|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 6, 2008, 5:31 AM
Post #1 of 24
(22901 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
So I finally got my testing rig built. I now have the ability to test almost any piece of climbing equipment with up to 10,000. lbs of force. This thread is a list of a bunch of things I am going to test over the next few months. I plan to test a bunch of retired 10 20 year old hangers, bolts, chain, quicklinks and rap rings that have been used on sea cliffs that were prone to Stress Cracking Corrosion (CSS). If anyone wants me to test anything specific post up your request and I will consider it. Pic of the rig:
Carabiner that is listed as not for climbing, Safe Working Load 150 lbs.:
- Breaking strength: 3.91 kN (gate pin failure (bottom pin))
- Open gate breaking strength: 2 kN
Metolius carabiner loaded on the nose (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):
- Breaking strength: 2.53 kN (failure at spine)
Mammut 10.5 mm dynamic climbing rope (approximately 4 years old, took about 50 lead falls over the section tested, rough sheath abrasion from running over quickdraws on lead falls but no core exposure, no exposure to chemicals or UV, rope clove hitched to one steel carabiner and one ½ shackle):
- Breaking strength: 6.08 kN (core separation at clove hitch)
- Note: The sheath started ripping at about 4.45 kN, the sheath completely separated well before the core failed. The rope was pulled to 4 5.33 kN approximately 8 times before the final breaking load of 6.08 kN was applied. A overhand not was tied in the middle of the rope to reduce the length of the rope after it stretched during the first few pulls.
Ace Hardware 1/4 plain steel 880 lbs. Safe Working Load quicklink:
- Breaking strength: 20 kN (basket failure over at hanger)
- Note: Quicklink was pulled with a steel carabiner one and end and a climbing hanger on the other end
Three stainless steel Metolius Enviro hangers rated to 22 kN approximately 10 15 years old placed on a sea cliff (prone to Stress Cracking Corrosion):
- Left hanger tested strength: 20.4 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)
- Middle hanger tested strength: 36 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)
- Right hanger tested strength: 37.5 kN (hanger did not fail, quicklink attached to hanger failed first)
- Theorized breaking strength: 38 40 kN
1/4 bolt test (two bolts of each type were tested. The breaking strength of both of the samples were within 100 lbs. so only the average breaking strength is being posted. The bolts were placed through a Fixe brand 40 kN 3/8 hanger with a grade eight 1/4 washer and a grade 8 nut. They were then place through a 1/4 holt in 1/2 thick mild steel and pulled straight down until they sheared in half)
- 1/4 grade 2 bolt breaking strength: 12 kN (shear at bolt head)
- 1/4 grade 5 bolt breaking strength: 20 kN (shear at bolt head)
- 1/4 stainless steel bolt breaking strength: 20.8 kN (shear at bolt head)
- 5/16 grade 2 bolt breaking strength: 16.88 kN (shear at bolt head)
Metolius carabiner loaded over and edge (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):
- Breaking strength: 8.45 kN (basket failure on spine)
- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY
Metolius carabiner open gate test (rated 24 kN major, 8 kN open, 8 kN cross loading):
- Breaking strength: 9.68 kN (basket failure at bottop of spine)
- No picture
Added 11/17/08
Brand new 1 webbing tied in a loop with a water knot that was soaked in Clorox bleach for 5 minutes then allowed to dry for 10 hours:
- Breaking strength: 22.17 kN (failure by material separation over carabiner)
- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjKPuhVIec
Brand new 1 webbing tied in a loop with a water knot that was soaked in sulfuric acid (30% acid, 70% water) for 20 seconds then allowed to dry for 10 hours:
- Breaking strength: 3.01 kN (failure by material separation over carabiner)
- Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9WQku1ckA
The difference between the acid soaked webbing (right) and the bleach soaked webbing (right).
Added June 24, 2009:
In this test I wanted to see the pullout strength of a 3/8 x 2.5 5-piece Power-Bolt in basalt in a 3/8 hole. Although the bolt was used and the sleeves were slightly bent, the bolt was in reasonable physical condition. The bolt was tested in tension mode, not shear mode.
Breaking strength: 6.66 kN (failure by bolt pulling out of rock (rock did not fail))
After pull test:
This test was rather alarming considering the critically low pull out strength of the bolt. It appears the bolt slid out because the cone did not actually engage the sleeve. The cone was simply pulled into the sleeve as the load was applied instead of being pulled through the sleeve.
In this next test I pull tested a 12 mm Triplex bolt in a 1/2 hole. I have seen quite a few people ask if its safe to install these in ½ holes instead of 12 mm ones. The bolt was tested in structural concrete.
Breaking strength: 7.5 kN (failure by bolt pulling out of rock (rock did not fail))
Its worthy to note that the 7.5 kN resistance was not encountered until the bolt was already 1/3rd out of the rock. It only took approximately 4.5 kN to start pulling the bolt out.
Its also worthy to note that I did not change the position of the nut on the bolt after the test. The bolt actually pulled Ύ through the sleeve.
This is how the bolt looked before the test:
Black Diamond dog bone over ½ sharp edge:
Breaking strength: 9.3 kN (failure by material separation over edge)
Next I tested the intermediate stitching of the dog bone.
First stitch failure: 3.55 kN
Strongest stitch failure: 5.46 kN
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 8, 2012, 4:22 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 6, 2008, 5:33 AM
Post #2 of 24
(22892 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
Video added, carabiner over an edge test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2008, 8:50 PM
Post #3 of 24
(22831 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
Looks like the pull testing competition is heating up!
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Nov 6, 2008, 8:54 PM
Post #4 of 24
(22826 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
clicky
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Nov 6, 2008, 9:00 PM
Post #5 of 24
(22816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 7, 2008, 6:50 AM
Post #6 of 24
(22750 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
adatesman wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Looks like the pull testing competition is heating up! I'm game....  USnavy wrote: So I finally got my testing rig built. I now have the ability to test almost any piece of climbing equipment with up to 10,000. lbs of force. <snip> Nice work! I was wondering if you had followed through with building one after the PMs we exchanged. Good to see you followed through with it. Oh, and feel free to knock off any of the proposed tests I have over in the Pull Test Suggestion thread.... I intended that to be a clearing house for anyone to use for testing, not just me. Lots of interesting stuff over there that I haven't had time to get back to. -a.
I should have got the 20 ton frame like you. My 12 ton frame bends a bit once I get in the 8,000 lbs. range. lol When I release the load the whole frame twists back into place.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 7, 2008, 6:52 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 18, 2008, 3:58 AM
Post #7 of 24
(22602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
- Added sulfuric acid and bleach webbing tests as show in original post. Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjKPuhVIec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9WQku1ckA
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Nov 18, 2008, 4:45 AM
Post #8 of 24
(22579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
clicky
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Nov 18, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #9 of 24
(22551 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
Wow, I am amazed that a toy carabiner proved to be stronger than a metolius biner loaded on the nose! Just goes to show how important it is to make sure that biners are loaded properly at all times.
|
|
|
|
|
wiki
Nov 19, 2008, 7:52 AM
Post #10 of 24
(22501 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
|
Cool Rig!
Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?)
We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know  I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 19, 2008, 9:04 AM
Post #11 of 24
(22492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
wiki wrote: Cool Rig! Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?) We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards!
Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Nov 19, 2008, 12:28 PM
Post #12 of 24
(22479 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
You're like a kid with a new toy.
That toy biner held 450lbs, but what will the next one hold? Will they be all over the board? You should disclaimer your thread so people don't think its gospel and go aid climbing on keychains. 
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Nov 19, 2008, 5:37 PM
Post #14 of 24
(22440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off?
For science?
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Nov 19, 2008, 6:41 PM
Post #15 of 24
(22399 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
adatesman wrote: Oh, and feel free to knock off any of the proposed tests I have over in the Pull Test Suggestion thread....
I'm still really curious about the slung nalgene and slung can of spam.
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Nov 19, 2008, 6:47 PM
Post #16 of 24
(22394 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Nov 19, 2008, 6:48 PM
Post #17 of 24
(22388 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
adatesman wrote: knieveltech wrote: I'm still really curious about the slung nalgene and slung can of spam. Seems like I'm going to goof off all day anyway (pulled a green powercam and purple and green u-stem camalots to failure this morning), so I might as well go do the nalgene test I promised you. Results will probably be posted tomorrow or the next day. The can of Spam will have to wait until it gets warm out as I'm not doing that one indoors. 
But just think of how cool an exploding slung can of spam would look on youtube...
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 21, 2008, 6:12 AM
Post #18 of 24
(22335 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
Bolt added 11-20-08, video will be added later tonight.
Stress Cracking Corrosion video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0bmZGcQOu8
Hanger fails at 2.7 kN!
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 21, 2008, 7:21 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
wiki
Nov 21, 2008, 8:41 AM
Post #19 of 24
(22299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
|
USnavy wrote: wiki wrote: Cool Rig! Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?) We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards! Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is.
Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf
General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html 
Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...).
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Nov 21, 2008, 9:38 AM
Post #20 of 24
(22292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
wiki wrote: USnavy wrote: wiki wrote: Cool Rig! Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?) We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards! Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is. Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...).
Eh, just one minute looking at that MSDS and I can already tell you that stuff is dangerous to climbing equipment. It contains ethanol and phosphoric acid, two chemicals you dont want to touch your gear. It has a PH of 1.5 - 2.5 which is extremely low and its listed as a corrosive substance. I can guarantee you that a chemical like this can compromise climbing equipment without testing it. Any substance listed as corrosive needs to stay far away from your climbing equipment.
|
|
|
|
|
wiki
Nov 21, 2008, 9:53 AM
Post #21 of 24
(22289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
|
USnavy wrote: wiki wrote: USnavy wrote: wiki wrote: Cool Rig! Is there any chance of testing some 11mm static rope + harness type webbing soaked in undiluted Metalbrite (phosphoric acid + detergent solution I think...) please? (If you can get hold of it of course!?) We use this stuff whilst abseiling at work and after that sulphuric acid test, I am wondering how much damage it is doing to our gear! It seems to be quite a weak acid but it would be nice to know I know it makes the ropes incredibly slippery and all our metal-wear is super clean afterwards! Can you give me a link to the solution you use? I dont know what Metalbrite is. Technical data here http://www.teco.no/arch/_img/9074669.pdf General stuff here http://www.mchem.co.nz/metalbrite.html Good to see the slings soaked in bleach were still strong - we use that alot too... Would be interesting to see the results after leaving them a couple of weeks before testing - I have a feeling that bleach takes a while to break down stuff (48 hours to kill moss...). Eh, just one minute looking at that MSDS and I can already tell you that stuff is dangerous to climbing equipment. It contains ethanol and phosphoric acid, two chemicals you dont want to touch your gear. It has a PH of 1.5 - 2.5 which is extremely low and its listed as a corrosive substance. I can guarantee you that a chemical like this can compromise climbing equipment without testing it. Any substance listed as corrosive needs to stay far away from your climbing equipment.
Yeah it is definitely not going near my climbing equipment but my work equipment... that's a different story! I, like you, am convinced it is not good for gear (obviously acid and nylon don't mix), just would like to see what it actually breaks at. I still think it isn't as strong as sulphuric acid...
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Jun 25, 2009, 4:56 AM
Post #22 of 24
(21252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
New stuff added today.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jun 26, 2009, 4:17 AM
Post #23 of 24
(21150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
angry wrote: I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off? For science?
Hey John, uh, here, pull my finger. For science.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Jun 26, 2009, 4:28 AM
Post #24 of 24
(21142 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
curt wrote: angry wrote: I kinda want to know exactly how hard I can pull on a finger lock. Could you rig it so I stick my finger in your puller and pull until it comes off? For science? Hey John, uh, here, pull my finger. For science. Curt
Reminds me of the time I almost pulled Angry's sister's finger.
d.
|
|
|
|
|
|
