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agdavis
Jul 23, 2009, 6:02 AM
Post #51 of 60
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Registered: Jan 7, 2009
Posts: 310
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Bonneau wrote: hello everyone, im new to this forum and pretty new to rock climbing after few months of gym climbing, i decided to start climbing on real rocks... i have got a nice dynamic rope and a verso for 175$ which is a good price... i thought to buy a package of 6 quickdraws, but i am deliberating between these http://www.rei.com/product/769020 and these http://www.rei.com/product/751535 which one do you think i should take? maybe do you have a better idea.... thanks for reading have a nice week bonneau
what about trad draws? i think they are more versatile..that is what I use during the occasional sport climb. anyone have any thoughts on this? i've actually been curious...
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granite_grrl
Jul 23, 2009, 11:12 AM
Post #52 of 60
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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agdavis wrote: Bonneau wrote: hello everyone, im new to this forum and pretty new to rock climbing after few months of gym climbing, i decided to start climbing on real rocks... i have got a nice dynamic rope and a verso for 175$ which is a good price... i thought to buy a package of 6 quickdraws, but i am deliberating between these http://www.rei.com/product/769020 and these http://www.rei.com/product/751535 which one do you think i should take? maybe do you have a better idea.... thanks for reading have a nice week bonneau what about trad draws? i think they are more versatile..that is what I use during the occasional sport climb. anyone have any thoughts on this? i've actually been curious...
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acorneau
Jul 23, 2009, 2:22 PM
Post #53 of 60
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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REAL wrote: What would be the minimum size cordelette you would use for making draws? I have a ton of 4mm prussik chord sitting here, ... or am I way off?.
That's a joke, right?!?
If you're going to tie your own then get some 9/16" webbing like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/610111
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REAL
Jul 23, 2009, 4:38 PM
Post #54 of 60
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Registered: May 13, 2009
Posts: 90
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Yes I realize 4mm could not be used. (aka "joke" i guess)
Yes I was hoping something other than webbing could be used in a jam. In addition to the slings I carry I have 4mm and 6 or 7mm that I use for prussiks, autoblocks, etc.
Thanks for the link.
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acorneau
Jul 23, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #55 of 60
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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REAL wrote: Yes I realize 4mm could not be used. (aka "joke" i guess) Yes I was hoping something other than webbing could be used in a jam. In addition to the slings I carry I have 4mm and 6 or 7mm that I use for prussiks, autoblocks, etc.
Yes, in a jam you could use some 6mm or 7mm cord. I'd tie a double fisherman's including the other side of the loop (to make it look like a bowtie) then cinch down one end on the rope-side biner.
I'm sure there's a name for a fisherman's with the other side included, but I don't know what it's called. Come on, where are our resident knot geeks?!?
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herbertpowell
Jul 23, 2009, 5:19 PM
Post #56 of 60
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Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 79
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acorneau wrote: REAL wrote: Yes I realize 4mm could not be used. (aka "joke" i guess) Yes I was hoping something other than webbing could be used in a jam. In addition to the slings I carry I have 4mm and 6 or 7mm that I use for prussiks, autoblocks, etc. Yes, in a jam you could use some 6mm or 7mm cord. I'd tie a double fisherman's including the other side of the loop (to make it look like a bowtie) then cinch down one end on the rope-side biner. I'm sure there's a name for a fisherman's with the other side included, but I don't know what it's called. Come on, where are our resident knot geeks?!?
Dogvine
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REAL
Jul 23, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #57 of 60
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Registered: May 13, 2009
Posts: 90
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The CAMP OrbitWires are listed with a 40mm opening where every other qd I'm looking at is around 23mm. Is Camp measuring theirs differently or is this actual and due to a different design or what? Any insight as to what and how is measured?
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cracklover
Jul 23, 2009, 7:04 PM
Post #58 of 60
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Two thoughts:
1 - Heliums really are the shit, but you don't want them on both sides of the draw. You want some kind of straight solid-gate biner on the bolt end.
2 - If you're going to get into the habit of occasionally grabbing draws while working a route (nothing wrong with that, as Jay said) then avoid buying the Simond Spider biners. I've heard that sharp nose-end can do really nasty things to your hand if you give it a chance.
GO
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caughtinside
Jul 23, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #59 of 60
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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THose madrock draws aren't very good. THe gate opening is too small, my fingers get caught in them while clipping in the rope. A friend of mine bought a set and he's bummed.
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REAL
Jul 25, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #60 of 60
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Registered: May 13, 2009
Posts: 90
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REAL wrote: The CAMP OrbitWires are listed with a 40mm opening where every other qd I'm looking at is around 23mm. Is Camp measuring theirs differently or is this actual and due to a different design or what? Any insight as to what and how is measured?
In response to my own question, I checked the CAMP website and it seems that it may be a typo in the gearepress ad. The Camp site shows their OrbitWire gate oppening to be 25mm, depending, for this year's models.
caughtinside wrote: THose madrock draws aren't very good. THe gate opening is too small, my fingers get caught in them while clipping in the rope. A friend of mine bought a set and he's bummed. |
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