|
tugboat
Jul 28, 2011, 7:29 AM
Post #51 of 73
(6720 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
In reply to: so they dont have a fisherman's tie-off
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Jul 28, 2011, 7:38 AM
Post #52 of 73
(6716 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
In reply to: If you want to horrify yourself tie the ends of two ropes together (like for rapping) and tuck BOTH ends back exactly as in your picture. Then pull the two ropes apart, you donīt need to put this one on the tester! And yes, it was fatal.
Jim, your not actually saying someone did that are you!?....crazy.
Reminds of climbing with a fellow whos 'hike down' shoes came flying off his carabiner/gear loop. I laughingly said "what did you do?....tie those on with a slip not?..."... unfazed, he replied, "...ah,...yes,...i did." He died climbing several years later.
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Jul 29, 2011, 6:43 AM
Post #53 of 73
(6678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
Setup gear today to do "rabbit ears" and "yosemite finish"....hopefully get them busted for ya tomorrow. Then on to the dorkalette and original equallet. Had to get "Tugs" eating again... he decided the only food he wants now is the most expensive....wouldn't you know it!
|
|
|
|
|
sandstone
Jul 29, 2011, 1:37 PM
Post #54 of 73
(6664 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2004
Posts: 324
|
Best wishes for Tugs, and thanks for your testing.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jul 29, 2011, 2:43 PM
Post #55 of 73
(6657 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
Hey Tugboat,
If you have time I would love to get a test on a standard two-point Triplette using 7mm cord, tied with overhands, and with two biners at the master point.
For reference here's a couple of pictures:
The second set of knots are not needed in this example:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....cgi?query=triplette
This example has the left side split to two points, which isn't needed:
Also, sorry to hear about your puppy dog. Hang in there!
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 29, 2011, 2:48 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jul 29, 2011, 3:10 PM
Post #56 of 73
(6650 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
tugboat wrote: Just so people looking for testing know... I do have time to spare these days for testing,... however my poor old dog, Tugboat, is living day by day with cancer. Generally, with medication, and lots of treats and love he has mostly good days still. However, as you could appreciate, since he is my only family and best friend, he comes first. Sometimes, out of the blue, i get tied up for a few days, full time, taking care of his needs. So tests might get put on hold all of a sudden for a couple days. Hope you all understand. But, be reassured, all requests will get carried out..... cause when it comes to 'bustin' stuff, i just can't resist  
Thanks for taking the time to pull-test. It's what the lab is all about. I think some problems could be avoided this time by not having you on the "staff". People seemed to get the idea that it was RC.com testing gear rather then a dude who happened to be a mod doing it. I remember one thread where someone asked for rc.com's official statement re: aliens.
Have fun bustin' stuff!
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 29, 2011, 3:53 PM
Post #57 of 73
(6644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
tugboat wrote: cracklover wrote: tugboat wrote: Yup....no prob. It was fun. "Next...."? Hi Tugboat, you still have time to kill? I have some fixed draws I pulled (and replaced) from a sport climb after discovering how worn they were. I'd love to see just how much they could have held. GO yup....no prob... i can bust em. ill msg you my mailing address if you want them checked.
Okay, the two dogbones are in the mail. USPS says about two weeks.
Maybe take a pic of each and post it here, and we can take bets on the breaking point of each?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Jul 29, 2011, 8:31 PM
Post #58 of 73
(6625 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
acorneau wrote: Hey Tugboat, If you have time I would love to get a test on a standard two-point Triplette using 7mm cord, tied with overhands, and with two biners at the master point. For reference here's a couple of pictures: The second set of knots are not needed in this example: http://www.rockclimbing.com/....cgi?query=triplette This example has the left side split to two points, which isn't needed: [image]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/8/22/203749_31470_L.jpg[/image] Also, sorry to hear about your puppy dog. Hang in there!
Added to the list!
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Jul 29, 2011, 8:33 PM
Post #59 of 73
(6623 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
cracklover wrote: tugboat wrote: cracklover wrote: tugboat wrote: Yup....no prob. It was fun. "Next...."? Hi Tugboat, you still have time to kill? I have some fixed draws I pulled (and replaced) from a sport climb after discovering how worn they were. I'd love to see just how much they could have held. GO yup....no prob... i can bust em. ill msg you my mailing address if you want them checked. Okay, the two dogbones are in the mail. USPS says about two weeks. Maybe take a pic of each and post it here, and we can take bets on the breaking point of each? GO
Cool. they will be video'd like the other 'pulls'.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 29, 2011, 8:50 PM
Post #61 of 73
(6607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Tugboat, thanks for all the work breaking stuff.
For the sake of clarity, maybe you could start a well titled thread for each new test so that discussions and searches will be more relevant to each particular project?
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Jul 30, 2011, 12:05 AM
Post #62 of 73
(6591 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
edge wrote: Tugboat, thanks for all the work breaking stuff. For the sake of clarity, maybe you could start a well titled thread for each new test so that discussions and searches will be more relevant to each particular project? Cheers!
makes sense. will do.
|
|
|
|
|
dagibbs
Aug 4, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #63 of 73
(6512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
|
Can you do repeated lower-force loads?
I don't know if they have been tested before (probably?) but the simple overhand knot for joining two ropes for a rappel. Probably figure 8" tails or so.
A rappel is going to be far more of a repeated low (body weight plus a bit) load, rather than the high load of a fall.
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Aug 5, 2011, 2:24 AM
Post #64 of 73
(6487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
dagibbs wrote: Can you do repeated lower-force loads? I don't know if they have been tested before (probably?) but the simple overhand knot for joining two ropes for a rappel. Probably figure 8" tails or so. A rappel is going to be far more of a repeated low (body weight plus a bit) load, rather than the high load of a fall.
Hey daggibs. The low and high loading of overhand, fig eight etc on rappel have been thoroughly investigated on the web over years. As roy-jr-hinkley has pointed out. He is quite right. Given how long the setups take and my dog's illness, its probably not one i would get a around too currently. Do a search on "rappel accident/death" posted on rec.climbing (news) or 'tradgirl.com or at this website: very reasearched topic.....
goodluck.... any tests that you can't find covered or add further knowledge i could consider. Thanks for you inquiry.
my research on this topic has led me to wanting to see the "flipping or rolling" inside out of the overhand not etc when tied for rappel in certain setups. If i do i will let you know. But it is sort of a dead topic here.
peace,
(This post was edited by tugboat on Aug 5, 2011, 2:58 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Aug 5, 2011, 3:39 AM
Post #65 of 73
(6473 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
oh...and as regards "repeated" low loading testing; this is a very useful test in harnesses, gear, etc, since this is generally the usage they see. And low repeated loading can often be the variable that is more of a problem than high loading....especially in my field of work.
On that note,... i looked into a "cyclic loading tester" when putting my business together. My inquiries found that one would need a pneumatic setup that at the time wasn't reasonable for my facility or budget.
So, "no",....i can't do repeated low load testing that would give significant numeric results eg hundreds or thousands of pulls.
|
|
|
|
|
miklaw
Aug 5, 2011, 9:43 AM
Post #66 of 73
(6454 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2004
Posts: 99
|
Real "SN" tests (stress vs number of cycles to failure) require thousands (or millions) of cycles and lots of specimens. A quick and dirty alternative is something I developed (and probably many before me) , The Block Test. If you know the failure load, start at 10% of that, give it 5 cycles, go up 5% in load and give it another 5 cycles, etc etc till it breaks.
We did a lot of tests on fixed anchors like this.
http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/display/thelab/Fatigue+testing
|
|
Attachments:
|
fig%2031.jpg
(50.4 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Aug 10, 2011, 4:03 AM
Post #67 of 73
(6395 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
Work has picked up,....so request are on hold for a week or so. But still on the burner.
Thanks all.
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Aug 10, 2011, 7:32 PM
Post #68 of 73
(6375 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
tugboat wrote: Work has picked up,....so request are on hold for a week or so. But still on the burner. Thanks all.
|
|
|
|
|
scrapedape
Aug 26, 2011, 3:00 PM
Post #69 of 73
(6208 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
|
How about testing of triaxial loading of carabiners?
We all know this is "bad," but do we know how bad it is?
This has been causing some friction over here in another thread, in which I have been, shamefully, a little too engaged: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
I would imagine testing triaxial loading would require some kind of customized testing rig to be set up, which might require some thought.
|
|
|
|
|
tugboat
Aug 26, 2011, 8:11 PM
Post #70 of 73
(6194 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2011
Posts: 106
|
Ill check it out when work lets off the gas pedal a bit. Right now its pinned to the floor..... which is good...but very tired.
Cracklover's slings are next up to be broken. Then ill go from there.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Sorry to all those waiting on testing requests....but when work starts to fly i gotta run with it.
peace
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Sep 9, 2011, 3:36 PM
Post #71 of 73
(6019 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
tugboat wrote: Ill check it out when work lets off the gas pedal a bit. Right now its pinned to the floor..... which is good...but very tired. Cracklover's slings are next up to be broken. Then ill go from there. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry to all those waiting on testing requests....but when work starts to fly i gotta run with it. peace
For those of you interested in checking out the dogbones I cleaned off a route - here's a link to the new thread (I only just noticed the new thread the other day): http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2529000
GO
|
|
|
|
|
dindolino32
Oct 16, 2011, 5:21 PM
Post #72 of 73
(5779 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2008
Posts: 155
|
Hey tugboat, I have a possibly new pull test project for you. I searched for this but using key words "fig 8 and carabiner" tend to give a ton of results so sorry if this has been tested already.
I have seen a couple of people at a nearby gym clip a biner IN the fig 8 knot to ease in untying the knot if a lead fall takes place. I never have practiced this as it would seem to compromise the integrity of the knot. Also, I am not sure whether it is clipped in the proximal loop or the distal loop compared to the harness tie in point. I assume the proximal would definitely be a problem. Any info would be nice to see.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Oct 25, 2011, 8:49 PM
Post #73 of 73
(5610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
dindolino32 wrote: I have seen a couple of people at a nearby gym clip a biner IN the fig 8 knot to ease in untying the knot if a lead fall takes place.
I've seen people put a biner in knots while rigging a top-rope anchor but never in someone's tie-in knot.
What if something like a quickdraw catches on the spare biner? Sounds sketchy to me.
|
|
|
|
|
|
