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pt
Dec 13, 2003, 4:23 PM
Post #1 of 2
(1355 views)
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Finally, we can unrope! No time for back slapping though, we start running across rocks and ridges, following cairns down an unknown descent in a high and wild place! Darkness is nearly on us, we have maybe 10 minutes of usable light. The descent looks long and epic...
Twelve hours earlier we are approaching our objective, also in darkness. We are excited and a little nervous. Luckily I have done the Black Velvet approach many times so the darkness is no problem on the approach. At the first glimmer of light we bypass the real first pitch by fourth classing up easy ramps to the right. We rope up on a large ledge and I begin leading the first of many pitches. Nice face climbing gets us to the base of a short chimney. Joan leads up the chimney quickly and gets us to the base of the Black Tower. The long chimney pitches loom above. I start up the first of the harder chimney pitches. The climbing is sustained but never desperate with beautiful and varied moves involving lay backs, stems, and pure jams. I only have a single set of camelots to a #3.5 and have to run it out near the end of this long pitch. Joan loves the climbing and arrives with a giant smile on her face. The next pitch seems a little harder at first but then widens to perfect chimney size. A few well placed bolts keep things safe and enjoyable. The position is beautiful and exposed. We arrive on top of the black tower in pretty good time and waste some time enjoying the view. We can allready look down on climbers on Prince of Darkness and we still have a long way to go. The upper pitches are Red Rocks climbing at it's best. wonderfull thin cracks and faces. Nothing too hard but nice and steep and sustained. Every pitch is fantastic and the exposure is awesome. Joan leads the last pitch to the base of the long fourth class ramp that will get us off the wall. We stay roped up for the ramp, but feel comfortable simul-climbing the whole way. A final ledge across an exposed bowl gets us to a large tree and the unroping point. Now the adventure really begins! It is early November and the days are short, luckily we planned for this eventuality and brought a small tikka head lamp. At first we follow the cairns easily and make good progress. Complete darkness overtakes us soon and we start moving at a snails pace, trying to find the next cairn. Soon we are off route and can't find a cairn or trail. I stupidly take us further and further down the wrong gully until we have no idea which way to go! We get cliffed repeatedly and it looks like a long night is ahead of us. We decide to keep trying and slowly wind our way along ridges and down gullies in the darkness heading in the general direction of the giant Luxor spot light. Only in Vegas!! Several hours later we stumble down the last of the gullies and into the open desert. 30 minutes of easy walking gets us to the rental car. Soon we are at Frank and Finas Cosina enjoying chips and salsa and some of the best Carnitas in Vegas.
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overlord
Dec 13, 2003, 4:46 PM
Post #2 of 2
(1355 views)
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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well, at least one good use for all that light pollution vegas causes :wink:
nice one.
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