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madam
Jul 3, 2014, 11:54 AM
Post #26 of 48
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hey Scott,
thanks for your answer. We wanna go October/November...apprx. for 30 days. we don't need hotel at all:) Actually starting to think more about RRG as well...I guess its so huge there has to be some verticals as well as somebody already stated above (not only steep stuff).
Is there any other possibility of camping than at Miguel's? (free camping would be amazing) I am not bothered with the price at Miguel's but more with many people. I guess it can get quite crowded right? October/November.
thanks again...
adam
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rsmillbern
Jul 3, 2014, 12:12 PM
Post #27 of 48
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madam wrote: hey Scott, thanks for your answer. We wanna go October/November...apprx. for 30 days. we don't need hotel at all:) Actually starting to think more about RRG as well...I guess its so huge there has to be some verticals as well as somebody already stated above (not only steep stuff). Is there any other possibility of camping than at Miguel's? (free camping would be amazing) I am not bothered with the price at Miguel's but more with many people. I guess it can get quite crowded right? October/November. thanks again... adam
Oct/Nov should be nice weather. Miguel's can be a bit loud sometimes. I have stayed at a couple other campgrounds, but the names escape me right now. I will have a look when I get home.
The Red has some variety for sure. I have seen the guidbook at Globetrotter (Germany), so I figure it should be pretty easy to source here. If you have trouble let me know and I could pick one up and ship it to you, or I know we will being in the Fichtelgebirge a few times before then (Not sure how far away from there you are).
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madam
Jul 3, 2014, 12:22 PM
Post #28 of 48
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:)) thanks...
fichtelgebirge...well I live in Prague, so its not too far away. Actually just this weekend I am going to Frankenjura...but don't bother with any shipping. btw: I guess we already had a conversation on my blog about frankenjura dry crags...:)
adam
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rsmillbern
Jul 3, 2014, 12:28 PM
Post #29 of 48
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Yes indeed. We were there 2 weeks ago over the long weekend. A little climbing there and in the Frankenjura.
I will be in Weißenstadt more this year taking care of a family house and hitting crags in the area. I've not been to Prague, but I hope to make at least a day trip this year as it is only about 3 hours away.
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sungam
Jul 3, 2014, 1:08 PM
Post #30 of 48
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rsmillbern wrote: Miguel's can be a bit loud sometimes.
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rocknice2
Jul 3, 2014, 1:37 PM
Post #31 of 48
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All the places you mentioned have a variety of climbing at varying angles of rock. Including RRG although no slab but the vertical stuff can be quite easy.
There is almost free camping in the Daniel Boone Forest in the RRG [$5/week/car] but a car is mandatory if you stay there. If you go sans auto then you must stay in the loudest campground you can find.
Best bet is to rent a car. It may work out to find rides but it may not. To get the best air fares prices check out different airports. The major hubs will be cheapest and rental car prices vary from city to city. Miami being the cheapest, but who wants to go there. Gas is way cheaper in the US as well.
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madam
Jul 3, 2014, 1:42 PM
Post #32 of 48
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rocknice2 wrote: All the places you mentioned have a variety of climbing at varying angles of rock. Including RRG although no slab but the vertical stuff can be quite easy. There is almost free camping in the Daniel Boone Forest in the RRG [$5/week/car] but a car is mandatory if you stay there. If you go sans auto then you must stay in the loudest campground you can find. Best bet is to rent a car. It may work out to find rides but it may not. To get the best air fares prices check out different airports. The major hubs will be cheapest and rental car prices vary from city to city. Miami being the cheapest, but who wants to go there. Gas is way cheaper in the US as well.
hmmmm....if we could only split the costs among more than just 2 people. We will see may be we convince more friends to come along:)
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satch
Jul 3, 2014, 7:52 PM
Post #33 of 48
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If you stayed at the AAC campground at the New, you could rent bikes when you needed them, or buy used ones and resell at the end of your trip - much cheaper than a car. You could get to all the climbs you could ever do and the town easily. The longer trip would be to the grocery store (3 miles or so).
There are two bike shops in Fayetteville. You could check http://newriverbikes.com
The climbing areas at the Red are more scattered, so a car is more of an issue there.
There is some primitive camping along the river, but it could be sketchy: http://www.nps.gov/...isit/campgrounds.htm
Personally, I wouldn't recommend it, it would be a shame to have a bad experience here in WV. You would be forced to bike a much longer way and you would be leaving your camp unprotected. I've had kayak gear stolen by local fisherman down by the river bank - have you seen the movie Deliverance? The AAC campground is a better way to go. It's not that crowded and its climbers staying there.
(This post was edited by satch on Jul 3, 2014, 8:07 PM)
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madam
Jul 4, 2014, 7:03 AM
Post #34 of 48
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Hey Satch,
thanks for the tip with the bike rentals. I just wrote them to ask how much would be to rent some bikes for the time we would be there.
...and thanks for the tip with camping...
adam
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brinosaur
Jul 5, 2014, 2:46 AM
Post #35 of 48
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I love the New, and it has some of the best sport climbing in the US. That being said, the New without a car would be challenging, especially during the week. Arranging for rides during the weekend would be easy, though. Keep in mind:
-The crags closest to the AAC (Bridge, Junkyard) are nearly 100% trad.
-Endless is badass, but it would be more of a trek by bike. Also, you really need to be climbing hard 5.11 and 5.12 to enjoy it as a sport crag. Ditto for most of the gorge proper.
-The best high concentration of quality bolted 10s, 11s, and 12s are at Summersville or on the Meadow, which would be one hell of a haul from the AAC, Chestnut, or other campsites close to downtown.
Red Rocks is probably your best option. You can arrange for a (very short!) ride to the RR campground, which is always full of climbers during climbing season -- even during weekdays. It's easy to arrange for carpools or rides to the various crags, provided you are willing to help with gas, camping, or beer fees. Plus, you'll find more variety of sport climbs in the 10s and 11s than you would at the New.
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madam
Jul 7, 2014, 1:52 PM
Post #36 of 48
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brinosaur wrote: I love the New, and it has some of the best sport climbing in the US. That being said, the New without a car would be challenging, especially during the week. Arranging for rides during the weekend would be easy, though. Keep in mind: -The crags closest to the AAC (Bridge, Junkyard) are nearly 100% trad. -Endless is badass, but it would be more of a trek by bike. Also, you really need to be climbing hard 5.11 and 5.12 to enjoy it as a sport crag. Ditto for most of the gorge proper. -The best high concentration of quality bolted 10s, 11s, and 12s are at Summersville or on the Meadow, which would be one hell of a haul from the AAC, Chestnut, or other campsites close to downtown. Red Rocks is probably your best option. You can arrange for a (very short!) ride to the RR campground, which is always full of climbers during climbing season -- even during weekdays. It's easy to arrange for carpools or rides to the various crags, provided you are willing to help with gas, camping, or beer fees. Plus, you'll find more variety of sport climbs in the 10s and 11s than you would at the New.
Thanks brinosaur,
we are more and more considering renting a car...also another friend is probably going to join us = share the costs. If it ends up like that my head will be probably blown away by all the possibilities we would have:)....I mean all the places/climbs we might visit during our stay....
adam
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lena_chita
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Jul 7, 2014, 3:33 PM
Post #37 of 48
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madam wrote: Hi kennoyce, thanks for your opinion. Well, after some more internet-digging I have found out that New Rover Gorge is close to Charleston which has airport (btw:return ticket from Prague-Charleston is apprx. 800$ which is not that bad) and I have found some train/bus which should take us to NRG. Then we would probably camp on the free camping near "some" dam. If anyone can "approve" this idea, it would be helpful. We are not decided yet, this is just one possibility. Thanks anyway for the Red Rocks elaboration:) adam
If you are without a car, you might be better off camping at AAC campground. While you would have to pay for that one (not much, about $5-$7/night, depending on whether you are a member of AAC or AF or none), you would be more likely to meet other climbers who would be willing to give you a ride. the camping at the dam is free, but I wouldn't count on meeting other climbers there on weekdays, day in and day out.
IMO Ten Sleep, Red Rocks, NRG, and RRG are hard to manage without a car, because the crags are spaced out.
It is about 30 minute drive from the dam to Endless Wall at the NRG, for example. Or from AAC campground to Summersville Lake.
At the Red, it is 20-25 minutes to drive from Miguel's to the Southern Region, 15-20 minutes drive to Muir Valley, 15-30 minutes to various places Northern Gorge.
Red Rocks campground is couple miles from the first pullout or Calico Hills, but more like 5-6 miles to 2nd pullout, even more to Sandstone quarry or any of the multipitch stuff.
Ten Sleep will be ~8-15 miles from camping spots to climbing.
Yes, you could probably find rides from other climbers at all of these locations, but somehow or another you WILL need a car to get to the crags, unless you plan on 2-4 hours of walking every day, even with restricting your climbing to only the most accessible crags.
In Maple Canyon or Smith Rock, you need a car to get TO your camping destination, but, once there, you don't need a car on a daily basis, all crags are within walking distance from camping.
Honestly, given the airline ticket cost that you are willing to spend, and the fact that there are 2-3 of you, renting a car might not be so bad in the grand scheme of things. Assuming thatyou are over 25, you might spend $700-750 on a cheap car rental for a month. Divided by 3... not that bad?
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madam
Jul 7, 2014, 3:45 PM
Post #38 of 48
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...thanks lena_chita,
especially for all the numbers nicely put together. I think the best option for us at the moment is to get somebody else going with us -> share the costs not only in two people -> rent a car -> may be visit more places than we actually planned...
adam
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marc801
Jul 7, 2014, 4:22 PM
Post #39 of 48
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madam wrote: ...may be visit more places than we actually planned...
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sbaclimber
Jul 7, 2014, 9:55 PM
Post #40 of 48
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marc801 wrote: madam wrote: ...may be visit more places than we actually planned... Take some care in planning if you intend to do this. Other visitors have fallen into the trap of trying to do too much coupled with underestimation of distances in the States and wound up spending lots of time in a car. I recall one visitor I met in the Gunks - based on his limited map reading skills and thinking in metric, he thought the trip from there to Boulder Colorado was about an 8+ hour drive. 
(even in metric, unless you are talking the german autobahn, free of traffic, [edit: plus a very very fast car!], you aren't making it in 8hrs!)
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 8, 2014, 10:07 PM)
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rsmillbern
Jul 10, 2014, 8:55 AM
Post #41 of 48
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sbaclimber wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: ...may be visit more places than we actually planned... Take some care in planning if you intend to do this. Other visitors have fallen into the trap of trying to do too much coupled with underestimation of distances in the States and wound up spending lots of time in a car. I recall one visitor I met in the Gunks - based on his limited map reading skills and thinking in metric, he thought the trip from there to Boulder Colorado was about an 8+ hour drive. HAHAHA!!! Sorry...having made the drive from Boulder to Buffalo, I just had to laugh at that. (even in metric, unless you are talking the german autobahn, free of traffic, [edit: plus a very very fast car!], you aren't making it in 8hrs!)
I think you might need more than a fast car... It usually took us 18 hours from Raleigh, NC to Kansas City, add almost 8 more hours to get to Colorado...
Even on the autobahn, with no traffic that would be a feat!
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sbaclimber
Jul 10, 2014, 10:22 AM
Post #42 of 48
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rsmillbern wrote: sbaclimber wrote: marc801 wrote: madam wrote: ...may be visit more places than we actually planned... Take some care in planning if you intend to do this. Other visitors have fallen into the trap of trying to do too much coupled with underestimation of distances in the States and wound up spending lots of time in a car. I recall one visitor I met in the Gunks - based on his limited map reading skills and thinking in metric, he thought the trip from there to Boulder Colorado was about an 8+ hour drive. HAHAHA!!! Sorry...having made the drive from Boulder to Buffalo, I just had to laugh at that. (even in metric, unless you are talking the german autobahn, free of traffic, [edit: plus a very very fast car!], you aren't making it in 8hrs!) I think you might need more than a fast car... It usually took us 18 hours from Raleigh, NC to Kansas City, add almost 8 more hours to get to Colorado... Even on the autobahn, with no traffic that would be a feat!
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 10, 2014, 10:38 AM)
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jb2100
Jul 10, 2014, 3:32 PM
Post #43 of 48
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Forget the sport climbing! Fly into El Paso, take a taxi out to Hueco Tanks, stay in the park and walk to the boulders every morning. Problem solved.
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camhead
Jul 12, 2014, 5:36 PM
Post #44 of 48
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Smith would be the easiest place to climb without a car. The camping is literally right next to the approach trails.
The Red would be do-able if you traded belays, beer, money, for rides with other campers. The New would be do-able, but not if you camped at Summersville Dam; that would be one of the WORST places to be stuck without a car.
All in all, if it is three of you, just rent a car.
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camhead
Jul 12, 2014, 6:45 PM
Post #45 of 48
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brinosaur wrote: -The best high concentration of quality bolted 10s, 11s, and 12s are at Summersville or on the Meadow, which would be one hell of a haul from the AAC, Chestnut, or other campsites close to downtown.
It would actually not be too bad to bike to Kaymoor from the AAC campground, and if they camped at Cantrell's it would be insanely easy.
But, that said, it seems to be the consensus just to get a car. Most climbers' campgrounds, the locals would quickly get very sick of a group of Euros bumming rides everyday.
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madam
Jul 14, 2014, 6:25 AM
Post #46 of 48
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Hello guys,
at first I would like to thank you all for helpful advice...
In the end there is going to be at least three of us so we will rent a car:)
keep climbing, adam
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satch
Jul 14, 2014, 6:50 PM
Post #47 of 48
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Sounds like a smart decision. Watch your speed limit around both Summersville and Fayetteville, WV.
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dagibbs
Jul 31, 2014, 5:05 PM
Post #48 of 48
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As has become clear -- for most sport climbing destinations in the USA, you will need (and now plan to have) a car.
You mention Canada -- and this is mostly true for Canada as well.
One sport destination in North America where you don't need a car, though, is El Potrero Chico, in Mexico. Lots of camping within an easy walk of many to most of the climbs, and also a fairly easy walk in to town for picking up supplies, etc.
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