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Kino_no_Tabi
Sep 25, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Hey guys! I'm new in climbing, but I already feel obsessed with it. I try to do some training in the indoor gym whenever I don't have the chance to head to the real rocks, but I can't do it everyday. So, I want to do some daily workout in order to stay fit and strengthen my muscles away from the walls. For now, I just do some push-ups and running up stairs. So, can you please suggest exercises I can do on my own? (Just keep in mind that I can't afford buying a fingerboard, I have yet to save money for the rest of the climbing equipment!!)
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elmayimbe
Sep 26, 2011, 6:13 PM
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If you search the board you'll find dozens of posts similar to yours. The common response is that is great that you're excited about climbing, but as a beginner, you should temper you're enthusiasm to avoid overtraining that leads to injury. If you're climbing 2-3 times / week (gym or outside), that should be plenty for you to make steady progress and allow for rest. For the first couple years, it's generally reccommended that you don't do any climbing-specific training (i.e. fingerboard). Instead, have fun and focus on improving technique. Pushups and other exercises that are not climbing-specific will not really help improve you'll climbing, but could benefit your general fitness and joint stability. If you cannot climb at least twice a week, then I believe hanging on a fingerboard, a few large climbing holds, or a bar could be useful if done very cautiously. If you can use a bar, don't do a lot of pullups. Rather, try hanging with your elbows bent at 90 degrees, then 45, then almost straight (but not locked) - hold each position for about 10 seconds or whatever is challenging (you can off-weight some onto one foot on a stool if otherwise too difficult). Also, once warmed up, instead of wrapping your hands entirely around the bar, partially unwrap to hang just on your fingers. As you hang towards your finger tips (again, be careful not to go too far towards tips), you could hang for relatively short repetitions (like 5-10 sec, rest 3 sec, do 5-10 repetitions, 3 sets) to improve strength or hang for longer (like 30 sec - 1 min) to improve endurance (remember, keep elbows slightly bent). If anything starts to hurt at all, back off / quit. Again, a beginner should only consider something like this if they they can't climb regulary. If that is the case, try is for a few weeks, then rest for a week, etc. It's pretty mundane; not nearly as fun as actual climbing.
(This post was edited by elmayimbe on Sep 26, 2011, 6:14 PM)
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Kino_no_Tabi
Sep 26, 2011, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2011
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Thanks for your reply! That was in fact very helpful! Because sometimes I may overdo it or try too hard... I appreciate it :)
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sef239
Sep 28, 2011, 1:32 AM
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Remember to stretch your fingers and arms for a few minutes before climbing. Then you should warm up with a light route, like a traverse with jugs or an easy problem. Make sure that you are warmed up before trying problems near your limit. I've been climbing a few months now and I used to get pain in my arms from not warming up properly. Stretching is important in helping to prevent injuries that can make climbing painful. Good exercises include leg lifts on pull up bars and planks.
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adelphos
Sep 28, 2011, 5:46 PM
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I just want to echo the sentiment that you really want to take it slow. I would also like to recommend Crossfit for a daily workout. The physical skills developed in Crossfit are highly transferable to climbing. The daily workouts are free and can be found at Crossfit.com. They have a free phone ap as well that I can recommend. My wife and I have used their program for a few years now and can attest to the success of the program. Average workout is about 15 minutes, so it is pretty quick and you get a lot of bang for the buck. We set up a Crossfit gym in my garage for about $200. Great website and program for absolutely no money!
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drake371
Sep 29, 2011, 11:46 PM
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adelphos wrote: They have a free phone ap as well that I can recommend. My wife and I have used their program for a few years now and can attest to the success of the program. Just wondering what is the name of the iPhone app? Also by chance they have an app for "travelling" workouts (i.e. no to little gear while on the road)
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adelphos
Sep 30, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Sure, the name of the ap is simply "Crossfit Workout of the Day." As for travel programs, Crossfit is designed around the idea of functional movement. The point is that you tailor the exercise, intensity and duration based on your skill and the equipment available focused on replicating the movements identified. You don't have a barbell on hand, no problem, lift a tire. In other words, you adapt the exercise to conditions. If you go to the website you'll see lots of examples of athletes doing this in combat zones. There are tons of exercise variation recommendations and a very active support network. Some of the exercises will simply beyond your skill level, so you substitute. In the case of the routine for yesterday, we dropped three of the exercises because we just didn't have all the stuff we needed and it was still brutal. Make sense? EM
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drake371
Sep 30, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Makes sense to me, I been toying with the idea of following a CF workout for awhile and wanted to start doing some of the WOD. Its really just a matter of time before I actually get going. I kinda like the idea of a traveling deck of cards that have various WOD or excersices and you draw randomly which ones to do.
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