We orient our carabiners on all our standard quickdraws with the gates facing opposite each other. We feel that this is the safest method to minimize the possibility of simultaneously loading both carabiners in a gate-open position while leading routes which may wander above and to the left or right of your last placement. Under certain circumstances, it is possible for both gates to open during a fall as the ‘draw is scraped along the rock while it orients iteself below the point of protection. By opposing the carabiners on a draw, we reduce the possibility of simultaneous gate-opening in this manner.

I was just looking at some gear on a website (big surprise, huh?) and saw perhaps the weirdest justification for having their pre-made draws with gates facing in opposite directions:


One open gate versus two... who really cares? It's kind of the "weakest link in the chain" situation. Even if one biner breaks because it loaded with an open gate or it comes off the rope/hanger, it's still no longer a valid protection point.

Anyone else ever heard this kind of justification for opposite-facing gates on quickdraws before?

I have a good reason for op. facing gates...

Upper biner gate faces bolt from left hand or right, leaving lower gate in opposite orientation facing my left hand or right as it brings the rope to the gate.

Easier to do than say. C is rt facing gate, D is lft facing gate

.....bolt...........bolt
...C [] ............ [] D
...|| ................. ||
...|| ..<-draw->.. ||
./\D .................. C/\
| | ..................... | |
| | ..................... | |
Rope ................. Rope
Left hand ........... Right hand

if you have trouble clipping the biner/bold when it is facing the "wrong" way you're doing it wrong. Sport climbing is about climbing, not about clipping. if the clipping is holding you back, you got some practicing to do.

You assume:

I have a preferred way to do something because I can't do it other ways.

Clipping is holding me back.

Sport climbing makes you an expert.

0 for 3, Dude

You live in North Carolina, get a rack and learn to use it. Contribute something positive or at least useful.

I was just looking at some gear on a website (big surprise, huh?) and saw perhaps the weirdest justification for having their pre-made draws with gates facing in opposite directions:


One open gate versus two... who really cares? It's kind of the "weakest link in the chain" situation. Even if one biner breaks because it loaded with an open gate or it comes off the rope/hanger, it's still no longer a valid protection point.

Anyone else ever heard this kind of justification for opposite-facing gates on quickdraws before?

You guys are unbelievable.

I can't think of a time sport climbing where the direction on the gate mattered even a little bit. I can't even think of a time that I even noticed the gate facing one way or another.

It's there, clip it, move on with life.

Wait. Are you trying to take all the mystique out of sprot climbing? Next you'll be telling me that I won't instantly fall off the wall & die if I backclip.

You guys are unbelievable.

I can't think of a time sport climbing where the direction on the gate mattered even a little bit. I can't even think of a time that I even noticed the gate facing one way or another.

It's there, clip it, move on with life.

Dunno, I have to physically try to backclip. I'd imagine to continously backclip you'd be so absurdly uncoordinated that you'd more than likely have to get rescued long before you started the route.

if you have trouble clipping the biner/bold when it is facing the "wrong" way you're doing it wrong. Sport climbing is about climbing, not about clipping. if the clipping is holding you back, you got some practicing to do.

He's still using ASCII graphics to illustrate a point. If he's as behind the times in his climbing as he is with computers he's probably still using military webbing and a hemp rope. You can't expect him to be able to clip.

Ouch, AB! I spend 45 minutes typing and previewing a graphic on my Tandy Color Computer with chiclet keyboard and you caught the hidden code that said, "I wish I could learn to clip bolts and quit depending on my trusty toilet plunger suction cams."

'''''' ^
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'======

I was just looking at some gear on a website

Dunno, I have to physically try to backclip. I'd imagine to continously backclip you'd be so absurdly uncoordinated that you'd more than likely have to get rescued long before you started the route.

the last time i was out at wall of confusion, i saw a girl leading up a .10ish thing and had the first three draws backclipped and was trying really hard to backclip the fourth. and then she took an upside down fall. thankfully the draws didnt unclip, but it was terrifying enough to watch.

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How do people actually flip over like that? It makes sense if you hit something or get caught in the rope but I've seen people just start to fall and flip right over. seems like something that's easy to avoid.

How do people actually flip over like that? It makes sense if you hit something or get caught in the rope but I've seen people just start to fall and flip right over. seems like something that's easy to avoid.