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chrish22
Sep 1, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Forgive me if this wound up in the wrong forum. I'm 90% sure that I'm going to spend the last half of September and the beginning half of October by myself at the Red. I'm fairly certain I'd be able to find partners to climb with on the weekdays if I'm nice enough (please enlighten me if I'm wrong), however I only have a 60M rope. I've heard from numerous people that a lot of climbs at the Red end up in the 100+ft range. Will a 60M rope work out or are all the most popular climbs too tall for that? If anybody has ANY other essential Red beta I might need to know, such as roughly how many longer runners I might need, I'd appreciate it. I will have a Dixie Cragger with me. Thanks again.
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johnwesely
Sep 1, 2010, 4:15 PM
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chrish22 wrote: Forgive me if this wound up in the wrong forum. I'm 90% sure that I'm going to spend the last half of September and the beginning half of October by myself at the Red. I'm fairly certain I'd be able to find partners to climb with on the weekdays if I'm nice enough (please enlighten me if I'm wrong), however I only have a 60M rope. I've heard from numerous people that a lot of climbs at the Red end up in the 100+ft range. Will a 60M rope work out or are all the most popular climbs too tall for that? If anybody has ANY other essential Red beta I might need to know, such as roughly how many longer runners I might need, I'd appreciate it. I will have a Dixie Cragger with me. Thanks again. I have done hundreds of climbs at the Red and have never needed a 70 meter rope. If you are climbing routes in the madness caves then you might need one. If you are sport climbing, you should be fine with regular quickdraws. The Dixie Cragger's atlas does not even have the Red in it.
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lena_chita
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Sep 1, 2010, 6:25 PM
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+1 on John's point about 60m rope. I definitely wouldn't worry about it, esp, if this is your first time at the Red. There are so many routes that can be done with a 60m rope that staying away from the few that require longer rope is no loss. (And if you REALLY want to do a 100+ ft sport climbs at the 'lode with a 60m rope, just don't be a wimp and take a whip instead of clipping an anchor. Or maybe skip the last clip and the anchors... In most cases that would work to get you to the ground with 60 m. Disclaimer: climbing is dangerous, falling is dangerous, and all that... Alternative approach: find a partner who has a 70m rope-- or buy on at Miguel's.) If you are planning on sport climbing, you would hardly ever need long runnners. Almost everything is doable with a standard set of quickdraws. But if you have a few long runners -- bring them, why not? A couple would be enough. If you are trad climbing... gee, just bring everything you've got. The runners aren't going to weigh you down that much, will they? Get a new RRG guidebook -- or the iPhone App. You are right about being able to find partners mid-week.
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chrish22
Sep 1, 2010, 9:04 PM
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johnwesely wrote: The Dixie Cragger's atlas does not even have the Red in it. lol good to know. Thanks to you and Lena.
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RadarLove
Sep 2, 2010, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2009
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The Red River Gorge Rock Climbs guide by Ray Ellington is a really good guide, and they have a new edition out this year. I just got my copy in the mail yesterday and am looking forward to leafing through it tonight. I borrowed the previous edition last year when I went, and thought it was awesome. Definitely worth the money. I'll be at RRG later this month. Not sure when you'll be there. The Rocktoberfest should be going on when you're there, so you'll be in good company (but it'll be crowded!). Not sure what level you're looking to climb at, so I can't really recommend any specific walls/climbs. Where are you staying?
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chrish22
Sep 3, 2010, 6:45 PM
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Radar, I think I'll be leaving around the 15th or 17th of September and staying through Rocktoberfest. Sounds like fun to me. I won't mind a bit of a crowd if I'm there for a bit previous to it. I was going to stay at Miguel's. I was under the impression that that was pretty much THE place to stay if you go to the Red. Open to other ideas though. Looking to climb as much as possible from 5.10b/c up to trying hard 11's/easy 12's.
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steinmethod
Sep 7, 2010, 7:16 PM
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Miguel's is a great place to stay. You shouldn't have any problem finding a partner. Check out the online guide book at http://www.redriverclimbing.com/.
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