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onbelay007
Jul 20, 2006, 3:47 PM
Post #101 of 116
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 107
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Rodion, yeah we had the pirate flag. You were the party climbing up part of the casual route around 7pm that night, right? Hardcore man!
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justsendingits
Jul 21, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #102 of 116
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
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Tim and Steve---representing the flatlands!!
word to your mother!!
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dangle
Jul 23, 2006, 12:32 AM
Post #103 of 116
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
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well? well? WELL?
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cracklover
Jul 23, 2006, 1:52 AM
Post #104 of 116
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Congrats! That's awesome!!!
GO
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dangle
Jul 23, 2006, 3:01 AM
Post #106 of 116
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
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Bravo!
(but I can't help but wonder if you went mexican on Steve in that photo and hit him with a stick whether he'd drop gifts on you. He sure looks like one decked out pinata! And everything so shiny!lol)
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jsj42
Jul 23, 2006, 4:30 AM
Post #107 of 116
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374
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Saturday AM: Partner and I arrive in the Chasm Lake cirque and see portaledge just above the midway point on Dunn-Westbay. Leader is working on pitch above the ledge (P7 or 8?).
Saturday PM: We finish our route on Meeker, and head over to Mills Glacier for dinner. Leader still working on same pitch!!!???
Saturday LATE PM: We climb up the N. Chimney and bivy on Broadway. Judging by headlamps, it appears leader has returned to the ledge.
Sunday AM: Portaledge still in same spot, now flying huge Jolly Roger. No sign of movement.
Sunday Afternoon: We finish our route on the Diamond. Still no sign of the leader or of movement, but party responds to cat calls, hoots and hollars.
Verdict: Ledge has effectively not moved in over 36 hours of splitter weather, but all bets are that they are having a shit load of fun.
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flash5twelve
Jul 23, 2006, 4:47 AM
Post #108 of 116
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Registered: Nov 21, 2002
Posts: 121
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Congrats!
I think I saw you rapping in Chasm View with the pigs on Thursday afternoon. My buddy and I were finishing up the Casual. What a beautiful day that was. I hope the weather stayed nice for you.
Greg
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euroford
Jul 23, 2006, 5:24 AM
Post #109 of 116
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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JS: yeah 'fun' is one way to put it. that would have been the pitch above table ledge, where steve is shown heading off too in the photo above. things had gone pretty much extremely smooth up to that point, but then the route got directly into runnoff and steve went damn near hypothermic climbing through it. he rapped the haul line after finally finishing the lead, then that thunderstorm hit and we got our asses soaked and frozen.
up until he fixed the pitch and rapped i was chillin, eating, making sure the flag was flying and having a jolly old time.
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kricir
Jul 23, 2006, 6:58 AM
Post #110 of 116
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Registered: Oct 15, 2005
Posts: 434
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You guys sent the Diamond while flying a pirate flag off of your ledge?!? That is the most bad ass thing I have ever heard of!
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dangle
Jul 23, 2006, 7:44 AM
Post #112 of 116
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
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Ah yes. Afternoon thunderstorms on the Diamond. Let me guess.
2:53 PM?
We set our watches by it.
In July, 1974 on the 4th ascent of Curving Vine I started up the fifth pitch just as the storm came out of nowhere.
Actually it came out of the west, but being on a vertical east face we were the last to know.
So I was wearing one of what we called 60/40 jackets. (That means sixty percent holes and forty percent waterproof.) Soon I was being pelted by hail, but the rock was still warm enough to melt it when it hit so I got the best of both worlds.
Some 8 meters above the belay I hastily place a piece and get on it deliberately not looking up.
It holds for about the same number of seconds.
I take my first wall fall.
Dave gets the worst of it when my Garmisch hiking boots nearly break his collarbone.
There is no choice. Dave, now injured, has to be at work in 42 hours.
I go back to it with a vengeance.
Every time I reach up to place an anchor the ice water runs down my arm right into my soul. But there is no other option as the top appears only a pitch away (a common mistake on the Diamond).
Avoiding long upward glances I shoot past the belay and end up stretching the rope to reach the pendulum.
Ah yes, but this is YOUR Diamond story guys,... LOL
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euroford
Jul 23, 2006, 4:39 PM
Post #113 of 116
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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i don't think any diamond adventure would be complete without the thunderstorm and drenching :lol:
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dangle
Jul 24, 2006, 9:51 PM
Post #114 of 116
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
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OK Tim,
gettin on towards monday Miller time in the windy city. Time to get crackin on that TR.
We've seen the trailer, now we want the show. :wink:
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euroford
Aug 3, 2006, 11:02 PM
Post #115 of 116
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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thank heavens, i finally got a draft done and just emailed it over to steve for him to review and edit. hopefully he gets it back to me in a couple of days while i go through and get all of the photos sorted out.
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