by andersjr on Sep 24, 2009, 3:20 PM)
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kyleshea
Sep 24, 2009, 3:34 PM
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shockabuku wrote: kyleshea wrote: find a climb that is rated 5.13. climb it. or work it until you can climb it. rest and repeat. I have a friend who was climbing 5.13b. He went to up his redpoint level to 5.13c. Tried the same route 100 times before he gave up. Me, I'll admit I don't know shit about what it takes to climb 5.13, but I know one method that hasn't proved 100% effective.(hint^^^)
maybe that one route isnt for them! im just sayin that to climb whatever grade you have to work climbs of that grade. all the training, crosstraining, stretching and yoga, pilates and mental conditioning wont do shit if you dont just get out there and get at it. still a bit simplified, but i think you get my point. now screw you for disagreeing, try it again and i'll post your profile with red circles all over it!!!!!!
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jaablink
Sep 24, 2009, 3:40 PM
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One more piece of advice I feel i should give, keep a positive mindset…
Scary, sketchy, frightening, tough
Exciting, fun, thrilling, challenging , adventurous
If you said to a child that a climb is scary. The child will associate that word with the emotion they understand that goes with it. Eventually the child will learn to fear or dislike the activity… If the word scary is replaced with a word like exciting or fun; the child will associate the according - and enjoy the activity and the movements…. Grown up ; we are not so much different from a child. Using words like (Scary, sketchy, frightening, tough…. ) will make you second guess yourself and prevent you from making harder moves. Be fearless and have fun making exciting ,heart pumping, thrilling moves, on challenging - astatically pleasing classic climbs that inspire you....
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shockabuku
Sep 24, 2009, 3:53 PM
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kyleshea wrote: shockabuku wrote: kyleshea wrote: find a climb that is rated 5.13. climb it. or work it until you can climb it. rest and repeat. I have a friend who was climbing 5.13b. He went to up his redpoint level to 5.13c. Tried the same route 100 times before he gave up. Me, I'll admit I don't know shit about what it takes to climb 5.13, but I know one method that hasn't proved 100% effective.(hint^^^) maybe that one route isnt for them! im just sayin that to climb whatever grade you have to work climbs of that grade. all the training, crosstraining, stretching and yoga, pilates and mental conditioning wont do shit if you dont just get out there and get at it. still a bit simplified, but i think you get my point. now screw you for disagreeing, try it again and i'll post your profile with red circles all over it!!!!!!
Blah.
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Sep 24, 2009, 3:55 PM)
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johnwesely
Sep 24, 2009, 4:13 PM
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I live in constant fear that one day JT512 will post my extremely outdated RC.com climbing log to make me look bad.
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