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bcmtngrrrl
May 3, 2002, 2:56 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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After an hour wasted on poor directions in the climbing guide, we finally found the start of the Bulletheads. Only to climb the first pitch, (center sunshine crack, or whatever it's called) and find ourselves in a cave, not knowing if we should go left, or right. No way of seeing where we'd end up either way, and no direction in the book. Half the day wasted, we left and headed to the Bluffs. Anyone climbed this? Can you give some better direction, so we can make another attempt? (When the rain finally stops again)
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smellydude
May 4, 2002, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
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Yeah i have climbed it and have somepictures on it. Well actually climbed both chimneys and trying to remember which one is which. After climbing the first pitch you "walk" up and into a dark groove.(does this sound familiar) Then you kinda climb up and left, shimmying your way up the rock through the darkness to an opening and the next belay. The final pitch is a usually wet but fun chimney.
here is a picture of my friend Mike climbing the 3rd pitch.
http://pincher.homestead.com/sunshinechimneycentre.html
check out my website on squamish climbing. www.sickhard.com
cheers Dave
hope i helped but if i looked at a guide I could probably remember more. Anymore questions just holler;)
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bcmtngrrrl
May 5, 2002, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the info smelly. That all sounds exactly right. I shoulda known, my instincts said right, so immediately I shoulda known it was left. he he. Cool site you have goin there too.
Well, looks like piss pouring rain today, so I guess we'll try it again, weather permitting next weekend.
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smellydude
May 6, 2002, 9:14 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
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Yeah had us guessing too in the dark there. Although it has been at least 5 years since I climbed the route. The bulletheads or at least the chimneys stay wet for awhile so get ready for some dirty climbing if you do head backin a week. Old fashioned grovelling but fun.
TTYL Dave
[ This Message was edited by: smellydude on 2002-05-06 02:15 ]
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