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darkgift06
Nov 20, 2009, 6:49 PM
Post #1 of 2
(1968 views)
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Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
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my climbing partner Andrew & I went out climbing & bouldering last weekend, although our typical place to climb is Skaha we have found a few other locations around Penticton that offer both sport climbing & a few bouldering problems. On this trip out we decided to head out above heritage hills (a suburban development just south of town). Last time we went up, we didn't bring a rope & stumbled on a group of sport climbs so this time we wouldn't leave it at home.
We arrived just after 11, parking the car at the end of the road we set off down the path. We had decided to during the drive to start with the sport climbs which we had discovered a few weeks earlier. Up & up we hike from the bouldering area until we arrive at the secluded wall with 10 or so newly developed climbs, most sport & 1 or 2 trad. Now as this is a newly developed area & the locals keep it on the down low, & there are no guide books or info for the area just bolts on the wall, a few ropes still strung for cleaning & a few draws still hanging.
We unload the rope & gear & put our harnesses on, constantly eyeing the wall I try to decide on which line of bolts looks easy... there are a few climbs with grades written in chalk on the wall, most are 10b & up to 11d. After a quick cup of coffee I decide on a line & tie into the sharp end, up I go.... or maybe not.. It’s an awkward start on super sloppy feet & very little hands, at this point my feet are only a foot or so of the deck & I'm struggling & it doesn't look good. I hoop off the wall & step back for a moment trying to figure out what just happened... we decide to switch sides so now I'm climbing the left hand side of the bolts & my belayer had moved around me. Up I go, 1, 2, 3 bolts nice easy 5.9ish climbing I'm a happy camper. & then it happens, I barley reach the next hold & actually down climb once to the bolt for a rest, trying to figure out how I'm going to pass this section. I try it a few more times killing my self trying to reach the next hold & finally give up & come down.
My partner Andrew has a much longer reach than me so I wasn't worried about him reaching the top. So up he goes 1, 2, 3 bolts & here he pauses for a while doing the same thing as I just did down climbing once or twice trying to figure out the moves until finally he sacks up & goes for the reach & sticks it, clips the bolt & finishes off the rout with only minor issues.
At this point were both a little bagged from being beaten up on the first climb so I look for something else easy & decide on a crimpy looking short rout. I grab the sharp end again & up I go. Now from the ground this climb looked some what easy but once on the wall I found out that the holds were great & super positive but reaching them was again going to be my problem. I struggle on the 4th bolt again & again come down allowing my partner to give it a shot. He reaches my high point & passes it with a huge reach to a crimp & sends it with no other issues.
We sit down & drink a few more cups of coffee trying to warm up, its mid November & the snow has fallen a few times & melted, looking at the wall we both agree that the other climbs look above our current limits & head back down to do some bouldering on our way out.
These boulders are supposed to be a local spot but there are no grades photos or info on them anywhere. So again its picking an easy looking problem & givin'er. Last time we were here, we struggled on the problems but this week I wouldn't be shut down. We drop our bags & put on our shoes I jump on to a problem & can't even make the move from the starting position. I get off & step back to have another look at it & decide to start it on the move after the start as I'm not sure on how to do the start.. or even where it starts for that mater. & to my delight I send the problem first shot, giving my ego a boost after our earlier climbs. Andrew sends it also & we continue messing around with a few other problems until the sun is just about to the horizon & walk out.
All in all it was a good day out, a little cold in the shade & during belay, but the coffee kept us warm & going.
Here is a photo of the the first boulder & problem known as "Boulder on the Bench"
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coastal_climber
Nov 22, 2009, 4:20 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1916 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
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Nice TR.
Have you climbed at the riverview crags in Grand Forks?
Nice little south facing crag with some fun sport routes.
>Cam
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