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Re: [rgold] Factor 2 fall - belay device:
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walkonyourhands
Jun 26, 2010, 9:43 PM
Views: 2236
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 128
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rgold wrote: Direct belays off the anchor as Adan pictured may work for modern double-bolted anchors, but I think almost all climbers would consider them inappropriate for real trad anchors in the field. The redirected plate pictured will definitely not be effective for belaying a leader; it will be far too difficult to pump out slack for clips. Use a Munter hitch for this situation.
I'd say that the belayer can unclip the redirect after the leader gets a number of decent pieces in.
It's great to hear your perspective on these things, that's valuable information. Thanks.
What I'm missing in this and in similar debates is discussion about the way the current (young) elite handles these things. Of course, there's a lot of risk assessment involved when it comes to high-end climbing, but it would be interesting what techniques and devices the top climbers use. I'm sure that many of them haven't used a hip belay even once.
The integration of this view could offer a less pessimistic perspective.
Edited to add:
IIRC, tests done by the German/Austrian Clubs (again  ) seem to show that high-friction tube devices offer equal or better braking power compared to a munter hitch on the higher AND lower ends of rope diameters. In the middle range, the munter wins.
I think Adan has linked to the study recently.
(This post was edited by walkonyourhands on Jun 26, 2010, 9:53 PM)
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