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SuperCow
Sep 28, 2009, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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This weekend sept25th-27th, I took some of my buddies and our bouldering pad and set out on the trail at Lion's Head to find some rock to climb.
The true reason for this post, is my amazement at not being able to find squat online about anything other than lead climbing at Lion's Head.
Having not learned how to lead climb yet, I found it hard to believe that no one else has ever attempted a bouldering trip to the peninsula. Regardless my friends and I took the leap of faith and hiked 5 hours along the coast line to eventually reach a point where we could set up base camp and strike out to find the big boulders, and boulders did we find. The north-west side of Lion's Head is completely littered with great boulders. Being completely wrecked by the hike our climbs although possible FA were nothing harder than v3's. That said there is amazing potential for bouldering at Lion's Head, as much so as the Niagara Glen.
So to all those who may have thought about it but were unsure..... Check it out, its well worth the drive and hike..... If you can manage a boat... all the better to save your energy, "thats what im going todo for the next trip"
Keep climbing, the skin grows back
Alex Gagnon
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granite_grrl
Sep 28, 2009, 5:50 PM
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There's established bouldering on the other side of the bay below White Bluff. There are even topos for it if you go through the routes section of this site.
Bouldering is also being established below TV Tower. I almost think I think I remember something about bouldering by Cape Croaker too.
I don't boulder and I have picked up on all this. Sounds like you didn't try very hard to find information on escarpment bouldering online.
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SuperCow
Sep 28, 2009, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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I was quite aware of Top roping at TV tower as well as the bouldering at whites bluff.... but both of those are situate several kilometers from Lions Head, which is the topic here.
You can even find video of some kool looking crack boulder problems at whites bluff.... My search was centered around those rocks on the beach at the bottom of the "Lions Head" cliffs.... The best info I was able to gather was some video shot by a kiyaker along the coastline.
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granite_grrl
Sep 28, 2009, 10:30 PM
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SuperCow wrote: I was quite aware of Top roping at TV tower as well as the bouldering at whites bluff.... but both of those are situate several kilometers from Lions Head, which is the topic here.
In reply to: You can even find video of some kool looking crack boulder problems at white s bluff.... My search was centered around those rocks on the beach at the bottom of the "Lions Head" cliffs.... The best info I was able to gather was some video shot by a kiyaker along the coastline.
Enjoy your masturbating in a whore house.
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SuperCow
Sep 28, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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I am quite sory that you feel the need to ridicule what was simply an adventure into the unknown. My confusion was simply as to why no one else has ever attempted the same... In the end it may simply be that no one wants to put in the effort to walk the 5 1/2 or so houres to get there.....
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technogeekery
Sep 29, 2009, 11:48 PM
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SuperCow wrote: In the end it may simply be that no one wants to put in the effort to walk the 5 1/2 or so houres to get there.....
You might be onto something here...
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jamincan
Sep 30, 2009, 8:53 PM
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SuperCow wrote: I found it hard to believe that no one else has ever attempted a bouldering trip to the peninsula.
As has been noted above, there are a number of established bouldering areas on the peninsula - Halfway Dump is probably the best known, but is presently closed. White's Bluff, TV Tower Crag, and Cape Croker all are established bouldering areas, and also very close to Lion's Head. Nevertheless, kudos for going off the beaten trail and exploring potentially fresh rock.
I suspect Lion's Head doesn't get much attention for bouldering because of the challenging access. I don't boulder myself, but I haven't heard of many examples of people trekking for five hours in order to go bouldering. I do agree that taking a boat would be a lot easier in the future. Just to clarify, did you follow the trail at the top to the end of the cliff and then backtrack?
You might consider posting some information on ontarioclimbing.com. Gus might be interested in including some of the details in the new guidebook, if he hasn't already, and could provide additional beta for bouldering at TV Tower at the very least (apparently the best bouldering in S. Ontario according to him).
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SuperCow
Sep 30, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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If you are familiar with the Bruce Trail map of Lion's Head. We parked on the south est side of the point and walked the back way "or right side of the trail" into whats called Mackay's Harbour. We then continued about another kilometer around the coast line to the NW side of the peninsula. With 50+lbs on your back this is not for the faint of heart.
This weekend was as much for climbing as it was just to get out there and camp overnight.
Thanks a bunch about the info on TV tower....
It may well be the next destination.
Although being on private property they do not allow overnight camping ;[...
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steinmethod
Oct 1, 2009, 2:54 PM
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SuperCow wrote: Although being on private property they do not allow overnight camping ;[...
There are lots of places to camp in the area. Go to the ontarioclimbing.com web site and search there.
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monkeyssister
Oct 1, 2009, 3:24 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2006
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For anyone interested in bouldering on the Bruce, I spent some time this summer cleaning problems at Croker. They're not at the ladder area, but farther down the road at the "Cave Trail". We cleaned a collection of stellar highballs (and some stuff <15ft) ranging from V0-V4ish with good landings. The approach is just over 5 minutes (which seems much more manageable than just over 5 hours) and they're easy to find. I'd love to hear if anyone else has bouldered there.
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steinmethod
Oct 1, 2009, 4:29 PM
Post #11 of 18
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Glad to see someone has taken the time to clean some new problems. You should forward this info to Gus at the ontarioclimbing.com web site if you haven't allready. It could be usefull for the new guide book.
I spent about 4 weekends in the lions head area this past summer, but didn't attempt any bouldering. Maybe next season!
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monkeyssister
Oct 1, 2009, 5:49 PM
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Will do. A topo is also in the works, links to which will get posted online at some point.
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Schubie
Oct 5, 2009, 8:53 PM
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Way to go, good to see people trying to find some new rock to climb.
p.s. granite grrl, what crawled up your vag and died?
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SuperCow
Oct 8, 2009, 3:43 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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Looking to go to the cape in two weeks over the weekend... Any info would be great... and heck if your going I would love to tag along and get to know the area..... Pm me if you like and we can coordinate
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eb1aine
Nov 23, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2008
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Cape Croker has some sick bouldering. There are literally so many boulders you won't know where to begin. Established...not really. If you mean once someone climbed there a few times. IMO for something to be established it really needs to be listed somewhere...anywhere....cape crocker boulders no where found in any guide I know of. To get to main climbing wall. Take the Bruce Trail. Blue dots on the trees. The first main pull out once you get under the cliff. Its about a 10 minute walk up the hill. The sweet high ball stuff is about a 2 minute drive down the road. Follow the yellow trail up the hill less than 5 minutes until you spot ridicilously oversized boulders. Theres some very minor chalk residue low on all the walls but you can tell they've hardly been climbed. Basically underneath the whole cliff is a jungle of boulders. Once you reach the boulders. If you want to continue all the way to cliff. I'd say conservately it will take you another 15-20 minutes to work over the boulders about 100 yards to get the cliff base. The cliff being about 1 mile long. With 100 yards of boulder forest to make it to the cliff. its sweet. Take pictures and name that crap if you can do it.
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steinmethod
Nov 24, 2009, 12:52 PM
Post #16 of 18
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Registered: Aug 4, 2007
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eb1aine wrote: Cape Croker has some sick bouldering. There are literally so many boulders you won't know where to begin. Established...not really. If you mean once someone climbed there a few times. IMO for something to be established it really needs to be listed somewhere...anywhere....cape crocker boulders no where found in any guide I know of. To get to main climbing wall. Take the Bruce Trail. Blue dots on the trees. The first main pull out once you get under the cliff. Its about a 10 minute walk up the hill. The sweet high ball stuff is about a 2 minute drive down the road. Follow the yellow trail up the hill less than 5 minutes until you spot ridicilously oversized boulders. Theres some very minor chalk residue low on all the walls but you can tell they've hardly been climbed. Basically underneath the whole cliff is a jungle of boulders. Once you reach the boulders. If you want to continue all the way to cliff. I'd say conservately it will take you another 15-20 minutes to work over the boulders about 100 yards to get the cliff base. The cliff being about 1 mile long. With 100 yards of boulder forest to make it to the cliff. its sweet. Take pictures and name that crap if you can do it.
Post any beta you have for bouldering in the lions head area at http://www.ontarioclimbing.com
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eb1aine
Nov 24, 2009, 1:00 PM
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there is no lions head area at that site.
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steinmethod
Nov 24, 2009, 3:46 PM
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eb1aine wrote: there is no lions head area at that site.
Start a thread, let others in Ontario no about any new info you have!
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