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d.vonk
Nov 28, 2007, 6:26 AM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2007
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Im looking for a lead partner for the gym in edmonton! currently at 5.10 looking to go hard all winter...
D.
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erick
Nov 29, 2007, 4:25 AM
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is that vertically inclined you're talking about? I was just there for my first time last night and got my belay test. I was initially planning on doing the lead test right away too, but they didn't have anyone on staff that was qualified to test that.
But seriously, i was so disappointed. I was onsighting 10a's pretty consistent and redpointing up to 10b/c (lame, i know) on rock at summer's end, but i'm having a really hard time switching over to the gym. Every climb on the plastic just doesn't feel right. totally not used to looking for the pieces corresponding to my tape-coloured route. it was so terrible! 5.8 was it for me last night on TR. not a very positive experience. where has the warm dry rock gone? 
i'm still gonna check it out a few more times and hopefully get faster finding my route's holds. once i can actually do 10's again, i'll let you know and maybe i'll be cool enough to entertain the thought of getting my lead card in the world of plastic climbing. 
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d.vonk
Nov 29, 2007, 5:38 AM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2007
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awesome eric. yea plastic to rock rock to plastic is a hard trans but as alberta's winter what option do you really have...
i am completly content climbing 5.8's no worries. i ahvent lead anyhting in the gym yet cause i dont have a partner... get ahold of me il climb usally anytime...
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the_climber
Nov 29, 2007, 8:45 PM
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d.vonk wrote: awesome eric. yea plastic to rock rock to plastic is a hard trans but as alberta's winter what option do you really have...
Ummm, Ice.
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d.vonk
Nov 29, 2007, 9:44 PM
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ya of course ice. but iv onl started climbing ce isent till next winter at best.... for now its gym or trips.. unfortuanlly.. but im real excited for ice next winter,..
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macblaze
Dec 3, 2007, 2:13 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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erick wrote: is that vertically inclined you're talking about? I was just there for my first time last night and got my belay test. I was initially planning on doing the lead test right away too, but they didn't have anyone on staff that was qualified to test that. But seriously, i was so disappointed. I was onsighting 10a's pretty consistent and redpointing up to 10b/c (lame, i know) on rock at summer's end, but i'm having a really hard time switching over to the gym. Every climb on the plastic just doesn't feel right. totally not used to looking for the pieces corresponding to my tape-coloured route. it was so terrible! 5.8 was it for me last night on TR. not a very positive experience. where has the warm dry rock gone? i'm still gonna check it out a few more times and hopefully get faster finding my route's holds. once i can actually do 10's again, i'll let you know and maybe i'll be cool enough to entertain the thought of getting my lead card in the world of plastic climbing.
Hey...
Thanks again on the feedback about the Yam Trad course. We did it on our way out to Squamish and had a blast.
Don't worry about the plastic, you will get used to it. In my (admittedly uneducated) opinion, the routes at Virg tend to be a bit "hard." No that the moves are harder than outdoors, but because of all the tape and beta, I think they tend to be a bit more sustained. That and the grades are currently all over them map. That being said, once you get used to the walls, you'll be climbing higher, not lower than your outdoor grade.
Me and my regulars are there every Wednesday from 5-8 with our kids and we'd be happy to hand out a belay or two...
Bruce
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erick
Dec 3, 2007, 2:28 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2005
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do you have super-psycho-climber kids? last time i was there i was watching these two kids pulling off these absolutely sick boulder problems... holy man... they were inspirational!  I'll be back there this week. tuesday night for sure.
i'm so jealous you got to climb at squamish. i was just in vancouver last week and of course had to check it out. but it was pouring rain and pretty chilly, but even just walking around there and checking out the rock from the ground has convinced me that a trip back there in the spring is absolutely necessary.
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erick
Dec 10, 2007, 6:27 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2005
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do you by any chance know some other crazies by the name of tyler and mike? hahaha sooo crazy. i was just talking with ty tonight and he was saying you guys do tons of climbing and stuff. so i come back on here and see you have a facebook profile link, and lo and behold i believe it's you he was talking about.
i'll message you my phone # -- we'll have to get out to virg this week.
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