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rtwilli4
May 21, 2010, 4:35 PM
Post #51 of 60
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There are a lot of ways to set up your anchors. That one seems to make sense in some way. But why are you worried about what a bunch of internet junkies think... shouldn't you be talking to the local climbers?
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shu2kill
May 21, 2010, 5:07 PM
Post #52 of 60
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rtwilli4 wrote: There are a lot of ways to set up your anchors. That one seems to make sense in some way. But why are you worried about what a bunch of internet junkies think... shouldn't you be talking to the local climbers?
well, as i said, all the locals to whom i have sent the pics agree lowering the anchors is a good way to avoid the chains being stolen again, and most think the setup could be usefull.... some of them said they are going to climb the route this weekend to try it and see if theres a significant difference between it and the normal hanging chains from the last link.... before placing them, i talked to a good friend of mine and owner of a climbing gym, and he said it could be a good idea, and that we should put it in a route to try it... so now there it is, im waiting for feedback from the users, but i wanted to know if someone, as potreroed, has done the same thing, and if the encountered problems or something... for instance i think it could be useful for the people who know the purpose of setting it up like that, but it could be confusing for the new climbers, specially gym climbers....
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JimTitt
May 22, 2010, 6:55 PM
Post #53 of 60
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At last the light has dawned! The problem you are having with the chain pinching the karabiner etc was sorted out many years ago. The answer is to forget V chain sets and go for inline ones instead like everyone else has. Then you can clip the top anchor and thread the lower one without problems.
V chainsets are a dying breed, they cost more and are visually more intrusive. It is virtually impossible to set them to truly equalise which since all modern bolts are plenty strong enough is a waste of time anyway. Inline chainsets give redundancy if one bolt fails and and the bolts can be installed anywhere within reach of the chain without compromising on placement trying to get the tension on the chains equal.
Clipping intermediate links in a chain is generally pish especially when people use short link chain, buy long link, its cheaper and easier to use.
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moose_droppings
May 22, 2010, 8:12 PM
Post #54 of 60
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shu2kill wrote: rightarmbad wrote: If you can walk into the anchors, why do you need any chains? Clean anchors, walk off. Maybe somebody has removed them because they are unnecessary and unsightly? well, here we are not used to top outs, we prefer to use the rope to return to where we started.... cultural thing i guess.... and no, they were not removed because they were unnecessary and unsightly, since you cannot see them unless you are at the top of the cliff, and as i said earlier several times, noone is allowed there except climbers and the owners of the place. and the owners do not go to that part of the ranch... unless they want free chain i guess...
So, no one has talked to the owners yet?
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shu2kill
May 22, 2010, 10:06 PM
Post #55 of 60
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moose_droppings wrote: shu2kill wrote: rightarmbad wrote: If you can walk into the anchors, why do you need any chains? Clean anchors, walk off. Maybe somebody has removed them because they are unnecessary and unsightly? well, here we are not used to top outs, we prefer to use the rope to return to where we started.... cultural thing i guess.... and no, they were not removed because they were unnecessary and unsightly, since you cannot see them unless you are at the top of the cliff, and as i said earlier several times, noone is allowed there except climbers and the owners of the place. and the owners do not go to that part of the ranch... unless they want free chain i guess...So, no one has talked to the owners yet?
yes we have... in fact, the place had been opened for 10 years, but 6 months ago there was a problem with climbers from other city, and the owner decided to lock the place.... so for 6 months we were not allowed there, until about 1 month when we convinced the owner to open the door again... we had to do some repairs at the ranch, fix a little bridge and fences... we even offered him to charge us per visit, but he didnt wat to charge....
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moose_droppings
May 22, 2010, 11:19 PM
Post #56 of 60
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shu2kill wrote: moose_droppings wrote: shu2kill wrote: rightarmbad wrote: If you can walk into the anchors, why do you need any chains? Clean anchors, walk off. Maybe somebody has removed them because they are unnecessary and unsightly? well, here we are not used to top outs, we prefer to use the rope to return to where we started.... cultural thing i guess.... and no, they were not removed because they were unnecessary and unsightly, since you cannot see them unless you are at the top of the cliff, and as i said earlier several times, noone is allowed there except climbers and the owners of the place. and the owners do not go to that part of the ranch... unless they want free chain i guess...So, no one has talked to the owners yet? yes we have... in fact, the place had been opened for 10 years, but 6 months ago there was a problem with climbers from other city, and the owner decided to lock the place.... so for 6 months we were not allowed there, until about 1 month when we convinced the owner to open the door again... we had to do some repairs at the ranch, fix a little bridge and fences... we even offered him to charge us per visit, but he didnt wat to charge....
Sorry I didn't specify, I thought you might get it from what I highlighted and underlined.
I'll rephrase it.
No one has talked to the owners yet about the chains missing, in case it might be them?
Thanks.
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shu2kill
May 23, 2010, 4:46 AM
Post #57 of 60
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moose_droppings wrote: Sorry I didn't specify, I thought you might get it from what I highlighted and underlined. I'll rephrase it. No one has talked to the owners yet about the chains missing, in case it might be them? Thanks.
oh no we have not... we are only allowed to be there on weekends, and normally they come to the city on weekends, so theres no one there when we go... but it would be a good idea to talk to them, maybe theres something we are overlooking....
thanx!
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guangzhou
May 25, 2010, 1:08 AM
Post #58 of 60
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shockabuku wrote: guangzhou wrote: shockabuku wrote: I see those all over the place. I don't like them, but they work. What is it you don't like about them? Just curious, nothing more. In South East Asia, if I use a quick link, the chain is gone within a week. Do you bolt routes? Again, just curious. If so, what do you use. My absolute favorite for belay stations is Rap Hangers. Prevents people from top-roping directly on the bolts. They are aesthetically unpleasing.  Something about the fact that the gap never quite closes.
Never noticed to be honest. Mine seem to close all the way.
In reply to: But no, I don't bolt routes so my opinion is nothing other than that.
In reply to: I often wonder why I don't see more of the rap hangers. I guess maybe they're less desirable in financially unconstrained sport climbing areas. I suppose I used to see more when I was trad climbing more.
Cost is one. In my case, I can't get them here. For a chain belay, my preferred choice is a stainless stud, 1/2inch with chain directly on the stud and a few beefy washers to old the chain on. Works great. Saves two hangers too. Hanger for me are hard to find. I have to pack them in my suitcase every summer. Ladt year, I brought back 500 hangers from America in my suitcase.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on May 25, 2010, 1:10 AM)
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shockabuku
May 25, 2010, 1:44 PM
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Sounds heavy.
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guangzhou
May 26, 2010, 1:00 AM
Post #60 of 60
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shockabuku wrote: Sounds heavy.
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