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Gmburns2000
Nov 6, 2010, 7:23 PM
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Had a week's worth of great climbing in the New River Gorge. It's funny, but I never really enjoyed single-pitch climbing that much, but the New may have changed that forever. The rock, the views, the people...there were a ton of ups and downs over the course of a week-and-a-half, but the ups definitely made up for any of the downs. I left smiling, a lot! 
It's All About Commitment is now up. I hope you enjoy it and, as always, thanks for reading...
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Express
Nov 7, 2010, 4:12 AM
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Glad you had fun out there. I was there for a month this summer and I dunno if I would agree about all the "trustifarians" at Roger's. You've got to watch for the difference between your weekend warriors and your long-haul folks. Those are mostly two very different crowds, and I met only a few trust fund hippies while I was out there.
A few other notes in response to your blog post:
1. Summersville lake is a little sandbagged, even for the New, but there are some awesome routes in there. Sorry to hear that you didn't get on "She Got the Bosh," that one is a very fun problem.
2. Runout is kind of a relative term at the New. Bolts can be a bit spaced out at times, compared to the Red or the Obed, at least.
3. I'm surprised you didn't get down to Endless Wall. That should be a must for your next trip. There's also a lot more to explore in Kaymoor on your next trip. If you're pretty solid on 10s, you will really enjoy the Rico Suave Arete.
Your post makes me wonder if I should post up my story about my red hot climbing summer. Anyhow, sounds like it was fun fun trip. Maybe I'll see you out there sometime.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 9, 2010, 10:04 PM
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Express wrote: Glad you had fun out there. I was there for a month this summer and I dunno if I would agree about all the "trustifarians" at Roger's. You've got to watch for the difference between your weekend warriors and your long-haul folks. Those are mostly two very different crowds, and I met only a few trust fund hippies while I was out there. A few other notes in response to your blog post: 1. Summersville lake is a little sandbagged, even for the New, but there are some awesome routes in there. Sorry to hear that you didn't get on "She Got the Bosh," that one is a very fun problem. 2. Runout is kind of a relative term at the New. Bolts can be a bit spaced out at times, compared to the Red or the Obed, at least. 3. I'm surprised you didn't get down to Endless Wall. That should be a must for your next trip. There's also a lot more to explore in Kaymoor on your next trip. If you're pretty solid on 10s, you will really enjoy the Rico Suave Arete. Your post makes me wonder if I should post up my story about my red hot climbing summer. Anyhow, sounds like it was fun fun trip. Maybe I'll see you out there sometime.
the trustafarians were out in force while I was there, and some of them were actually living there, but yeah, as I noted near the bottom of the post, most of those who were living there turned out to be pretty cool.
We did get down to Endless, but only for Discombobulated (sp?). That was a rainy day and my partner was leaving. The only other climb we did was Flight of the Gumbie down at Kaymoor, and you're right, there's some great climbing down there.
I didn't think any of the sport climbs were runout, only a couple of gear routes.
Thanks for reading and yeah, maybe we'll run into each other next year. I'll be back for sure.
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rtwilli4
Dec 28, 2010, 1:34 AM
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I think you're being a little quick to judge the locals. You're right, most of us aren't dirt baggers at all. We live there, work, and make pretty good money from the tourism in Fayetteville. I worked nearly 40 hours a week over Gauley Season and made better money than a lot of people who own their own house. And if you had asked, you would know that ROGER charges half price (less than $100/month) to anyone who is staying for a while. So no, we don't live in shitty apartments in town for $200/month. We also share food, so no one has to race to get day old bagels.
The students in New Paltz are poor because they (or mom and dad) pay a lot of money to go to school instead of working.
To be a Moab dirtbag you have to pay $9 a night to stay in a hostel. Otherwise, you'd have to drive at least 30 miles from any good climbing and/or free camping to get the free lunch. And btw, free lunch is going to stop soon because too many dirtbag climbers are taking advantage of a social program that was designed to benefit Moab residents. The free health clinic will probably be next.
Roger's isn't for everyone, but maybe you didn't meet the real crowd. Sure there are trustafarians everywhere, but I find it hard to believe that you met any real ones who were living at Roger's. I always make my own money when I'm there, and so do the rest of the people I live with.
I've been a real dirtbagger and it got old. I was tired of being hungry, borrowing gear, and focusing harder on how to stay warm at night than where to climb the next day. Most of the Roger's crew has the same story. SO, we decided to stay in one place for a while and make money. What's wrong with that?
And who's "Rocky?"
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Dec 28, 2010, 1:47 AM)
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rtwilli4
Dec 28, 2010, 1:44 AM
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HA... No way! After a bit more reading I know who you are! I was the guy who lived in Thailand, we talked about Cochamo Valley one night. I think you even mentioned your name on RC.com.
Unfortunately you met some of the sadder souls that night at the fire.... one in particular that I hope doesn't return to Roger's any time soon. It was, in fact, a stranger crowd than last time I lived there.
I see that Stella put you in your place on your blog ;) I should have known! And for the record... her dreads definitely are from being dirty!
Have a good time in Chile... hope to see you again at the New someday!
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Gmburns2000
Dec 28, 2010, 1:57 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: HA... No way! After a bit more reading I know who you are! I was the guy who lived in Thailand, we talked about Cochamo Valley one night. I think you even mentioned your name on RC.com. Unfortunately you met some of the sadder souls that night at the fire.... one in particular that I hope doesn't return to Roger's any time soon. It was, in fact, a stranger crowd than last time I lived there. I see that Stella put you in your place on your blog ;) I should have known! And for the record... her dreads definitely are from being dirty! Have a good time in Chile... hope to see you again at the New someday!
Hehe...
Yeah, I remember the conversation, though with so many different people there I can't place you exactly (based on the conversation).
I feel a little better knowing the crowd that was there when I was there was a little off. I mean, it just seemed kind of crazy, and to get some confirmation of that is good. There were some really good folks there, and I hope that came through later in the post. I really didn't mean to slam anyone, though I can certainly see how that may have come off.
I do feel bad about Stella taking my comments the wrong way. I did not mean for that comment to be about her. There was no doubt her dreads were real, and I actually enjoyed her company (I forget her BF's name off the top of my head, but his company, too). I was talking about someone completely different.
If you think about it, "Rocky" is pretty obvious. Probably the most popular person at Roger's. I really liked him. Twas a cool dude.
Thanks for the wishes in Chile. Where are you these days? I hope you're getting out.
edit: clarification
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Dec 28, 2010, 1:59 PM)
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