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timstich
Oct 25, 2006, 12:30 PM
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Not to change the subject... :lol:
But what route was the other party that got rescued on and what reasons did they give for needing help? I assume someone was on the 1938 line, correct? Also, did anyone summit that day? I don't know if you just got out of there after that or spent the night in Kleine Scheidegg or nearby talking to other climbers.
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uasunflower
Oct 25, 2006, 12:51 PM
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other party was on normal (1938) route, the leader fell 20m and got stopped by his partner on the second snow field i believe, with bassin/back injuries. Don't know if anybody summitted - didn't see anyone else on the N Face, although met some people on the train going to Jungfraujoch, so maybe they did smth on the other side...
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timstich
Oct 25, 2006, 12:54 PM
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Ouch. Glad the other party got the heli.
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olderic
Oct 25, 2006, 1:36 PM
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In reply to: as are your statistics... ;) (or maybe not :!: :?: :shock: :lol: )
You know what Mark Twain said about statistics....
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adnix
Oct 25, 2006, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: You know what Mark Twain said about statistics.... |
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thomasribiere
Nov 3, 2006, 9:18 PM
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By reading this TR, I think the only mistake was to climb a route called Le Chant du Cygne!
Climbing over one's level, trying stuff on mythical mountains, is a personal approach of mountaineering and life in general. This decision was taken by two consenting adults. An incident occured, but otherwise they might have finished this ascent.
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jefffski
Nov 7, 2006, 12:32 AM
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here is what i read:
-we planned a very hard route, way over my lead limit. my partner leads that hard in the gym though.
-we didn't plan for snow
-when it started to snow we kept going
-we got wet
-my partner fell on a very hard pitch because it was wet.
-if we were not in europe we would have died.
moral
-plan for snow
-when it snows, retreat
-don't count on a helicopter
-don't get wet
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uasunflower
Nov 7, 2006, 12:46 PM
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don't really want to go back to this debate, but i love how people assume things from random readings based on their personal experience or expectations...
In reply to: here is what i read: -we planned a very hard route, way over my lead limit. my partner leads that hard in the gym though. -we didn't plan for snow -when it started to snow we kept going -we got wet -my partner fell on a very hard pitch because it was wet. -if we were not in europe we would have died. moral -plan for snow -when it snows, retreat -don't count on a helicopter -don't get wet
few remarks i just couldn't withhold :
- my partner has onsighted 7a outside as well as inside and leads comfortably 6c on gear, meaning this route was well within his leading abilities, however not exactly mine
- there was a reasonable chance for our survival after an uncomfortable bivy IMHO
- how and why would you plan for snow on a rock route?
- retreating just because it snows seems like too straigtforward a principle for me
- not getting wet is even harder although i love aiming for it each time i go out...
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 7, 2006, 1:20 PM
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Bunch of wanker moday morning quaterbackin armchair mountainers :roll: great story and a good shot at a hard climb.
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jefffski
Nov 7, 2006, 4:03 PM
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"Renaud goes up. The going is still 6a, still slab, with few bolts in sight. It has been snowing for already 2 hours;... .he’s strong, he’s fit, he onsights 7a in the gym, "
and
"everything is now completely soaked – starting with my down jacket,"
so you would have survived overnight with a wet down jacket? that is the best reason to plan for bad weather.
and as i claimed you only mentioned that he has climbed 7a in the gym. now your outside with packs. that's warped. i hope you get charged with 'causing a rescue' a la yosemite.
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uasunflower
Nov 7, 2006, 4:22 PM
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In reply to: so you would have survived overnight with a wet down jacket? that is the best reason to plan for bad weather. and as i claimed you only mentioned that he has climbed 7a in the gym. now your outside with packs. that's warped. i hope you get charged with 'causing a rescue' a la yosemite.
i know what you're referring to - i wrote it :wink:
imagine - yes, it is possible to survive, even with a wet down jacket. Remind you it's not yet winter here, maybe 0 degrees C would be reached at night at our altitude, so it's not a heroic deal on our part to survive, anyway it's all assumptions - but this is not himalaya or alaska either, no need to exagerate.
editted to add that we've had temps in the 20s (celcium) here through the month of november, global warming man, soon down jackets will become obsolete... :roll:
'onsights 7a in gym' in this case was intended as pun, i hope you do not believe us crazy enough to train in the gym and afterwards go climb eiger northface. Renaud does onsight 7a outside and inside, as mentioned in my previous post, whatever, come over and get a proof for yourself. There was only one 7a pitch on the route, everything else easier with mostly 6a climbing (doable with a pack).
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 7, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Its europe, your supposed to call the chopper so you can savor cocktails and pastries back at the hotel :wink: seriously, they had a grand adventure, get over it. If it was Mt foraker they would have brought a different kit or not even gone at all...
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alpine_chris
Nov 7, 2006, 8:41 PM
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you do not seem to accept to be willing to learn your lesson. when first reading your report, i doubted that you qualified to climb this route on the Eiger. After reading your replys, Ï am fully convinced that you definitely should stop moving around in the alps. " how and why would you plan for snow on a rock route?" Either you are joking or you are...
How not plan snow in a north face in the alps end of october? this is the question. indoor onsights of a 7a compared to a 20-pitch route (or so) in alpine envoironment? as a volunteer of an alpine rescue team in switzerland i do not know I risk my ass for people who think and act like this. give yourself another chance and think about it once again. and maybe become a bit more moderate with your ambitions. it is not a shame not to have climbed a route in the eiger north face.
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norm1057
Nov 7, 2006, 9:32 PM
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Enjoyed the read and the lessons learned. Thank You!
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