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zmehl
May 14, 2003, 6:56 PM
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I have heard Seneca Rocks is mainly trad climbing, but I am going there over Memorial Day Weekend with some friends who are Trad climbers. My question is are there any good sport routes there? Say between 5.9 and 5.11? Thanks for any advice.
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nthusiastj
May 14, 2003, 7:05 PM
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No sport there that I know of. However, just 15 min. down the road is the town of Frankiln. The crag there is all sport and holds some really nice 5.9 and 10 routes. It is in the routes database.
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nthusiastj
May 14, 2003, 7:07 PM
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Oh, Nelson rocks is close too. About the same distance I think. Same rock as Seneca and it has Trad and some sport.
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crag
May 14, 2003, 7:19 PM
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There are more than a handful of sport and mixed routes at Seneca most of which have been put up after the most recent guide book. You can get good beta from either climbing shop. Not much in the moderate range thou.
Nelson has a higher concentration of sport routes and is worth your time if you've never been. Stu has and his cronies have put in a lot of hard work.
Check http://www.wvclimbing.com/ for an online guide if you don’t mind registering.
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vertical_reality
May 14, 2003, 7:19 PM
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I really don't have too much to offer on the topic, but there are a couple (and I mean just a couple) of sport routes there. One I saw was in the cave at the south east end, I think. It looked kinda cool actually.
You're better off asking someone who's familiar with the area, or maybe even call one of the climbing schools there and ask.
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zetedog
May 14, 2003, 7:51 PM
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In reply to: One I saw was in the cave at the south east end, I think. It looked kinda cool actually.
There are two or three in the cave. IIRC all are either high 12/ low 13 range. I saw a guy working one of them (lots of hanging), then saw the same dude ripping up some 12's and 13's at the new a week or two later. Probably not in the original posters range.
Franklin would be better, fits his range pretty well, see Climbing In VA,MD and WVA by Horst (falcon guide I think) for detials. Be sensitive about access there. Some feel there are no problems (it's private land) others feel it might get yanked.
Nelson is not really "sport." I'd probably classify as "mixed," its more trad with bolts in some places. Stu (oozingpustle) owns the place, he'll give you the lowdown.
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maypop
May 14, 2003, 8:31 PM
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There are some worthy sport routes at Seneca -- even a couple in the low-end 5.10 range. Check the latest guidebook ... BUT if it's your first visit you'd be nuts to choose these routes over the classic trad moderates, like Ecstasy (5.7), The Burn (5.8) Tripple S (5.9) etc. Even if you aren't up for placing gear, find a trad rope gun and do the routes that make Seneca great.
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hyhuu
May 16, 2003, 5:22 PM
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There are sport routes at seneca. You'll have to go thru the guide book. If it's bolted the book would say so. However, those that I've seen start around 5.11c and look tough. Several are on East Face South Peak and Bell Walls. Nelson and Franklin as other have said are better choice and easier access. Good luck.
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erclimb
May 16, 2003, 6:44 PM
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memorial day weekend at seneca? call ahead to reserve a campsite...wear a helmet as soon as you cross the creek...get up EARLY to get on the classics...be prepared for a conga line at the rappels...then go to nelson instead
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