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jwood
Jul 24, 2006, 4:09 AM
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Great story. Thanks.
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cjsimpso
Jul 24, 2006, 4:15 AM
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Wow, great story and great lesson. I'm tremendously sorry that you've had to deal with all of the pain and suffering, but it is good that you're sharing the experience and learning from it.
I also think its important to point out how lucky you are to have such a supportive group of friends here, especially healy. Good friends make all the difference.
Best of luck on the rest of your recovery, and climb safe.
Chris
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jsj42
Aug 5, 2006, 1:14 AM
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Well, the latest update is that I've been able to redpoint five 5.12's (both gear routes and bolts) in the past two weeks. Numerically, that means I'm climbing much harder than I ever did before the accident -- I've never ticked so many 12's in such a small time frame before. Strangely though, I know that I'm physically much weaker. There are still days that when I wake up in the morning I can't stand up on my feet, and I have yet to do calf-raises with my left leg.
My friend Luna once said that climbing is mental, and if you believe you can climb 5.13, 5.14, you can, and will. I didn't believe him at the time, but now I do.
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majid_sabet
Aug 5, 2006, 3:23 AM
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Well ,you edited your post 13 times and that is bad number to start with so if you could edit one more time to make 14 , I be happy.
You may call yourself lucky; I say your time was not up, your body is going to get fixed up but take care of your soul.
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jsj42
Aug 5, 2006, 3:54 AM
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...I'm also taking donations to buy a helmet. Got my eye on that Meteor III, Majid.
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htotsu
Aug 5, 2006, 3:34 PM
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I just read this entire thread, and I'm just amazed. The original story, told with sobriety and yet also with such grace and humor. The support and similar stories. The person who made efforts to help to raise money to help with the medical bills - it's just overwhelming.
J, I am so glad to see how you've progressed, and thank you for sharing this incredible story. I will add to those who think you should submit this somewhere, but I'll add that I could even see it as a diary sort of thing (aka including the subsequent recovery and return to climbing info). I can't imagine any climbing mag not wanting to print it, and to pay you for the privilege.
So based on prev. posts, you should have had knee surgery. I take it that went well? Have you decided about Nursing school? Wow, what a sympathetic caregiver you would make. Any patient who says, "you don't know what this pain feels like" is in for quite a story. All the best.
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healyje
Aug 9, 2006, 7:14 AM
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Josh,
Glad to hear the news. My partner and I hope to be out to Eldo in the fall and will give you a shout.
Joseph
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beny
Aug 16, 2006, 3:53 PM
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just another josh sighting: he was seen two weekends ago on spearhead, climbing .12a in a light drizzle. how is this possible? i personally witnessed him from above, although he didn't see my wife or i at all. he didn't even get an early start. i don't think they even got on route til 10. but no prob for josh. you don't need an ankle that bends to climb hard routes or runout slabs (like he was doing on chiefshead the next day). who is this guy? and i think he probably has enought metal in his lower joints to set off a detector at the airport.
josh, i'm like a woman because i used to be a woman. yes, its true. how do you think my boobs got so big? its not roids. don't let the hairy, monkey body fool you. i am as much a woman as janet reno.
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crankyclimber
Aug 16, 2006, 4:42 PM
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My fiance likes to solo easy stuff 5.6 and under. I don't like it but it is his choice. I did tell him if he falls and is disabled or needs care for choosing to solo, he is going home to Wisconsin so his mom can take care of him. He recently started wearing a helmet for the first time in 14 years. Perhaps this story will have an impact on the soloing. Thank you so much for sharing your story. I wish you a full recovery.
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valeberga
Aug 16, 2006, 5:33 PM
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In reply to: Healyje, one way of dealing with those things is to read a book on statistics. You will realize that luck isnīt in the equation probabilities are.
I would argue that failure while climbing in fact has nothing to do with probabilities, either. Probability is just a substitute for that which we do not know, but would like to predict. The fact is that this climber (with all due respect to the climber of course) didn't know exactly how well his footwork had to be to stay on the wall. But there was no probability or percent chance that his foot would blow; rather there was an apparently inadequate amount of care given to the footwork. So really the only thing left to be defined as "probability" is simply the climber's own probability of judging the move properly.
Oh yeah and great recovery man!
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foodlovur
Oct 31, 2006, 8:10 AM
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Hey there.
I tried PMing you (did I just actually write PMing? what is the world coming to?), about eight times, and kept getting error messages, so I thought I'd try this... ~LeeAnn
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coldclimb
Nov 2, 2006, 12:44 AM
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Wow, I'm surprised I've missed this for so long. Striking story man, thanks for wiriting it up and sharing.
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jsj42
Mar 19, 2007, 4:38 PM
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Well, two weeks ago I finally climbed my first 5.13. I kinda hoped I'd climb it before the one year anniversary of falling, but hey, one year and two months isn't that bad all things considered. Unfortunately the 13 wasn't Ruby's Cafe (which is still kicking my butt), but I think I'm still physically weaker than I was a year ago. I'm climbing a number grade harder though which begs the obvious question, how?
IMO it is that ever since I wrote that TR I started believing that I was capable of climbing at this level (not that I would eventually get there at some point in the future, but rather that I was capable right now).
If I fell because I wasn't strong enough, I concluded that I just wasn't recruiting enough muscle fibers on that particular go. If I couldn't do a move, it was because I hadn't figured it out yet. If I pumped off the top it was because I hadn't dialed the rest of the climb enough... But the primary thing, as I said earlier, is that somehow I started to believe I was capable. And, clearly, I am. It reminds me of something I read in Horst's "How to Climb 5.12." He said that anyone who is reasonably athletic should be able to climb 5.12. The rest of the book basically attempts to eliminate the various barriers to reaching that goal. I wonder though... perhaps anyone can climb 5.13. Or 5.14... Certainly if I can do it you can.
(This post was edited by jsj42 on Mar 19, 2007, 4:41 PM)
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djoseph
Mar 20, 2007, 3:55 PM
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Extraordinary... thanks for the update. And congrats on the accomplishments.
I'd say that your story is worthy of a mag write-up or a slideshow at Neptune or something.
Dan
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miademus
Mar 27, 2007, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
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Yesterday was the first time since i read your thread, no one could tell it better then the man himself.
Well you had a hard time then, it's amazing you climb that hard, so you broke your pleateu atleast.
There is so much more i like to tell you....but for now...bye
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