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Mee0tch
May 13, 2008, 2:37 AM
Post #51 of 60
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Registered: Jan 8, 2007
Posts: 10
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In reply to: "Put a prussick above it. the device pushes it up, no drama. Youre backed up."
I use this setup as well and it seems pretty legit. One thing to consider is that if you want your prussik to slide as you climb, it will need it to be loosened up a bit. As long as you keep an eye on it and make sure it stays well dressed you should be fine.
Also, I use an oval locker to connect the MT to both tie-in points on my harness. This seems to help the MT swivel better as you go from climbing position to resting position. It's also a good idea to clip the device directly into both your tie-in points as oppossed to your belay loop, as your falls are shorter and put less force on the device.
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james481
May 13, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #52 of 60
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Registered: Aug 10, 2007
Posts: 201
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shockabuku wrote: Two issues I've had are a tendency to rotate onto the gate or spine of the biner
The best way I've found to handle this is a Petzl quick link to the belay loop with a shorty loop sling around the swami for backup and to minimize downward rotation of the device while climbing.
For an example, see:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/james_w/106098704
(This post was edited by james481 on May 13, 2008, 3:58 AM)
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majid_sabet
May 13, 2008, 5:03 AM
Post #53 of 60
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Misleading title
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irregularpanda
May 13, 2008, 5:05 AM
Post #54 of 60
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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majid_sabet wrote: Misleading title
I'm glad to see that you didn't read ANYTHING here before saying this. You're 3 weeks late, maybe more.
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angry
Apr 23, 2009, 12:18 AM
Post #55 of 60
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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As I've said earlier in thread and dingus has said. It's fine. It's safe. It's not foolproof.
Mine didn't lock up on my today and I damn near hit the deck (ledge actually).
I had a 3 pitch route fixed, actually the whole thing is 180ft but it breaks into 3 distinct pitches due to ledges. I ran up the first, just after starting the 2nd I tied a backup knot, made a few moves, and fell. It wasn't that it was so hard, I was pushing a retarded sequence for the sake of "training" or some such bullshit.
The mini-trax didn't lock. I fell a few feet before I instinctually grabbed the rope. I kept sliding down, until it just suddenly grabbed and I was fine.
I did get a full thickness burn on my pinky and 2nd degree burns on most of my other fingers. I was about 3 feet from my backup knot and I would have hit a ledge had it been the thing to stop me.
What I think happened is that my T-shirt jammed into the trax causing it not to lock. I then made matters worse by grabbing the rope but it's instinct, so whatcha gonna do? In all, I think my hands were in contact and moving down the rope for 20-25 feet, it was more than enough. This kinda hurts. My t-shirt has a pinched and burned area, the rope burnt it, that's why I'm making this guess. It either popped out or a random fiber snagged a tooth to stop the fall at just a few feet off the ledge.
The rope sheath was 100% intact. You couldn't even tell where it caught.
I still think the mini trax is a valuably training tool but I may look at another ascender instead of knots as a backup so if this happens again, I won't slide so far and wreck my hands before it catches.
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munky
Apr 23, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #56 of 60
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
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I use 2 mini traxions both rigged to my belay loop. How do you think this would have fared? I've also used a loosely tied prussik above the mini trax. Most of the time it just pushed the prussik up and it worked great but then it the prussic cord got caught in the mini trax and that was the end of that. I'm curioius as to what you come up with because I do alot of my weekly cragging soloing with the mini trax
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irregularpanda
Apr 23, 2009, 1:21 AM
Post #57 of 60
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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munky wrote: I'm curioius as to what you come up with because I do alot of my weekly cragging soloing with the mini trax
Due to someone else's suggestion, I've been using this just above the mini-traxion. It works smoothly. http://www.mec.ca/..._id=2534374302690431
Petzl also makes a smaller version, that is less heavy.
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onceahardman
Apr 23, 2009, 2:57 AM
Post #59 of 60
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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In reply to: I've got a list of priorities for the next little while. 1. Drinking, just getting started 2. Go to work, I'm already late 3. Get new tires on my truck, tomorrow 4. Get my gear back that I left on the cliff 5. Fuck with devices.
Somehow, I took this to mean something other than what I think you really meant.
Hey man, keep the wounds clean and moist. Neosporin (or the generic equivalent triple antibiotic ointment) is a good bet. Stay away from hospitals, nursing homes, and people who work there for a while. Nasty bugs live there. Good luck.
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zeke_sf
Apr 23, 2009, 4:13 AM
Post #60 of 60
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
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angry wrote: munky wrote: I use 2 mini traxions both rigged to my belay loop. How do you think this would have fared? I've also used a loosely tied prussik above the mini trax. Most of the time it just pushed the prussik up and it worked great but then it the prussic cord got caught in the mini trax and that was the end of that. I'm curioius as to what you come up with because I do alot of my weekly cragging soloing with the mini trax I don't know. Give me a minute. I've got a list of priorities for the next little while. 1. Drinking, just getting started 2. Go to work, I'm already late 3. Get new tires on my truck, tomorrow 4. Get my gear back that I left on the cliff 5. Fuck with devices. I do think I'll settle on a two ascender system but probably not 2 of the same ascenders. If for no other reason than varied gear is fun. My hands need to stop feeling like they're in satans asshole before I get too analytical though.
I do a mini-trax and wildcountry ropeman combo. I imagine it would work as a backed up system, but I haven't had to test it in any kind of ass-puckering fashion like you have.
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