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Dip
Jun 21, 2011, 5:20 PM
Post #626 of 1159
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Made it to the Gunks for the first time this year yesterday. Felt good to finally get up there. Was dead set on doing Modern Times but once again things didnt exactly work out the way i planned. Been having a hard time finding a reliable parner for gear so i'm in the process of converting two hard boulderers. They both decided they were ready to lead this weekend so we went up High E. One led the first pitch and one led the fun pitch. It was cool but i think i'm good with High E for a while. I've always been one to disagree with everyone who says it's overrated, and i still like it a lot, but i think i've been on it too much.
Anyway after that we had a look at Modern Times but i wasnt sure if my friends were ready for that one, and i was having a weak head day myself so we decided on CCK. Now, i'd never done CCK before, so i really had no idea how EFFING RAD that final pitch is. Wow. I have to admit i was a little intimidated when I pulled up to the little belay pad and looked out the pitch. So glad we decided to do that. I led the pitch then pulled my rope and my friend led on my gear while my other friend belayed him with our second rope. I'm still smiling from that climb.
Thank god it was empty because i forgot how time consuming it can be to go up with a marginally experienced party of three. Fortunately no one else wanted to do the line, because we took forever. All in all it was a great day. Heading back in July and so help me if i have to kindap someone who doesn't mind seconding MT i'll do it. My inability to get on that thing is getting ridiculous.
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jakedatc
Jun 21, 2011, 5:48 PM
Post #627 of 1159
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Dip wrote: Made it to the Gunks for the first time this year yesterday. Felt good to finally get up there. Was dead set on doing Modern Times but once again things didnt exactly work out the way i planned. Been having a hard time finding a reliable parner for gear so i'm in the process of converting two hard boulderers. They both decided they were ready to lead this weekend so we went up High E. One led the first pitch and one led the fun pitch. It was cool but i think i'm good with High E for a while. I've always been one to disagree with everyone who says it's overrated, and i still like it a lot, but i think i've been on it too much. Anyway after that we had a look at Modern Times but i wasnt sure if my friends were ready for that one, and i was having a weak head day myself so we decided on CCK. Now, i'd never done CCK before, so i really had no idea how EFFING RAD that final pitch is. Wow. I have to admit i was a little intimidated when I pulled up to the little belay pad and looked out the pitch. So glad we decided to do that. I led the pitch then pulled my rope and my friend led on my gear while my other friend belayed him with our second rope. I'm still smiling from that climb. Thank god it was empty because i forgot how time consuming it can be to go up with a marginally experienced party of three. Fortunately no one else wanted to do the line, because we took forever. All in all it was a great day. Heading back in July and so help me if i have to kindap someone who doesn't mind seconding MT i'll do it. My inability to get on that thing is getting ridiculous.
Make sure your 2nd is solid for Modern times. i had a friend not make it above the final roof and he had to do some serious prussik thuggary. part of it was my fault for not placing enough gear on the traverse so he might have gone a bit further than necessary but when you're flaming out yourself as a leader then it's hard sometimes to think about that haha.
i still need to do CCK. might be going next week so maybe that will be on the list. the list is very long :P
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Dip
Jun 21, 2011, 5:51 PM
Post #628 of 1159
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jakedatc wrote: Dip wrote: Made it to the Gunks for the first time this year yesterday. Felt good to finally get up there. Was dead set on doing Modern Times but once again things didnt exactly work out the way i planned. Been having a hard time finding a reliable parner for gear so i'm in the process of converting two hard boulderers. They both decided they were ready to lead this weekend so we went up High E. One led the first pitch and one led the fun pitch. It was cool but i think i'm good with High E for a while. I've always been one to disagree with everyone who says it's overrated, and i still like it a lot, but i think i've been on it too much. Anyway after that we had a look at Modern Times but i wasnt sure if my friends were ready for that one, and i was having a weak head day myself so we decided on CCK. Now, i'd never done CCK before, so i really had no idea how EFFING RAD that final pitch is. Wow. I have to admit i was a little intimidated when I pulled up to the little belay pad and looked out the pitch. So glad we decided to do that. I led the pitch then pulled my rope and my friend led on my gear while my other friend belayed him with our second rope. I'm still smiling from that climb. Thank god it was empty because i forgot how time consuming it can be to go up with a marginally experienced party of three. Fortunately no one else wanted to do the line, because we took forever. All in all it was a great day. Heading back in July and so help me if i have to kindap someone who doesn't mind seconding MT i'll do it. My inability to get on that thing is getting ridiculous. Make sure your 2nd is solid for Modern times. i had a friend not make it above the final roof and he had to do some serious prussik thuggary. part of it was my fault for not placing enough gear on the traverse so he might have gone a bit further than necessary but when you're flaming out yourself as a leader then it's hard sometimes to think about that haha. i still need to do CCK. might be going next week so maybe that will be on the list. the list is very long :P
It is freakin neat. Wouldn't mind going back up and doing the direct finish either, it looked pretty great as well.
i heard that about Modern Times. That was a big reason i didn't go up yesterday. The bitch of it is both of the guys i was with are waaay stronger than i am, they just weren't accostumed to the the air. No biggy though, I'm pretty sure it'll still be there in a month.
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jakedatc
Jun 21, 2011, 5:54 PM
Post #629 of 1159
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Dip wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dip wrote: Made it to the Gunks for the first time this year yesterday. Felt good to finally get up there. Was dead set on doing Modern Times but once again things didnt exactly work out the way i planned. Been having a hard time finding a reliable parner for gear so i'm in the process of converting two hard boulderers. They both decided they were ready to lead this weekend so we went up High E. One led the first pitch and one led the fun pitch. It was cool but i think i'm good with High E for a while. I've always been one to disagree with everyone who says it's overrated, and i still like it a lot, but i think i've been on it too much. Anyway after that we had a look at Modern Times but i wasnt sure if my friends were ready for that one, and i was having a weak head day myself so we decided on CCK. Now, i'd never done CCK before, so i really had no idea how EFFING RAD that final pitch is. Wow. I have to admit i was a little intimidated when I pulled up to the little belay pad and looked out the pitch. So glad we decided to do that. I led the pitch then pulled my rope and my friend led on my gear while my other friend belayed him with our second rope. I'm still smiling from that climb. Thank god it was empty because i forgot how time consuming it can be to go up with a marginally experienced party of three. Fortunately no one else wanted to do the line, because we took forever. All in all it was a great day. Heading back in July and so help me if i have to kindap someone who doesn't mind seconding MT i'll do it. My inability to get on that thing is getting ridiculous. Make sure your 2nd is solid for Modern times. i had a friend not make it above the final roof and he had to do some serious prussik thuggary. part of it was my fault for not placing enough gear on the traverse so he might have gone a bit further than necessary but when you're flaming out yourself as a leader then it's hard sometimes to think about that haha. i still need to do CCK. might be going next week so maybe that will be on the list. the list is very long :P It is freakin neat. Wouldn't mind going back up and doing the direct finish either, it looked pretty great as well. i heard that about Modern Times. That was a big reason i didn't go up yesterday. The bitch of it is both of the guys i was with are waaay stronger than i am, they just weren't accostumed to the the air. No biggy though, I'm pretty sure it'll still be there in a month.
Yea.. and with 3 your 2nd would have to reclip the rope back into the pro.. which would make things a bit pumpier than usual..
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Dip
Jun 21, 2011, 6:00 PM
Post #630 of 1159
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
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jakedatc wrote: Dip wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dip wrote: Made it to the Gunks for the first time this year yesterday. Felt good to finally get up there. Was dead set on doing Modern Times but once again things didnt exactly work out the way i planned. Been having a hard time finding a reliable parner for gear so i'm in the process of converting two hard boulderers. They both decided they were ready to lead this weekend so we went up High E. One led the first pitch and one led the fun pitch. It was cool but i think i'm good with High E for a while. I've always been one to disagree with everyone who says it's overrated, and i still like it a lot, but i think i've been on it too much. Anyway after that we had a look at Modern Times but i wasnt sure if my friends were ready for that one, and i was having a weak head day myself so we decided on CCK. Now, i'd never done CCK before, so i really had no idea how EFFING RAD that final pitch is. Wow. I have to admit i was a little intimidated when I pulled up to the little belay pad and looked out the pitch. So glad we decided to do that. I led the pitch then pulled my rope and my friend led on my gear while my other friend belayed him with our second rope. I'm still smiling from that climb. Thank god it was empty because i forgot how time consuming it can be to go up with a marginally experienced party of three. Fortunately no one else wanted to do the line, because we took forever. All in all it was a great day. Heading back in July and so help me if i have to kindap someone who doesn't mind seconding MT i'll do it. My inability to get on that thing is getting ridiculous. Make sure your 2nd is solid for Modern times. i had a friend not make it above the final roof and he had to do some serious prussik thuggary. part of it was my fault for not placing enough gear on the traverse so he might have gone a bit further than necessary but when you're flaming out yourself as a leader then it's hard sometimes to think about that haha. i still need to do CCK. might be going next week so maybe that will be on the list. the list is very long :P It is freakin neat. Wouldn't mind going back up and doing the direct finish either, it looked pretty great as well. i heard that about Modern Times. That was a big reason i didn't go up yesterday. The bitch of it is both of the guys i was with are waaay stronger than i am, they just weren't accostumed to the the air. No biggy though, I'm pretty sure it'll still be there in a month. Yea.. and with 3 your 2nd would have to reclip the rope back into the pro.. which would make things a bit pumpier than usual..
Exactly. Someone would've been staying on the ground. That would've been a little selfish of me. One guy said he didn't mind but i'm sure it would've sucked to make the four hour ride up and just watch.
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gblauer
Moderator
Jun 22, 2011, 1:25 AM
Post #631 of 1159
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Score Zero for the peregrine falcons
Today, as my leader was getting ready to climb Wrist, I noticed a massive turkey vulture with a peregrine falcon wing in it's beak. I think another baby bit the dust. I saved a feather and will bring it to the rangers.
Have I mentioned how wonderful it is to climb at the gunks during the week? It's so quiet!
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jakedatc
Jun 22, 2011, 2:14 AM
Post #632 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: Have I mentioned how wonderful it is to climb at the gunks during the week? It's so quiet!
been there.. it is pretty awesome.. "hey wanna warm up on Bunny?" Ok, wow there's not a guide with 8 top ropers on it woo!
hoping to be down sometime next week during the week. or earlier in the week depending on how rumney weather shakes out.
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dagibbs
Jun 22, 2011, 3:36 AM
Post #633 of 1159
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I so need to make it down to the Gunks sometime.
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Dip
Jun 22, 2011, 12:03 PM
Post #634 of 1159
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In reply to: Have I mentioned how wonderful it is to climb at the gunks during the week? It's so quiet!
It's the only time i'll go. That means i can only get there a few times a year, but so be it. It's just too much of a zoo on the weekend to be worth it.
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losbill
Jun 22, 2011, 12:24 PM
Post #635 of 1159
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Hey Gail --- Wow! What a great two days. Hope the weather gods smile on you for the remainder of the week. Pretty sure Father's Day impacted climbing everywhere. I low keyed it. Hit Crow Hill Saturday for a casual bouldering session. Brought the harness "just in case I ran into someone I knew"! Got the bouldering in and hooked up with two separate group of friends, including Kurt and Rachel, for a top rope workout complete with beers afterward! Excellent time! Same thing on Sunday but no beers, had to scoot home for FD's steaks on the deck. Are you going to be around this weekend? I am coming down with Alex.
Chad - Turned a corner at Crow Hill on Saturday afternoon and saw we had a new addition to the crag, a inuksuk. I assume one of the Crow Hill denizens is following this thread.No camera with me. I will get a shot of it and post up when I do.
Greg - not going to make BH. I know it will be a great time but now that I'm back at work full time I just can't make it. I will catch up with you soon.
Dip - great report. CCK is a blast. The Direct is excellent as well.
DA - Sounds like a very enjoyable weekend. Good job on Ron's Climb. Good practice for the Gunks where overhangs abound! Give us an head's up when you head down.
Josh and Tiff - have fun! Wishing a very enjoyable trip for you!
Bill
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rangerrob
Jun 22, 2011, 2:34 PM
Post #636 of 1159
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Dip I'll be the first one to say High E is WAAAAY overrated. I think those that think it is the best 5.6 in the Gunks probably haven't done all the 5.6's worth doing. Here is a short list of what I consider much better 5.6's at the Gunks.
Moonlight
Madame G's
Maria
The Last Shall Be First
P2 of Directissima
Middle Earth
All of those climbs have better climbing on them. The Last Shall Be First might be the best overall 5.6 in the Gunks for it's climbing sequences, and the noticable lack of gear during the crux.
About the only 5.6 that High E is better than in the Gunks is Shockley's Ceiling. The only reason I like Shockley's is because it has a killer 5.3 section on it that is some of the best climbing at it's grade!
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jakedatc
Jun 22, 2011, 2:51 PM
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rangerrob wrote: Dip I'll be the first one to say High E is WAAAAY overrated. I think those that think it is the best 5.6 in the Gunks probably haven't done all the 5.6's worth doing. Here is a short list of what I consider much better 5.6's at the Gunks. Moonlight Madame G's Maria The Last Shall Be First P2 of Directissima Middle Earth All of those climbs have better climbing on them. The Last Shall Be First might be the best overall 5.6 in the Gunks for it's climbing sequences, and the noticable lack of gear during the crux. About the only 5.6 that High E is better than in the Gunks is Shockley's Ceiling. The only reason I like Shockley's is because it has a killer 5.3 section on it that is some of the best climbing at it's grade!
i think Wrist especially P2 is better than Last shall be first and Middle Earth. Bloody bush should be added to the list too. P1 is so much fun.
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Dip
Jun 22, 2011, 3:00 PM
Post #638 of 1159
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rangerrob wrote: Dip I'll be the first one to say High E is WAAAAY overrated. I think those that think it is the best 5.6 in the Gunks probably haven't done all the 5.6's worth doing. Here is a short list of what I consider much better 5.6's at the Gunks. Moonlight Madame G's Maria The Last Shall Be First P2 of Directissima Middle Earth All of those climbs have better climbing on them. The Last Shall Be First might be the best overall 5.6 in the Gunks for it's climbing sequences, and the noticable lack of gear during the crux. About the only 5.6 that High E is better than in the Gunks is Shockley's Ceiling. The only reason I like Shockley's is because it has a killer 5.3 section on it that is some of the best climbing at it's grade!
I actually did like High E better than Madame G's, but not to the point where i'd argue over which is better. I could see where Madame G's would be more appealing to some. I just feel like High E is a decent route to take relatively new climbers up, as it only has that one kinda heady move and the rest is just fun exposed climbing. Well, the rest of the last pitch anyway. Like i said i can see the appeal of some of the others.
Haven't been on any of the other 6's you listed. Tried to do Shockley's the first time i was ever there but couldn't figure out where the route went. Might check it out sometime.
Next time I go, as previously mentioned, i'm all about getting Modern Times done, and after that i'll have to figure out what else i want to get on, maybe something from your list, maybe something a little harder, who knows. The great thing for me about the Gunks is it doesnt matter if you feel like logging mileage over easy ground or if you feel like challenging yourself a little, there's plenty of routes there for either.
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sethg
Jun 22, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #639 of 1159
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I happen to like High E and Shockley's but if you're making a list of great 5.6 climbs then in addition to all the great ones mentioned I think Baby should be included. Both pitches are high quality and very different. Credibility Gap too.
And if individual pitches on harder climbs can be included then also include the third pitch of Yellow Ridge (or the second pitch of Basking Ridge from the other side is even better), the second pitch of Drunkard's and the second pitch of Bloody Mary. All outstanding and 5.6.
One of the best grades at the Gunks.
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sethg
Jun 22, 2011, 4:41 PM
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And Disneyland and Frog's Head.
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dagibbs
Jun 22, 2011, 4:44 PM
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losbill wrote: DA - Sounds like a very enjoyable weekend. Good job on Ron's Climb. Good practice for the Gunks where overhangs abound! Give us an head's up when you head down. Bill
Thanks. Will do.
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sethg
Jun 22, 2011, 4:44 PM
Post #642 of 1159
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And the two best overall 5.6 climbs in the Gunks are obviously Madame G's and Maria.
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Dip
Jun 22, 2011, 5:15 PM
Post #643 of 1159
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sethg wrote: I happen to like High E and Shockley's but if you're making a list of great 5.6 climbs then in addition to all the great ones mentioned I think Baby should be included. Both pitches are high quality and very different. Credibility Gap too. And if individual pitches on harder climbs can be included then also include the third pitch of Yellow Ridge (or the second pitch of Basking Ridge from the other side is even better), the second pitch of Drunkard's and the second pitch of Bloody Mary. All outstanding and 5.6. One of the best grades at the Gunks.
Baby... i am probably the worlds worst off-width climber. The first time i was ever at the Gunks i strolled up to that thing thinkin i was all tough and 5.6 would be a walk in the park. Silly me, learned a lesson that day.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 23, 2011, 6:55 PM
Post #644 of 1159
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Dip - good choice about MT, but you'll get there at some point. If we happen to be at the 'Gunks at the same time this summer then I'll take a ride on it with you. I led it last year, so I don't mind giving up the lead this year.
Jake - bummer about the rain. If it clears up for Friday then we may make it there, but I don't think that will happen.
Bill - Damn, that's too bad. I was really looking forward to seeing you there.
Thread - felt good climbing at Cathedral and Cannon the past couple of days. Cannon was going great...and then there's the write-up I hope to do in the next couple of weeks. 
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 24, 2011, 8:20 PM
Post #645 of 1159
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Rained out on Thursday  , although i did tear it up in the gym.
Hoping to get out a few days next week, then North Conway over the 4th weekend.
I got big goals up there this year, but Tiff hasn't been climbing very much because of school, so I probably won't push it too much. It IS our delayed anniversary weekend, after all.
As far as Gunks on the weekend, there is tons of good climbs that are not done very much. If you climb harder or are willing to walk further, you can avoid the crowds.
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Jun 28, 2011, 3:01 PM
Post #646 of 1159
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Alright, finally an update from me.
Made it to North Conway and Cannon with N/A and a couple of other lurkers here on the knob. Shit happens.
Hangs Head.
Running over Kittens at Cannon
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 28, 2011, 5:04 PM
Post #647 of 1159
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This weekend was alright. I gave my friend an intro to aid climbing for a couple days, then set about to practice my solo technique on Invisible Airways at Looking Glass. The route "stays dry" because it's under a roof, but the storm of the century came up from the other side, pelted me with hail, and turned the route into a waterfall. Fortunately, I made the call to bail once the thunder got close, and I was off the wall before the badness happened. I definitely have some hail-sized bruises. It was a good time, though, because I met another group that was in the area as we took shelter under a roof.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 28, 2011, 5:10 PM
Post #648 of 1159
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^^ been there done that...ouch!
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blueeyedclimber
Jul 1, 2011, 7:43 PM
Post #649 of 1159
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Not really a weekend report, but two days in the Gunks. Let me first say that weekday climbing in the Gunks is Awesome. We did not see anyone while climbing on Wednesday at the Trapps. The only people we saw were on the carriage road and a couple parties at the base of High E as we passed by. There was absolutely NO ONE at the nears yesterday.
Max and I got in 8 pitches each day. Wednesday we did CCK direct, Erect Direction, Keep on Strutting, Bonnie's Roof direct, and Ants Line. Thursday we did Broken Sling, Elder Cleavage, and Roseland (did anyone else know that it has 3 pitches?).
It was a very good "weekend." I love being a teacher in summer :)
Josh
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jakedatc
Jul 3, 2011, 3:44 AM
Post #650 of 1159
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well it's one weekend late but i suppose i can share what i did with Angry
Lead: erect direction p1, Son of EasyO, bloody mary p1/morning after p2, Hans Puss p1, Gelsa P1, part of Oblique Twique (used my big gear early and didn't have it for the crux...bailed and let john do it)
Follow: Laurel, Erect direction A0 p2/3(Ridiculissima is not a good warm up for this.. arms were toast) , Ridiculissima(such a good route.. so pumpy but good), Jean, Lisa, The Spring, Harvest moon(flail/A0), Madamn G's, feast of fools P1, part of The Summer
Also climbed some of those with Aric and Travelguy.. good times had by all.
It was pretty kick ass following John on the hard routes.. watching a guy who's trad grade is practically the same as sport grade at an even higher level than what we were doing is pretty fun. I mean the guy did Madamn G's in 1 pitch with 6 pieces of pro.
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