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jwakani
Jun 7, 2003, 8:56 PM
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Hi, I was looking through the newer guidebook (A Sport Climbers Guide ito Ontario Limestone - 1997) and I noticed that some of the grades don't match with the old guidebook. The new one seems to have bumped grades up 2 or 3 levels. What is up with the different grades and which book is more accurate?
Jon
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h0und
Jun 9, 2003, 4:14 PM
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The question is not "Which book is more accurate ?" Everybody grades climbs differently, unfortunate but true. Another possibility is that when the book was written the climbs were easier. Now that time has passed perhaps some holds are no longer there, fallen rocks or such making the climb(s) more difficult. So in my eyes there is no right or wrong in this case. I would say go climb it and find out yourself how hard or easy it is.
H0unD
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*thriller*
Deleted
Jun 9, 2003, 7:50 PM
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it's also partly bad editing. take the route "and the baby bear said..." at young's crag for example - 'the escarpment" rates the climb 5.10 a/b in the description, and simply 5.10 b in the topo, then in the 'sport climber's guide' the same authors rate the climb 5.10 c. i'm only climbing 5.8 or 5.9 right now anyways, but it's still confusing.
ian
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krillen
Jun 9, 2003, 8:01 PM
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For sport, the newer sport guide for the Escarpment is "fairly accurate", however the older book is pretty decent for trad. It was written from a trad standpoint so those grades "seem" to match up.
For sport, if you are REALLY worried about it, get both and average them.
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jwakani
Jun 9, 2003, 10:22 PM
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I'm not REALLY worried about it, but I was looking up a climb I did at Lionshead last summer called "Busted at Bedford" and it is listed as a 12a in the new book, and I believe it is a 10b in the old book, thats a huge difference. I was just wondering what it is, 10b or 12a?
Jon
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