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xclimber
May 6, 2004, 12:26 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Anybody have any experience anodizing their own 'biners, et. al. ?
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
xclimber
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fiend
May 6, 2004, 12:29 AM
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Great, we finally got away from the neon lycra colours and now we're going to start seeing dayglow anodized hardware at the crags.
Edit: spelling mistake
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tattooed_climber
May 6, 2004, 12:30 AM
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i've chromed metal in auto before and done that electron-wash thingly, which i believe is similiar to anodizing
but there's no way in hell i'd do that to any of my pro, or biners or any of my gear for that matter....i'll leave color coating my stuff to the pros...
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xclimber
May 6, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Come now fiend... surely you've noticed that 'biners have been anodized for quite some time now. :D
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tgreene
May 6, 2004, 1:13 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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Anodizing is HUGE in the firearms industry...
Contact a company like Brownells ( http://www.brownells.com ) if interested in getting the right stuff to do your gear safely. The techniques shown on the website listed above, look pretty shoddy at best. :shock:
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corpse
May 6, 2004, 1:42 AM
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I would trust my life on an anodized biner for sure. You are not altering the entire structure of the biner (or other part being anodized). I can certainly see how powdercoating a biner @ 350 for 20 minutes can cause a molecular-level change in the material, but certainly not with anodizing.
I will say though, for an at home setup they have a nice product. There was an article in Hot rod magazine many years ago (about 10 to be exact) on a TRUe home-brew method. It involved buying acid at a battery shop, a 12v car battery, and FOOD DYE - and the results were pretty impressive. Although I hear it was difficult to get the right shade u wanted.
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braaaaaaaadley
May 6, 2004, 1:55 AM
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here's a quote from your website... "Note: if the aluminum part has other metal or steel parts pressed into it, do not re-anodize the part. Metals other than aluminum will dissolve away during the anodizing process. "
The last time I checked, the spring for the gate/ the wire for the wiregate is not made of aluminum... therefore I would believe that this process could lead to gate failure and or death lol. DONT DO IT!!! I believe that manufacturers anodize the parts before they assemble them b/c when you look at the little rivets-axels that join the gates to the biner... you never see them annodized.
just my .02
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xclimber
May 6, 2004, 2:02 AM
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In reply to: here's a quote from your website... "Note: if the aluminum part has other metal or steel parts pressed into it, do not re-anodize the part. Metals other than aluminum will dissolve away during the anodizing process. " The last time I checked, the spring for the gate/ the wire for the wiregate is not made of aluminum... therefore I would believe that this process could lead to gate failure and or death lol. DONT DO IT!!! I believe that manufacturers anodize the parts before they assemble them b/c when you look at the little rivets-axels that join the gates to the biner... you never see them annodized.
Guess that settles it. But wait, what if the 'biner is a wire gate...?
Thanks!
X
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corpse
May 6, 2004, 4:47 AM
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wiregate would probably be fine.. however, then you have only some biners done, and others not. I wouldn't anodize any parts that have tight tolerances.. For example, a locker - not thinking about the material of the various components, if the anodizing goes on thick, say even a thou, that could just get you into a position where the locker can get stuck.. And plus, more importantly, anodizing can flake.. true professional jobs aren't supposed too, but I have seen cheaper anodized parts flake.. And I can imagine that would be quite bad to have that start to flake in a locker as you are trying to unlock one or something. My previous post about trusting a biner that is anodized purely meant the actual biner minus.. Of course, it's not recommended to disassemble a biner, anodize it, and then press a new pin back in for the gate.. Not a good idea for the hobbyist at least.
The best solution would be a low temp powder coating - cookin a biner @ 300-350 would make me nervous, 200* would be totally safe and I would do all my stuff if I could coat em @ 200.. Plus, with powder you can mask off areas not to be coated, which means you can keep it out of the gate components.
I'm going to mark my stuff the tried and true method of using nail polish - it'll give my daughters something to do, thy'll have fun painting my gear :)
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xclimber
May 6, 2004, 5:06 AM
Post #11 of 11
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hey corpse, you have a link to any info on powdercoating?
X
p.s. wish I still had that '67 mustang 2+2 with the 390 and hurst t-shifter...
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