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Scary bolt hangars
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Jasonidge1


Jun 22, 2011, 2:15 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2011
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Scary bolt hangars  (North_America: Dominican_Republic: North: Fronton_Beach)
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This was probably one of the scariest places I have climbed. Its right on the coastline and doesn't get much traffic. DO NOT GO HERE WITHOUT A LOCAL!!! Most of the bolt hangars are rusty (I saw some with flakes of rust coming off) and wouldn't trust any bolt besides a quality epoxy bolt. There are stories of people taking falls and having every bolt rip out. The locals will try to hustle you for transportation but thats common throughout the entire country. I would recommend bringing some rum and sunscreen because the beach is fantastic.

I have climbed in Europe, North America and here. This area got an A for scenery and an F for safety. Hopefully the locals clean this place up... oh wait they have no money to do so... hmmm


drclimber


Feb 6, 2012, 2:03 AM
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Re: [Jasonidge1] Scary bolt hangars [In reply to]
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Youre right. Many bolts are useless, so its imperative that, if someone wants to climb at Fronton or nearby areas, it needs to contact the local climbing community to be briefed about the conditions of the routes...


cashmang


Jun 22, 2015, 9:31 PM
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Re: [Jasonidge1] Scary bolt hangars [In reply to]
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I think this place has great potential to become a mecca destination for American climbers during the winter months when it's too cold to climb in the US. It's a short plane right from most places along the eastern seaboard.

It just needs some love (and money). I have been thinking about launching a gofundme campaign to raise money to import a bunch of skilled routesetters to put up a bunch of routes with Ti glue-ins, put together a guidebook, establish a log of which routes were bolted with what hardwear and when, and even open up a couple of climbing shops with guide service for the locals to run.

Those locals "hustling" are piss poor folks just trying to get by and feed their families. Anything that could be done to breathe some life into the local economy would make the locals very grateful.


6pacfershur


Jun 25, 2015, 12:38 AM
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Re: [Jasonidge1] Scary bolt hangars [In reply to]
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Jasonidge1 wrote:
This was probably one of the scariest places I have climbed.......Most of the bolt hangars are rusty (I saw some with flakes of rust coming off) and wouldn't trust any bolt besides a quality epoxy bolt. There are stories of people taking falls and having every bolt rip out......

i anxiously await jacque's insight to this situation....


sbaclimber


Jun 25, 2015, 11:00 AM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Scary bolt hangars [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
Jasonidge1 wrote:
This was probably one of the scariest places I have climbed.......Most of the bolt hangars are rusty (I saw some with flakes of rust coming off) and wouldn't trust any bolt besides a quality epoxy bolt. There are stories of people taking falls and having every bolt rip out......

i anxiously await jacque's insight to this situation....
I wouldn't wait too anxiously. He's already had 4yrs to weigh in...

 

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