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stinger
Mar 5, 2002, 9:10 AM
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Hey Dudes:
Has anyone any beta on the device that allows you to either top rope by setting up a ground anchor or the one that allows you to lead climb alone?
I've talked to shop owners, but I'd prefer to ask someone not motivated to sell me one.
I'm interested in climbing more often and do not have climbing buds yet.
Appreciate any input.
Stinger
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newbieclimber
Mar 5, 2002, 9:34 AM
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search "silent partner" for info
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dogen
Mar 5, 2002, 12:05 PM
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also search "soloist" and "gri gri soloing."
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radistrad
Mar 5, 2002, 7:50 PM
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I use the Ushba basic ascender for TOP ROPE self belay, it works great no teeth to chew on the rope. This device is only good for top rope self belay.
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miagi
Mar 9, 2002, 11:16 PM
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Ok man. Get the petzl basic ascender. Relatively cheap, does no damage to your rope (people say it does but they didnt follow instructions). I have a small review and directions on how to use it at my web site. Check it out and dont spend insane amounts of money on the soloist and the like.
http://cocolopez.8m.com/html/selfbelay.html
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milesdesbrie
Mar 13, 2002, 7:01 AM
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Yeah the Basic Ascender is the trick for solo toproping. It has fairly aggressive teeth but since toprope falls tend to be gentle affairs I don't worry about my rope getting chewed up. For solo aid I use a GriGri; I haven't tried it for solo free climbing. If using the GriGri tape the handle so it doesn't move and remember that backup knots are your special friends.
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climberstephen
Mar 13, 2002, 9:03 AM
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It's important to note that the Gri Gri is not designed or marketed as a self belay device. If the cam were to fail for what ever reason (grim in the cam, wet rope, shirt caught in cam), it will not keep you off the ground. Nor are ascenders designed for self belay either. But, they do work...
Nevertheless, I recommend the Soloist or Silent Partner for self belay. But, as with any climbing gadget, learn it's propper use before using it to save your life.
More info here
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c-horse
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Mar 13, 2002, 1:42 PM
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I used a petzl ascender (on a short sling, tied to my harness) this weekend for taking photographs. I free climbed up about 25-30 feet, stopping occasionally to move the ascender up the rope (analogous to clipping in on the way up). When I reached the point where I wanted to take photos, I put the rope through my atc (as if I were repelling), and tied an overhand on a bight into the rope, below the ascender, and clipped it into my harness with a locking biner.
My two takeaways were that (1) the ascender worked very well, and when I was putzing around with the camera, I had the ascender holding me, the atc "available" (although from a pure safety standpoint, it was irrelevant), and (2) I was tied into the rope for a backup.
I was able to lower my position along the rope by using the atc primarily, and sliding the ascender along as my atc backup.
I'll be buying an ascender on my next spend-fest.
C
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big_wall_theorist
Mar 13, 2002, 5:57 PM
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It's important to note...do NOT use a ascender or prussiks for solo lead climbing. A lead fall generate enough force for the ascender or prussik to cut through the rope . However, they are fine for soloing while on toprope.
Like newbie and dogon said...there are plenty of threads on this topic in the archives, so do a search and you shall find all the beta you need.
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dogen
Mar 13, 2002, 6:11 PM
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its also important to note that extending your ascender with a sling while self belaying on tr is not the safest setup. if you were to fall with slack in the system you would shock load the ascender, and greatly increase the chances of the locking cam's teeth striping the sheath off your rope. its better to clip in directly to the ascender.
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miagi
Mar 13, 2002, 10:36 PM
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You said it dogen. No extensions whether your ascender does or does not have teeth.
Also as ive read these posts - do not get the soloist. Ive heard its a piece of crap and it feeds worse than a clove hitch. A good top rope ascender without teeth is the Rescucender (sp?) It has no teeth. It slips if there is too much tension on the rope so it wont fray the rope.
[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-03-13 14:39 ]
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crackaddict
Mar 13, 2002, 10:47 PM
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I have the soloist and wish that I would have got the silent partner instead. It's a pain in the butt!!
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dogen
Mar 14, 2002, 11:37 AM
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i agree that the soloist can be a pain to work with at first, but i've managed to get used to it in my solo system. the only problem i have with the silent partner is the size of the thing. its huge!! imho the best setup for solo free leading is probably a modified gri gri.
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treyr
Mar 14, 2002, 12:10 PM
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Yeah I have heard a grigri works good
TROB
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redox
Mar 30, 2002, 3:01 AM
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At least in aid, i have used the petzl reverso for solo self belay. No teeth, just hook it up in auto locking mode. If you have to lower, good luck. Hopefully you wont fall.
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socialclimber
Mar 30, 2002, 11:33 AM
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I use a Petzl Tibloc for TR self belay with no problems. I weight the rope with my pack, depending on were the line runs
I might attach the Tibloc into my belay loop or onto the end of a lanyard(cows tail). I always carry my belay device and prussik slings so I can rescue myself if need be.
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radistrad
Mar 30, 2002, 6:30 PM
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I use the Ushba Basic ascender, it has no teeth to chew on the rope. It is only good for top rope self belay not leading. The Ushba directions say it is ok to use it for top rope self belay.
I have used it on 150' pitches, no problems.
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hishopper
Mar 30, 2002, 7:14 PM
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Just for kicks (dont ever do it for real) I did a short climb with myself as the anchor and a prussik - I had to pull slack every couple of moves, but with an 11m rope I could actually fall on the thing and the weight of the trailing rope would stop me within a few feet!
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hishopper
Mar 30, 2002, 7:17 PM
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Just for kicks (dont ever do it for real) I did a short climb with myself as the anchor and a prussik - I had to pull slack every couple of moves, but with an 11m rope I could actually fall on the thing and the weight of the trailing rope would stop me within a few feet!
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