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jakedatc


Mar 21, 2006, 1:50 AM
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Papounet.. i'm a fan of your set up with the rap rings. however at the moment i don't have any rings so joe's is the next best thing.

i think both of those are great for folks like me that aren't as worried about actually pitching off a ff2 fall but would like a solid equalizing anchor to belay 2nds up to and lead out of


hemp22


Mar 21, 2006, 2:28 AM
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Jake - I like that system too. As you probably know, you can get around the possible drawbacks of the setup as pictured (which include 1) large amount of extension if 1 piece blows, and 2) total anchor failure if the single strand is cut or the double-fisherman's knot unties) by adding a limiter knot to the center strands, as shown on Trango's website
There's another way to fix those concerns also: Use another locking biner clove hitched to 2 of the strands to add redundancy & limit extension (same way that was originally proposed in the gordolette). If you label the 6 strands in healyje's photo #1-6, left to right, then you'd want to attach either strands 2&4, or strands 3&5.
I think the 2nd method does a better job of limiting extension without reducing the possible range of equalization as much as the limiter knot does - but, of course, it's more complicated and requires an additional locker. (and because of that extra biner, it gets too messy to work in a 3-vertical-placements anchor)

Papounet - for first picture, the one you dub the asymmetrical 3-way sliding X, I think that if either the center or right placement fails, you'd be looking at possibly a large amount of extension. This depends on the total length of cord you use to tie into an equalette configuration, of course. But unless I'm missing something, I don't see how it would limit extension for either of those 2 pieces failing.
And, same thing with your 2nd picture with the rap rings - it doesn't really limit extension any different than a basic 3-way sliding X w/ no limiters. So, if your 3 placements started out further apart so that you had 1 leg quite a bit longer than the other 2, then if that leg blows, the there's a lot of extension to be caught on the remaining 2.
Plus, both those rigs fail if 1 strand is cut. (theoretical concern only, I know, but still one that I try to safeguard against.)


jakedatc


Mar 21, 2006, 3:05 AM
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Hemp i did know to throw the limiter knot in the middle. And i'm not a fan of fiddling with attaching certain strands together so the limiter knot will do. Also it crosses over if i ever get a trango AE or build one myself like Papounet did with the small double power point loops and the rap rings.

I'm glad other folks approve of this one.. i'm psyched. Good job Joe.


papounet


Mar 21, 2006, 3:06 AM
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In reply to:
papounet,

Well, it doesn't work any worse either. Also, I prefer using it with a single top biner, not two. And besides, it's prettier than the first of yours and simpler than the second.

dear,

I have attempted to set it up in the following fashion (it is a double fig-8 I believe). please correct me if there is an error

Indeed one biner is enough.
http://img20.imageshack.us/...87/doublefig80bt.jpg

please note that I put the connecting knot on the inside loop. I wouldn't dare call this aesthetic, but at least if the knot was to fail it wouldn't be as catastrophic, or it would not interfere if the equalized piece was to fail

Again, although I find this knot very pleasing, I must say that it uses up a large amount of cord.

here I have used the same piece of 6mm rope to do a symetric 3-way sliding x. please note the angle from the anchor point to the pro.

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5116/3way3vx.jpg

I have replaced your double fig-8 knot by a butterfly knot
http://img20.imageshack.us/...26/butterfly13sd.jpg
which has the adequate property of resisting to pull on both side as well as from within the loop.


My informal testing leads me to believe that:
although your design with 1 biner in the upper position should have the least friction because there is only one biner involved, It is experiencing a high level of friction because any shift to the bottom knot generate an move on the 3 pro biners ( the pulley device has the same issue)
whereas a knot-less design (such as the asymetric 3way sliding x) has more friction as the powerpoint 2 biners but requires only adjustement on 2 of the 3 pro biners and in fact mostly on the central biner.
(this makes it possible to have the knot at one of the outer pro, such as
http://img98.imageshack.us/...aywithknot0mw.th.jpg)


(I discovered this property while trying to use the central shelf part of an equalette to balance 3 points)


According to my informal tests, there is noticeably less friction in the 3 way asymetric sliding x than in any knotted alpine equalizer type.

If nonetheless, one was willing to use a fixed knot systelm, then a butterfly knot would fit the bill.


papounet


Mar 21, 2006, 4:11 AM
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In reply to:
Papounet - for first picture, the one you dub the asymmetrical 3-way sliding X, I think that if either the center or right placement fails, you'd be looking at possibly a large amount of extension. This depends on the total length of cord you use to tie into an equalette configuration, of course. But unless I'm missing something, I don't see how it would limit extension for either of those 2 pieces failing.
And, same thing with your 2nd picture with the rap rings - it doesn't really limit extension any different than a basic 3-way sliding X w/ no limiters. So, if your 3 placements started out further apart so that you had 1 leg quite a bit longer than the other 2, then if that leg blows, the there's a lot of extension to be caught on the remaining 2.
Plus, both those rigs fail if 1 strand is cut. (theoretical concern only, I know, but still one that I try to safeguard against.)

ARRGGHHH, of course you are right, the asymetric 3 way is dangerous if the piece from which the 2 strands goes to the same side of its nearest biner blows, we have major extension. We have to use the symetric version which has worse friction ( there is a sort of pinching between the 2 biners) or we have to add a half turn to the cord
http://img158.imageshack.us/...7/3waytwisted8sb.jpg

On your other remark, I am discussing in detail 3 way load balancing system while trying to avoid discussion on size :twisted:
Since rgold mentionned it I have been intringued by the idea of splitting the balancing from the "reaching".
In a way the equalette central "box" limits the possible extension by using a fixed size sliding "box" and the outer loops provide the reach necessary to bring the pro to the anchor.
basically,we look at carrying a device with a maximum extension predefined by the central loop and a maximum reach defined by the two end loops.
In those last pictures, I have used a 2.4 piece of cord which is way too large to do a 120cm loop. My current prototype of the spider uses slightly more than 6 m of cord split in one central loop 60 cm (finished) and 2 outer loops of 120 cm (finished) I choose those numbers partly because it makes them easy to carry around the torso.
one version I plan to carry on bolted belay route is a half-spider with one 60cm central loop and only one external loop 120 cm. if ther is really a need for reach, I will clovehitch a sling to the free rap ring to create the second end loop.


whereas Vivalargo and mhabicht are considering a "small" central loop that will have at most to balance 2 points (probably 30cm), I am considering one large enough to be used for either balancing 2 points or 3 points without risking too much extension. which may a center loop between 40 and 60 cm


Regarding the failure if the central strand is cut, I am well aware that the redundancy of the "shelf" of the equalette is no longer there


glowering


Mar 21, 2006, 4:24 AM
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Re: Improved sliding x: Is it really safer? [In reply to]
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Ok, let's start off here with the powerpoint. I don't like the idea of two biners for the powerpoint in the equalette based designs. Extra weight, and it will be a pain to clip everything into two biners at an anchor (I clip biners for myself, my belay/redirect, my partner, etc.). I also don't like only clipping to one strand at the powerpoint because there's no redundancy. So here's a proposal...

Tie one strand longer than the other between the limiter knots.

http://img55.imageshack.us/.../5027/loosex14dr.jpg

Then twist the longer strand and clip into the X. The biner runs on one strand (for lowest possible friction) but is backed up by another strand (redudancy). This probably works best in cord (because on webbing it may still get wrapped around itself.)

I tied it extra loose here to show what I mean, but if it's just a little loose, you'll get the effect of sliding on one strand, and the looser strand won't get in the way. Try it you'll like it. Don't tie the loose strand super loose or the limiter knot could slip through the biner.

http://img293.imageshack.us/.../3371/loosex26yq.jpg

Here is the AstroGlide for a 3 piece anchor. It works really well, and only fails in KISS, but I'm coming to the conclusion that any configuration that equalizes 3-4 pieces, provides enough length in the arms to reach a variety of placements, and limits extension is probably not going to be KISS.

Here it is without the limiter knots in yet. The four loops can be left in place and then you rack the whole thing, so it's ready to go for your next anchor.

http://img98.imageshack.us/...1/onesidedone8wi.jpg

Here's a close up on tying the limiter knot on the inside arms. Pinch the two strands going to the middle piece just above the biner, pull out 6 inches on the strand closest to the knot, and tie an overhand. The knot should be about 1-2 inches above the biner (which controls the extension if the middle piece fails). It's actually easy and fast after the first couple tries.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3634/tie6kh.jpg

It will evenly equalize (minus friction) on 3 pieces 33%33%33%. It easily converts to Mhabichtelette/Mike's Glider (DuoGlide) for a 4 piece anchor. Redundant on both sides. It's like a complete anchor on each side. It will get unequal loading if an outer piece fails (33%, 66%), but will only extend 1-2 inches (the loose strand will pull tight). It will get equal loading if the middle piece fails 50%50%.

http://img206.imageshack.us/...6/9585/3piece4mi.jpg

When you're done at the anchor, unclip all 4 loops, untie the limiter knots, then...

http://img48.imageshack.us/.../hangstraight3px.jpg

Give the loops about 4 twists and clip to the big powerpoint biner.

http://img397.imageshack.us/...7/5181/twists9gv.jpg

For a nice twist rack.

http://img397.imageshack.us/...7/9050/racked1xd.jpg

At the next anchor, unclip the four loops, hold the master biner and shake out the twists, spread the two biners and grab the four loops,

http://img238.imageshack.us/...8/2860/spread8cb.jpg

then clip the loops into your 3 or 4 new pieces (Astro or Duo/Mhabichtelette) and you're ready to go again. It takes me less than 30 seconds to go from the racked setup, to a fully equalized, fully redundant anchor with only 1-2" of extension made with 3 biners, and one cordelette. Unlike the AE based rigs it can be setup to limit extension AND allow equalization. Try it, you'll like it!

Here it is in a vertical crack with 3 pieces of pro.

http://img238.imageshack.us/...38/9650/3vert8hj.jpg

Here's a diagram for the forces.

http://img70.imageshack.us/...33/3piecediag6xk.jpg

Of course the simplest anchor is to use the climbing rope with an 8 and/or clove hitches. Everyone should be able to do that (in case you don't have slings/cordelette). However I like to be able to swing leads, and you'd have to build a new anchor to switch leads. It would suck in a self rescue situation especialy with your partners weight on the rope, you would have to build a new anchor and transfer all the weight to it with munter-mules and prusiks (or some other complex, time consuming process), not pretty. It would also take a lot of time and rope to build an equalized, limited extension anchor this way.

The next option is a combination of slings (sliding Xs, sliding Ws, and limited knotted slings). This is the simple, default solution. A few drawbacks though. Look at the limiter knots in the picture directly below. What happens if the placements are in different places? You have to re-tie the limiter knots. Either that or you have to leave the knots far apart enough where there is a relatively lot of extension. If you have 3 pieces, your best bet with slings is probably a sliding-W (I don't see any real advantage of an AE over a sliding-W) with extensions to each piece, but that will take a long time to rig. Or you could clip multiple slings together, but then you've got to figure out each anchor; what combination of slings will work best, in which orientation, clip them all together, and then possibly need to tweak the limiter knots.

Then you have the Sliders such as Mhabicht/(DuoGlide) and the AstroGlide. Left racked as I have shown, they are very fast to set up. All the AstroGlide requires is clipping the loops to the pro, pulling down in the direction of force, and tying the two overhand knots. It will span to cover a large range of placement positions better than anything else I have tried. All equalization really requires is about 1" of movement in the sling material. Any excess movement beyond that just leads to additional extension. So to build an anchor that equalizes and limits extension to the least possible, you are going to have to tie limiter knots for each anchor. The slider designs can be quickly rigged to allow equalization, with only 1-2" inches of extension.

Edited to put info in several posts together.


hugepedro


Mar 21, 2006, 5:07 AM
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In reply to:
healyje asked what I meant when I referred to "the obvious 4-placement solution made with three 2-anchor equalelettes." In the spirit of good clean fun and didactic utility I thought I'd post an illustration of an "obvious" 4-placement solution, with a few comments.
http://i1.tinypic.com/rths1x.jpg
* The design is shown with sliding-Xs equalizing pairs of placements (pick pairs closest to each other), although 2-anchor equalettes or troublettes could be used in the alternative. John Long has written here that his measurements show that the sliding-X equalizes within 10%, but in this design each of them gets half the load, so that would mean equalization within 5%. If that's not good enough for you, just substitute 2-anchor equalettes and add carabiners or, for even better performance, use two troublettes (see my nearby post for another illustration).
* This proposal uses three ordinary webbing runners instead of a long accessory cord runner. Select whatever length runners get you close to the configuration you require for a given layout of placed pro. That will speed construction by reducing tuning.
* In this design (using sliding-Xs as shown) the upper strands each support 1/8 of the load, or half that of some other design proposals, such as mhabicht's, in which the upper strands support 1/4 of the load. This is probably of minor importance.
* As with other 4-placement designs, if one placement fails its pair partner's share of the load (particularly the peak load) suddenly doubles, from 1/4 to 1/2 the total. In some other designs, the force on the remaining leg of cord also goes from 1/4 to 1/2. This is the best-case failure scenario.
* As with other 4-placement designs, the limiter knots for the master point must be tied to allow more extension than that allowed by the upper limiter knots, otherwise a failed placement will result in the load being held by a master limiter knot and the entire load will shift to only two of the placements, not three--the anchor will "fail in half." This is the worst-case scenario.
* This general design implemented with 3 troublettes would appear to have the least sliding friction of any 4-placement proposal made thus far.
* This proposal, especially if made with three sliding-Xs or troublettes, would appear to have the most KISS factor of any proposal thus far (based on a criterion, say, of ease in describing it over the phone). "Honey, I'm on my cell phone here. Can you check RC.com and tell me how to set up that anchor?"
* 4-placement designs are rarely used in practice, so experimenting with them may be amusing and educational but not really of practical value unless the design readily adapts to a 3-placement version. 3-placement anchor designs continue to be posted, even recently, that do not actually balance forces (equalize). The most daunting design challenge appears to be an effective, KISS, 3-placement anchor design that easily adapts to a 4-placement version.

Where did the term" troublette" come from? I've never heard that before.

This design has already been done in this thread. Here's a link to my post of it back on page 43, but the same concept was posted by others much further back. The rig in my pictures works for 2, 3, or 4 point anchors, and you don't have to tie/retie any knots - it's fiddle factor zero. I don't see anything else in this thread that beats it.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...opic_view=&start=637


hemp22


Mar 21, 2006, 7:19 AM
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In reply to:
Ok, let's start off here with the powerpoint. I don't like the idea of two biners for the powerpoint in the equalette based designs. Too much weight, and it will be a PITA to clip everything into two biners at an anchor. I also don't like only clipping to one strand at the powerpoint because there's no redundancy. So here's a proposal...

glowering, I came to the same conclusion that you did about the powerpoint. I don't like needing 2 biners there either. The added weight/bulk is one drawback, but I also take into consideration that after setting up an anchor, I usually belay up the second with a reverso, and I can't fit 2 lockers into the little loop on the reverso. So, I did the same thing as you, and tied it so one strand is longer between the 2 limiting knots, so it works well with a sliding X between the knots.
However, for friction, I found that using a cordalette-length dyneema sling (400cm x 10mm by wild country) was even better than standard cord.
Plus, it's long enough that I could inline figure 8s for the 2 limiter knots without making it too short. the inline 8s allow the rig to switch between a standard equalette and the mhabricht (or astroglide) style rig without having to put biners through the "butt" of a regular fig. 8.


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 8:23 AM
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In reply to:
According to my informal tests, there is noticeably less friction in the 3 way asymetric sliding x than in any knotted alpine equalizer type.

I certainly believe you but think they are both fine.

In reply to:
If nonetheless, one was willing to use a fixed knot systelm, then a butterfly knot would fit the bill.

We looked at an AE with a double butterfly powerpoint awhile back. That and your single one along with most of the other AE rigs all work, but I like the doubled powerpoint cordage the doubled-over 8 delivers and just like the aesthetics of it. At some point this all boils down to personal preference to a degree and I can tell we have somewhat different tastes. I don't like single stranded power points for one. I tend to want either the cordage or biners doubled or both. I also, don't like the rings and personally and wouldn't carry them though I certainly see why you might.

I'm actually not looking for any given rig so much as trying to assemble a collection of component ideas I can pull out of my hat at the next belay with lousy pro. You've got a bunch of them and while they may not be what come to mind first you can be sure I have them cataloged. I'm also looking to understand what are the best options for wall anchors the will be subjected to hauling and ledges. All the ideas are interesting and I think many are within my acceptable "zone" with regard to friction, extension, and equalization.


charlesjmm


Mar 21, 2006, 8:56 AM
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.
The Equalette has definitely initiated a trend of anchor designs based on the notion of linking independent two point anchors.

What I will propose here is a very simple procedure to build one of these types of anchors. The end result turns out to be a mix of some of the great ideas found in this thread, so my contribution really boils down to an alternative rigging procedure which is really simple. For reference purposes a will call it: TIA – Two Inverted As. Follow the pictures…..

http://i49.photobucket.com/...59/carlosjmm/TIA.jpg

1) Start by working from the inside out to set up the cord as in picture 1. Use the clove hitch, figure 8 or overhand to fix the cord to the pieces at the appropriate level.
2) Cord ends are then clipped back to the middle pieces to create the base of the anchor.
3) (Note: I had to join two cordellettes to finish this design) To build the master point (picture 3), leave some slack from the middle piece and make two independent loops for redundancy. By making one loop slightly smaller you will reduce friction at the HMS biner. You can use the clove hitch, overhand or figure 8 to make these loops.

Summary :

1) A very simple custom made procedure suitable for any arrangement of placements. Requires standard rigging skills.
2) Allows complete control over equalization and extension ranges.
3) Gear cost : an extra long cordelette and 2 biners. If a standard size cordelette is used, you’ll have to add 2 slings two create a redundant master point as in picture 4.
4) Readily applicable to 3 and 4 placements. Picture 5 shows a 3 pieces anchor using a couple of ELETs to create the master point.
5) Rigging time : same as if you were building the anchor using the rope.


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 9:18 AM
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http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/.../500/6299complex.JPG

I have to say a bunch of you (Charles, Finger, papounet, Knud) obviously are enamored with this [separate] upper W-shaped structure that results in two strands - one of which you use - to support the lower powerpoint mechanism. In the end I can't quite put words to it, but I don't like either this upper structure or any of the design elements where multiple strands are created but only one is clipped. Again, not sure exactly what bugs me about it all beyond using two parts, but every time I see it it rubs me entirely the wrong way and I wouldn't swap either the equalette or mhabicht's rig for any of the ones based on these structures. I just don't see enough advantages to be had from the complexity within the ellipse compared to an equalette (blue legs). Or if I am going for complexity in that area I'd go for mhabicht's rig every time. Again, it's a matter of personal preference and taste and these types of two-part rigs don't work for me even though they exhibit interesting ideas.


tradmanclimbs


Mar 21, 2006, 1:16 PM
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most of this stuff looks too complicated and uses too many biners. I am a simple climbing bum NOT a freaking enginere. See I can't even spell the damn word :roll: the big thing that has allways turned me off with slidingx is the fact that if one strand cuts you go splat. It has to be really simple, light and redundant. and load quickly on dial up :?


charlesjmm


Mar 21, 2006, 1:34 PM
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In reply to:
I have to say a bunch of you (Charles, Finger, papounet, Knud) obviously are enamored with this [separate] upper W-shaped structure that results in two strands - one of which you use - to support the lower powerpoint mechanism. In the end I can't quite put words to it, but I don't like either this upper structure or any of the design elements where multiple strands are created but only one is clipped. Again, not sure exactly what bugs me about it all beyond using two parts, but every time I see it it rubs me entirely the wrong way and I wouldn't swap either the equalette or mhabicht's rig for any of the ones based on these structures. I just don't see enough advantages to be had from the complexity within the ellipse compared to an equalette (blue legs). Or if I am going for complexity in that area I'd go for mhabicht's rig every time. Again, it's a matter of personal preference and taste and these types of two-part rigs don't work for me even though they exhibit interesting ideas.

Healyje, a close inspection of the MHabitch will reveal it is in fact a 2 separate structures design joined by 2 biners to the lower powerpoint mechanism.

http://i49.photobucket.com/...sjmm/CompMHa_TIA.jpg

Maybe I don’t understand what you mean by “….multiple strands are created but only one is clipped…..”, but in the MHabitch multiple strands have been created but only one is hitched. Is there any difference?

“….I just don't see enough advantages to be had from the complexity within the ellipse compared to an equalette….”. If you call for better equalization, you need the complexity of the MHabitch. In such a case, the difference in complexity lies in how the slack cord (controlling extension) is being used. In MHabitch’s, the slack cord is used vertically while in TIA it’s used horizontally.


papounet


Mar 21, 2006, 2:26 PM
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In reply to:

Healyje, a close inspection of the b---- will reveal it is in fact a 2 separate structures design joined by 2 biners to the lower powerpoint mechanism.

I had been typing a similar answer ....

In reply to:
“….I just don't see enough advantages to be had from the complexity within the ellipse compared to an equalette….”. If you call for better equalization, you need the complexity of the b----. In such a case, the difference in complexity lies in how the slack cord (controlling extension) is being used. In b----’s, the slack cord is used vertically while in TIA it’s used horizontally.
In a spider design we do not use the slack as there is a dedicated piece of cord to limit the extension and in an full equalizer setup, there is not slack because the extension is limited by the smaller amount of cord for the outer arms.

One point of importance:
Ina equalette design, the inner "box" that limits the sliding around can be small because the outer strands are clovehitched.
In a mhabicht mode, the inner "box" should be larger to accomodate for the changes brought by the failure of a pro to the relative position of the limiter knot.


tradmanclimbs


Mar 21, 2006, 2:29 PM
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Both of those contraptions look INSANE!!! how about just slap a screamer on it if it looks sketch and climb the damn thing!!


papounet


Mar 21, 2006, 2:50 PM
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very intersting setup process: extremely straightforward.
But it ends up doubling the connecting cord going to each pro and using single strand to provide the sliding x balancing function in the upper parts.

the end results looks very much like two small equalette for the 2 sets of 2 anchor but you clip only one center strand to be used by the lower sliding X.


papounet


Mar 21, 2006, 2:58 PM
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To use the equalette with one biner, and yet avoid the friction caused by the X of the sliding while using the 2 strands anot risk loosing the anchor if a full arm collapse, one may combine the cordelette joining knot and the stopper knots into a fig-8 done with 3 strands

The singler biner slides on 2 strands and is restrained by the remaining strand.


http://img20.imageshack.us/...alettetripled3iu.jpg

whereas using single strand "may be" ok for outer pieces as they see half of the force, using one strand for the primary anchor does look like something to be avoided.


charlesjmm


Mar 21, 2006, 4:03 PM
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Re: Improved sliding x: Is it really safer? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
.

very intersting setup process: extremely straightforward.
But it ends up doubling the connecting cord going to each pro and using single strand to provide the sliding x balancing function in the upper parts.

the end results looks very much like two small equalette for the 2 sets of 2 anchor but you clip only one center strand to be used by the lower sliding X.

Papounet,

“…..But it ends up doubling the connecting cord going to each pro…..”.

The connecting end going back to the middle anchors will only endure load when failure of it’s pair anchor occurs, otherwise it remains unloaded.

“……and using single strand to provide the sliding x balancing function in the upper parts……”

Using single strand reduces friction thus improving equalization; in case of cord rupture at that precise point, the other pair of anchors will take over.

“…..the end results looks very much like two small equalette for the 2 sets of 2 anchor but you clip only one center strand to be used by the lower sliding X…..”

I´m trying to visualize the 2 equalettes you perceive, but I only see 2 Vs on top supporting another V at the bottom. Besides, 1 pair of anchors of an equalette will not equalize on their own, they need to be connected to another arm (1 or 2 anchors) to achieve equalization; in contrast, one pair of anchors of TIA will in fact equalize on their own. Also, the strand going from the middle anchor to build the master point has enough slack so that no additional load is inflicted to that anchor.

Edited to add :

I have just realized that in a three points Equalette, the collapse of the unpaired anchor will result in a 2 point fixed knot anchor which provides no equalization; therefore, the Equalette would in fact turn into a non equalizing Cordelette; will this resulting configuration handle the load that induced the collapse of the individual anchor?. In the case of TIA, Mhabitch, Astroglide and maybe other designs I forget, the collapse of the unpaired leg will result in an equalizing subsystem, a very important trait to possess.


knudenoggin


Mar 21, 2006, 4:15 PM
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In reply to:
Yes, but you're on a single biner , the other two are either one biner across two x'd strands or two biners on two strands and there is no way to do that without some additional friction
I suspect that twin-'biner sliding over HMPE tape is hardly different than that
of a single 'biner (any snowplowing effect of compressing material before
the metal should be a bit diminished as the twin 'biners present a broader turn
of the tape).

In reply to:
I just happen to prefer the equalette and mhabicht's designs to yours, papounet's, and knudenoggin's.
You raised the point about our showing a single 'biner (to which I argue there's
no problem w/twins), but I must stress the mhabicht problem of running SINGLE
CORD--with single-cord extension back-up! Why are you not concerned about
dropping 50% of some fall force on a single cord? (Note that in my first sketch
of a compound ELET system, I also used single cord; but there one could see
to using thicker rope (e.g., 8-9mm), as it essentially was replacing twin cord
throughout, as opposed to mhabicht's structure which has these shadow
strands standing guard against extension.) So, either you're going, ah, 'i]Lite
in protection, or you're going heavier in cordage for same protection.

I should note that you're also willingly taking the effectiveness/strength of those
mid-level Fig.8 knots loaded in the butt w/o any data!

*kN*


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 4:40 PM
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In reply to:
Healyje, a close inspection of the b---- will reveal it is in fact a 2 separate structures design joined by 2 biners to the lower powerpoint mechanism.

Charles, I object to it being made out of two separate cords vs. a single cord in the equalette/mhabicht.


In reply to:
Maybe I don’t understand what you mean by “….multiple strands are created but only one is clipped…..”, but in the b---- multiple strands have been created but only one is hitched. Is there any difference?
Why not simply use two plain sliding-X slings instead of all the hoopla with a cordalette?

In reply to:
If you call for better equalization, you need the complexity of the mhabicht. In such a case, the difference in complexity lies in how the slack cord (controlling extension) is being used. In mhabicht’s, the slack cord is used vertically while in TIA it’s used horizontally.

I much prefer the slack be vertical and made from the same piece of cord.


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 4:49 PM
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Re: Improved sliding x: Is it really safer? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
One point of importance:
Ina equalette design, the inner "box" that limits the sliding around can be small because the outer strands are clovehitched. In a mhabicht mode, the inner "box" should be larger to accomodate for the changes brought by the failure of a pro to the relative position of the limiter knot.

I would submit just the opposite as the mhabicht is likewise cloved and so actually can have a smaller "box" than an equalette which has no "active" equalization hence the need for a larger "box". The beauty of mhabicht's design is that you have complete control to fine tune extension.

EDIT: papounet, with regard to the photo with an equalette on two points with a triple strand - that's a clever idea, but in that two point scenario I'd probably use John's quad design.


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 4:54 PM
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In reply to:
Both of those contraptions look INSANE!!! how about just slap a screamer on it if it looks sketch and climb the damn thing!!

Tradman, you are so missing the point of this thread...


glowering


Mar 21, 2006, 4:58 PM
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In reply to:
glowering, I came to the same conclusion that you did about the powerpoint. I don't like needing 2 biners there either. The added weight/bulk is one drawback, but I also take into consideration that after setting up an anchor, I usually belay up the second with a reverso, and I can't fit 2 lockers into the little loop on the reverso. So, I did the same thing as you, and tied it so one strand is longer between the 2 limiting knots, so it works well with a sliding X between the knots.

Funny how the simple solution is often right in front of you. I usually use the big biner as my powerpoint. I clip the rope cloved to another locker to it for my connection to the anchor. I clip another locker to it for the belay (re-direct or reverso). My partner clips his connection to the anchor to it. It's nice because it's so easy to clip in and out of, even if there's weight on the anchor.

In reply to:
However, for friction, I found that using a cordalette-length dyneema sling (400cm x 10mm by wild country) was even better than standard cord.
Plus, it's long enough that I could inline figure 8s for the 2 limiter knots without making it too short. the inline 8s allow the rig to switch between a standard equalette and the mhabricht (or astroglide) style rig without having to put biners through the "butt" of a regular fig. 8.

I use 5.5mm spectra cord for my cordelettes. It is stronger than 7mm perlon (but I guess weakens over time with flexing, so should probably be replaced more often) (it is more than strong enough for one strand going to each piece). It is very slippery (must use triple fisherman's), so it would be interesting to see the difference in friction between spectra and dyneema slings (probably both perfectly acceptable). I like putting the biners in the butt of the regular 8 sinces it holds them firmly in place while building the anchor (I also don't see myself building a regular equalette when I can just as easily build the mhabricht). It is also very easy to adjust the placement of the 8-inthebutt if you need to move it (e.g. if one side of the anchor is much higher than the other), it's almost as easy to adjust as a clove hitch. But as mentioned it would be good to do some testing on this setup for stength (although I don't forsee it being a problem).

In reply to:
healyje-The beauty of mhabicht's design is that you have complete control to fine tune extension.

Exactly, and with the AstroGlide as well.


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 5:03 PM
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In reply to:
I´m trying to visualize the 2 equalettes you perceive, but I only see 2 Vs on top supporting another V at the bottom. Besides, 1 pair of anchors of an equalette will not equalize on their own, they need to be connected to another arm (1 or 2 anchors) to achieve equalization; in contrast, one pair of anchors of TIA will in fact equalize on their own. Also, the strand going from the middle anchor to build the master point has enough slack so that no additional load is inflicted to that anchor.
To be honest I probably only go this [separate components design] route if I didn't have a cordalette and then I'd just use three slings in three straight sliding-X's and call it good.

In reply to:
I have just realized that in a three points Equalette, the collapse of the unpaired anchor will result in a 2 point fixed knot anchor which provides no equalization; therefore, the Equalette would in fact turn into a non equalizing Cordelette; will this resulting configuration handle the load that induced the collapse of the individual anchor?. In the case of TIA, b----, Astroglide and maybe other designs I forget, the collapse of the unpaired leg will result in an equalizing subsystem, a very important trait to possess.
Yes, faced with any dubious placements I'd go mhabicht all the way. In bomber placements I'd probably just go with an equalette.


tradmanclimbs


Mar 21, 2006, 5:18 PM
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Healyj I am not missing the point. The point is to come up with a new system that works? I appreciate all the work you guys are putting into it. Most of this stuff is over my head. Come up with something simple enough for me to grasp and I will be verey gratefull 8^) Your picture looks pretty simple but also looks like it is not redundant? Also has a weird knott in it that i don't know how to tie? The system should be simple enough that even AMGA certified TOP ROPE Guides can build it :D

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