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adatesman
Mar 10, 2008, 6:28 PM
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majid_sabet
Mar 10, 2008, 6:51 PM
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This should go in the lab instead of gear. Can you test other stuff like rope, webbing, 8 belay device, and biners ?
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adatesman
Mar 10, 2008, 8:05 PM
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adatesman
Mar 11, 2008, 3:11 PM
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healyje
Mar 15, 2008, 12:53 AM
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I've done informal testing on my alien hybrids, but I'll ship you mine for more formal testing. Thanks...!
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adatesman
Mar 15, 2008, 6:04 PM
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mojomonkey
Mar 16, 2008, 10:20 PM
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For what its worth, I live near enough to Aric that I stopped over yesterday to get my 3 Aliens tested. They are:
- red - stamped 1106, marking on head is 'L', which Dave from CCH said means he pull tested it
- yellow - stamped 107, also marked with an 'L'
- green - stamped 706, has an upside down 'v' or '^' stamped on the head
Here is the red in the test rig:
The red was pulled to 4 kN, and the yellow and green were pulled to a little over 3 kN. None blew apart the test rig in a fiery explosion of shrapnel, so I guess I can start climbing on them again.
The tests did mark the lobes. The red showed the most wear and a slight flattening. The pictures below show the amount of marking.
There is some flattening of the teeth on this lobe, right above the spring connection:
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adatesman
Mar 17, 2008, 12:41 AM
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adatesman
Mar 20, 2008, 9:13 PM
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wormly81
Mar 20, 2008, 9:27 PM
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A few questions:
How hard are you pulling these cams? Is there any assurance that the pulling process wont do damage by itself?
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joeforte
Mar 20, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Looks like your test jig has way too much texture. A flattened cam lobe creates an uneven cam angle. Try grinding it down to smooth it out some so you're not shearing teeth off the cams. Aliens do indeed have soft lobes, which is why they hold so well in marginal placements.
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carbonrx8
Mar 21, 2008, 12:09 AM
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Downloaded waiver and will be sending 3 cams from an unnamed company that has great design but poor qc this weekend. This offer is hella nice. Much appretiated.
(This post was edited by carbonrx8 on Mar 21, 2008, 12:09 AM)
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mojomonkey
Mar 21, 2008, 4:43 AM
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I guess I should have waited for other Aliens to go first ;)
I wasn't terribly concerned about the flattening / marking, should I be? I was figuring it is similar to falling on them, which doesn't immediately mean they need to be retired. Am I underestimating the damage?
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healyje
Mar 25, 2008, 7:41 PM
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So, guess I should ask - you can test hybrids?
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mustclimb69
Mar 26, 2008, 3:33 PM
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can you test some old biners untill they fail??
I have biners that have fallen great distances and others with significant rope wear. I would like to see what they fail at?
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