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Using Uni Core technology in big wall ropes?
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jt512


Mar 4, 2011, 9:03 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Using Uni Core technology in big wall ropes? [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
i assumed that a ropes impact force would actually rise with age, as it looses elasticity...but i dont actually know. i'd be curious to see that...

Their impact force does rise with use, just wondering if some brands rise quicker then others with use. Not only would elasticity be a factor, but I'm guessing (maybe wrong) that different types of weaves or twists in the core may contribute to a faster increase in impact forces with use.

There are huge differences among brands in the rate of loss of elasticity with use. Just about the worst rope I ever owned was a Roca Free. I bought it for it's advertised low impact force. It was indeed low at first, but after only a few days the impact force became noticeably higher, and I retired it to TR only service after only about a month. On the other end of the spectrum are Beal ropes, which seem to retain their elasticity quite well.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 4, 2011, 9:03 PM)


JimTitt


Mar 4, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Re: [jt512] Using Uni Core technology in big wall ropes? [In reply to]
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IŽll agree with all that, IŽve an older Roca 9mm which hasnŽt had a lot of use, mainly as a shunt line but certainly is nice and solid now.

My working rope is a 10mm Mammut which seems to be about the same stretch as my statics these days, impressively robust though!

The two Tendon lead ropes I use seem even stretchier than when I got them which is curious since Tendon were originally Roca.

Looking at them I reckon the tighter and harder the sheath the harder they become, Beal ropes are notorious for gear testing because of the softness of the sheath and somewhat lacking robustness.

Compared with the hawser-laids of days gone by they are all like a feather bed!


moose_droppings


Mar 4, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Re: [jt512] Using Uni Core technology in big wall ropes? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
i assumed that a ropes impact force would actually rise with age, as it looses elasticity...but i dont actually know. i'd be curious to see that...

Their impact force does rise with use, just wondering if some brands rise quicker then others with use. Not only would elasticity be a factor, but I'm guessing (maybe wrong) that different types of weaves or twists in the core may contribute to a faster increase in impact forces with use.

There are huge differences among brands in the rate of loss of elasticity with use. Just about the worst rope I ever owned was a Roca Free. I bought it for it's advertised low impact force. It was indeed low at first, but after only a few days the impact force became noticeably higher, and I retired it to TR only service after only about a month. On the other end of the spectrum are Beal ropes, which seem to retain their elasticity quite well.

Jay

Jay, the reason I'm inquiring about this is that maybe it's not fair to say not to buy an NE rope because of it's reported high impact force when new. Is it possible that a NE rope may have a lower impact force after a small time frame of use compared to other ropes with equal amount of use that had reported lower forces to start with? That's why I had asked if there had been any studies with data on this aspect of different rope brands earlier. If this is true, I'd rather have a rope that will retain a smaller impact force over time for my money.

I really like my NE ropes for durability and supple hand, and they still seem to give softer catches than other ropes that well used.

It's purely a biased opinion of NE ropes that makes me ask.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Mar 4, 2011, 10:55 PM)

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